Massimo/MudStar MB200S review/ugrades

LIVIT

Well-Known Member
#81
My point was not really about speed. I was referring too chain/swingarm geometry and rake change. The more you increase the movement of the swingarm. The more that geometry between the drive sprocket to rear sprocket is going change. So it "Could" create a chain tension issue. Until I get my new swingarm, I really cannot do a good test of this. I'm really hoping that a chain tensioner is not going to be needed ! If what your doing works good, then that just adds another viable option.
 

LIVIT

Well-Known Member
#82
I went ahead and used the damaged swingarm to test geometry and if there was going to be any chain tension issues. I tested with the stock 50T sprocket and a 60T. I set my chain tension with shocks mounted. I then supported swing arm and removed the shocks. There is no clearance issues with chain around swingarm with either sprocket. I pivoted swingarm up and the chain tension barely changed. So the geometry is perfect, with either sprocket, there should be no need for a chain tensioner.

Next issue, Massimo did not ship out my replacement swingarm assembly Friday as expected, unless no shipping info was sent to me as I was promised. I will be on phone with them first thing Monday ! I'm truly done with being patient and nice.
 

LIVIT

Well-Known Member
#84
Going too the 60T on stock jackshaft, your top end at governor kick in, will only be around 18 mph. Your also going to need another chain.
Sprocket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XK27NJC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Chain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RM1X8MB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details the chain break in this set works great.
If you change the sprocket, the bolts the sprocket comes with, will not work. You will need to use the button heads, that are on the stock sprocket to get clearance. It's a tight fit.

A good friend of mine, has this same mini. He put a TAV on it. Engine is still totally stock. He stated that the performance was impressive. This was with the stock 50T. I would go with a TAV first. If you do go too a TAV, you will for sure need a riser. Make one out of 1 3/8 " square stock. You would need to make it so the engine was moved forward. I found that this Riser plate works perfect. https://hent.com/torque-converter-engine-riser-plate/ I did use a dremel and trimmed some off the front lip of riser too allow a bit more clearance over foot peg mount, to allow for some more forward movement.
 

Attachments

#85
Fantastic info ! I have seen the riser plates and i have seen ways around needing one (modifying the TAV mount plate ) so a riser is not needed . I have seen that the TAV mount plate needs to have two fins taken off the back of the mount plate to fit the engine on Comet TAV`s but i am unsure if the clones need this mod ? I saw that a Trailmaster with this mod (TAV ,60 tooth) used a 9 tooth drive sprocket which i have been looking for unsuccessfully . It was a hill climbing monster . This is the "Grunt and Snort" conversion i have been looking to go to as my end game :D !
The chain pack is something i already ordered and i have a Comet TAV (not a clone ) already ,the purpose i was going to use it for does not need the mount plate so i have no problems taking the fins off the back . Oh this is going to be fun !
 
Last edited:

LIVIT

Well-Known Member
#86
You have to use a riser !!! just trimming the plate will not work on this bike. Unless you have something way different than mine. But you cant post pics so, no way to show. Don't see how your going to clear the swingarm and frame. A good friend and I both have MB200S and we both tried all kind of different ways. He made mounts like I suggested, because even trimming the back plate, you could not trim it enough before hitting driven pulley shaft mount. Its a really tight fit, even with the riser. Be interesting too see pics of what you do !!!
 
#87
Only said i have seen the back plate mod not that i will use it .... Am i right about having to take the 2 fins off the driven bearing shaft boss to get it to fit the engine with either a Comet OEM TAV ($$$) or the cheaper TAV clones ($$) ?
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#88
Fantastic info ! I have seen the riser plates and i have seen ways around needing one (modifying the TAV mount plate ) so a riser is not needed . I have seen that the TAV mount plate needs to have two fins taken off the back of the mount plate to fit the engine on Comet TAV`s but i am unsure if the clones need this mod ? I saw that a Trailmaster with this mod (TAV ,60 tooth) used a 9 tooth drive sprocket which i have been looking for unsuccessfully . It was a hill climbing monster . This is the "Grunt and Snort" conversion i have been looking to go to as my end game :D !
The chain pack is something i already ordered and i have a Comet TAV (not a clone ) already ,the purpose i was going to use it for does not need the mount plate so i have no problems taking the fins off the back . Oh this is going to be fun !
A TAV with 9/60 gearing does work well for off road. If you put it on the road you'll need higher than stock RPM. You should be ok with the throttle screw backed out pretty far with a mainly stock 196.

