Machine shops?

#1
I don't like my local machine shop but have a few heads that need valve jobs. What are your guys suggestions on machine shops that specialize in kart motors? I tried contacting NR racing but they no longer do it.
 
#2
Used to be to be a dealer/repair center you had to have the stuff to do all the repairs. Have you tried factory repair centers? A quick Google search should hook you up with the address of ones near you.
 
#4
Are these just stock heads that you are trying to freshen (if so just lap them) or are you wanting big valve ported heads? What does the rest of the engine look like?
 
#5
Are these just stock heads that you are trying to freshen (if so just lap them) or are you wanting big valve ported heads? What does the rest of the engine look like?[/QUOTE

No there new heads. There are very thin 45* cuts on the seats. These are new bare castings that have never been installed on a motor. I work graveyard tonight so I will try to take a picture of the seats tomorrow of a bare head and one I pulled off a new motor that has never been ran. On new motors like a BSP I just check valve seal and lap if needed. I was hoping to get a multi angle valve job done on a few heads as well. Was wanting 3 angle on seat and 2 on valve. I remember you once telling me best gains on head were fixing short side radius and then multi angle valve job
 
#6
BTW this is for torque motor builds. Trail bike stuff. Around 9.0 compression and ratio rockers with stock Cam on one motor and cl1 high torque Cam on the other. Stock Cam has .650 carburetor with 25/24 jt head and cl1 Cam motor has ut1 GX160 head 18cc with 26/23mm valves and cheep 22mm carburetor. Stock Cam motor is a large bore 208 build and cl1 is a 212 clone build, not predator. Both heads lightly ported by my self.
 
#7
My head3.png

My head10.png

here is what I am talking about on how a factory motor valve seat looks like and how the new heads that are bare look like. Top is bare head and bottom is new never ran head I pulled from a motor to inspect before its ran. You can see the seat not cut as deep on the bare head. The seat cut width is what I would expect on a head with a multi angle valve job. I have lapped them like this but its much harder to get them to seal. It might also be the crappy multi grit compound I am using too.
 
#9
Valve seat/valve efficiency affects flow at low lifts and the effects diminish as lift increases.
Ya that is why I went with the UT1 head. I am looking for a good flowing head at low lift and low RPM. A torque motor. The UT1 head I have has the 26mm intake and 23mm exhaust and a slightly smaller port than the 196 heads. I just finished up my cleaning of the ports. Rounded the short side radius and smoothed out the sharp edges on the sides and around the valve guides. My thought was the smaller port would have better port velocity and increasing the valve flow area would improve the low lift flow. Not sure if I am running ratio rockers with this one or not yet. Probably using the CL1 high torque cam though. This is the head I am using with the 212cc Clone parts I ordered the other day.
 
#10
What grit of lapping compound do you recommend? I have some crappy cheep multi grit crap. Its 120/220 and is too course. Would a straight 220 work better or something different?
 
#11
I use 600. I blue the seat then lightly lap to see where the seat sits on the valve face. Also I can see if any blue spots remain. You can get even finer. I think I got it at either goodson or cylinder head supply. Might. Find it on ebay.
 
#12
Ok just ordered some 600. Going to try and lap with that and see if it seals for me. If not I will by some permatex blue to see were my issue is. Going to be a dad next month so funds are a little tight.
 
#14
For now it looks like I am stuck just lapping valves my self. I was going to start buying the tools for stuff like this but I have a few motors and only one mini bike at the moment. Decided to buy a tube bender instead. One day I will get a multi angle valve seat cutter and a valve re-facer. I also want to get a truing hone and still need an inside dial boar gauge and micrometer set. Going to take me a few years to gather every thing I need. Just started down the path of mini bikes and go-karts a year ago. I have enough in to parts now that I could have bought 3 more minibikes hahaha. Now just need the proper tools to put the motors together the right way. I hate to check things like piston to wall clearance and install height with just a feeler gauge. Its not very accurate. I also don't have a way to check crank end play :( Think the next things I buy will be some tools for measuring. Think a Micrometer set is next on the list of stuff to buy. Maybe by this time next year I will be looking at getting the valve seat cutter.
 
#15
I could ask my dude how much he will charge you and you are more than welcome to mail me the head with some money and I'll pay him and then send it back when it's done.

Just an offer... Dude behind my dads shop has all the machines.
 
#16
Thanks but I just got to man up and buy the tools. I have too many of these motors worked on and I will have paid enough that I should have bought the tools. I have 4 heads that I want to machine, maybe 5 if I do my 420. Going to try lapping my valves in my UT1 head and see how sell that goes. Got some clover 600 grit on the way. I figure the valves will handle being re cut later down the road. I'm not doing any racing just trying to build a good running engine. I got a lot of tools I need to get. I am building motors but have not invested in proper blueprinting and machining equipment. Thanks for the offer though.
 
#17
Yea my machinist has me ruined, he will mill a head for me for like $30

Yesterday he turned down a tapered crank shaft from 1" to 3/4 then broached a key way. $60

So anything I need he can do, usually does my stuff for free unless it's super time consuming because I hook him up with metal from my scrapyard.
 
#18
I almost went to school for machinist and if I would have thought about it more and know what I know now I would have. I was afraid of not getting a great paying job and took refrigeration instead. I am a very mechanical person too. I would have been fine but had just had a baby and did not want to mess around and took what I thought was the safe road.
 
#19
I almost went to school for machinist and if I would have thought about it more and know what I know now I would have. I was afraid of not getting a great paying job and took refrigeration instead. I am a very mechanical person too. I would have been fine but had just had a baby and did not want to mess around and took what I thought was the safe road.
Never too late brotato, no matter your age.
 
#20
Going back in 4 years to do a 2 year electrical program so I can eventually be a self contractor. Half my schooling was electrical so it's connected to my field. I want to do contract work some day for large buildings like stores and malls. I think machinist would be a lot funner but I am hoping I can afford to set up a shop easier doing the electrical.
 
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