Get a yellow spring for your TAV's driven. From what I recall the Comet TAV's come with a green spring. The belt shifts way too early with the green spring. I tried the green spring for the fun of it and got 3700 RPM full throttle belt shifts. The yellow spring got me 4500 RPM belt shifts with my 196 and as high as a 4690 RPM belt shift with my 224. Both with 9/60 gearing and 19 inch tire.

9/60 gearing.... Be ready for wheelies.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#89
Only said i have seen the back plate mod not that i will use it .... Am i right about having to take the 2 fins off the driven bearing shaft boss to get it to fit the engine with either a Comet OEM TAV ($$$) or the cheaper TAV clones ($$) ?
The Clone TAV's do not have the extra support that the Comet plate has if that's what you are asking.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#90
Here's an old vid of a guy who put Comet TAV's on his Colemans. You could see what some guys do to get these installed. His concern is not a concern with the Chinese TAV.

 
Last edited:

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#92
Tks my friend. Exactly no clearance issue there. You might have to remove a bolt that holds the engine shroud, but that's a no biggie.
That's another good point about the TAV install. The plate can be bound into the bolt for the cooling tin. I just trimmed a little off the plate for that.
 
#93
SAS289,
Thanks for the heads up on the clone TAV`s i just get one of them at half the price of an original .
TAV are "new " to me since my Rokon uses the Salsbury Torque Converter system .
What is the max rpm you are getting with the screw backed out on the stock 196 and still has the governor ? I backed out 3 turns and my tac says i am doing 4300 so i am unsure . I may still have too many wraps on the plug wire ....
The 9/60 is what i am looking for !
The Crazy guy who double 20`ed the jackshaft to a 50 claims 50 mph but admits the "wind up" is slow but that is scary wild "pitch" LOL .

All great information :cool: Thanks !!
 
Last edited:

LIVIT

Well-Known Member
#94
You really don't need the 9/60. I have a 10/60 on a mini and its great. Hard to find a 9t that will fit most the clone TAV's. I've had the stock 196 from the MB up too 5200 rpm. I posted about that already.

Here is how my good friend I helped. did a DIY riser for this MB
 
#95
Thanks guys ! I ordered the Hent.com riser LIVIT suggested along with the 60T sprocket and chain (can`t have enough i know that too well ) from amazon ,got the TAV 2 30 series , 9 T sprocket and Yellow spring SAS289 recommended off ebay .
The vid is quite helpful on the tweaks for the TAV installation .
I already have the parts for a stage 1 build for a 212 i have in stock but they work on the 196 too ,carb ,jet kit ,air filter/pre filter (sand here gets into everything ) kit and an expansion chamber pipe muffler (screw on with removable baffle core ) I am going to have to make an adjustment to the curve of the pipe so the screw on clears the frame , nothing a Oxy torch can`t handle with ease .
I will header insulation wrap the pipe and screw on in 2 pieces so i can run straight pipe if i need .
Oh and i got a set of "Bark Busters" my Rokon taught me the value of them even at low speeds ,busted fingers can`t throttle or brake ......
 
Last edited:

LIVIT

Well-Known Member
#97
Got my replacement parts today, finally. Massimo had not shipped them as of Monday am. So I got on phone and had a real serious talk with head of CS. I guess it hit home that I was not someone to mess with. So they over nighted them via Fedex. Got new swingarm mounted, the original swingarm was way out of alignment when I compared the 2.
The swingarm mount is just bushings, so do suggest pulling that and greasing it. I used some marine grade on mine.
 
#98
Got my replacement parts today, finally. Massimo had not shipped them as of Monday am. So I got on phone and had a real serious talk with head of CS. I guess it hit home that I was not someone to mess with. So they over nighted them via Fedex. Got new swingarm mounted, the original swingarm was way out of alignment when I compared the 2.
The swingarm mount is just bushings, so do suggest pulling that and greasing it. I used some marine grade on mine.

Finally, some results! Score! We hope anyway. Let us know how it turns out. :scooter:
 
#99
Fantastic ! It shows they are trying to be good CS , yea you had to light a small fire under them ......
Very much appreciate the grease need warning for the swing arm ! What are your thought`s on puting in a zerk fitting or is the grease need too small to go that far (screw the warranty or after it runs out ) ?
 

LIVIT

Well-Known Member
A member of my FB page on this mini put in a Zerk (grease fitting) on his and it turned out great. I think it's worth the effort. Something I'm going to do if I ever get mine right. he put the fitting on the driven pulley area, but it would work on the jackshaft too.
 
Last edited:
Top