Max Torque Clutch Springs

#1
Can some one please explain the theory behind the different RPM ranges for the Max Torque Clutch springs? Mainly how the different RPM Ranges work on the springs.
 
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CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#5
Not necessarily. A weaker spring will engage the clutch lower in the rpm band. The drag race guys use a stiff spring so they can get the rpm's up to be into the powerband so they can take off faster. A larger rear sprocket or less tooth count on the clutch will increase acceleration, but limit the top speed
 
#6
To get the best help you need to put forth some more effort and provide us with more information:
1. Tell us what kind of bike you have, tire size, etc. PHOTOS would be very helpful!
2. Tell us what engine , clutch gearing and sprocket gearing you have. PHOTOS would be very helpful!
3. Specifically, just what are you trying to accomplish? (e.g., faster take off, better hill climbing, higher top end, etc.)
Michael
 
#7
I can do that. I was just really looking for general information on how they work.

Here is what I am working with. I have a Murray Track 2 with a Tecumseh engine but I am not using the stock engine. I am using a Honda GC160 5hp engine that I know runs. The clutch I currently have is a Max Torque SS with 10 teeth. I just ordered a new SS clutch with 12 teeth. So let me start a list:

Bike: Murray Track 2
Engine: Honda GC160 5HP
Clutches: Max Torque SS 10 and 12 Teeth
Rear Sproket: 72 Teeth
Tires: 4.00-8 other marking: K-304 K-8-008

I live in Mississippi on the coast so there are not many hills. I would like to a faster take off but I am mostly going to use this for trail riding. I would like to increase the top speed as well. I read some where that I could use a MIKUNI VM22 Carburetor on the Honda GC160. I was thinking of doing that.

My end goal is to get a predator engine but that is not in the cards at this time.
 

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#8
With the 12t clutch and the 72t rear, you are about where you want to be with that GC160. You will definitely accelerate quickly up to about 20 MPH if you're keeping the GC on the governor, which you should. A 60t sprocket would give you another 5 MPH on the top end, but since this bike will be used for trail riding, you are probably good to go.

(My opinion:) The VM22 will provide good throttle response, but the fabrication of the intake manifold and associated hardware, plus of course you're going to want a cool exhaust, may not justify the results from a performance standpoint. However, those motors done like that look very cool. I think you'll be happy with what you got after the clutch change, and you might be better off saving your money for the Predator and any modifications you want to make with that set up.
 
#9
(My opinion:) The VM22 will provide good throttle response, but the fabrication of the intake manifold and associated hardware, plus of course you're going to want a cool exhaust, may not justify the results from a performance standpoint. However, those motors done like that look very cool. I think you'll be happy with what you got after the clutch change, and you might be better off saving your money for the Predator and any modifications you want to make with that set up.
So if I make an exhaust will that affect the performance of the VM22 or are you just saying it would be better to spend that money else where?
Because I do not mind spending the money plus I have a welder and a 3'x30' roll of stainless steel sheet metal.

This motor just happened to come into my possession for $50.
 
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#10
For trail riding (which will be lower speed) I would use the 10 tooth clutch to keep the rpms up so you do not lug the engine and to keep the clutch fully engaged (no slipping) so it does not overheat.
Michael
 
#15
Responding to questions and trying to help on OldMiniBikes has become a zero sum endeavor.
I don't think so I have gotten a lot of help from you and the others that have responded. I just needed clarification on your response. Like I said I appreciate the responses greatly. I just needs to know if adding an exhaust will have a negative effect on the performance. Sorry if it seems I like I did read your post but I several times. I am new to small engines. I am used to working on vehicles.
 
#16
I don't think so I have gotten a lot of help from you and the others that have responded. I just needed clarification on your response. Like I said I appreciate the responses greatly. I just needs to know if adding an exhaust will have a negative effect on the performance. Sorry if it seems I like I did read your post but I several times. I am new to small engines. I am used to working on vehicles.
You've changed your parameters a few times in this post, and it makes it very difficult to provide you with opinions.

If you're going to spend the money you don't have (since the Predator you want is not in the cards?) on a VM22, then you've added both fuel and volume to your engine and just like "vehicles" will benefit from a more free flowing exhaust, because the one you have on that GC is a box with a tiny hole. On the other hand, simply adding a free flowing exhaust to the engine wont do a lot except make it louder.

You aren't going to be able to make an intake with sheet steel, from a realistic standpoint. So my point was, you don't seem able to get the engine you really want, I assume because of cost, yet are willing to spend more than that initial cost of a Predator on a far lesser engine as well as some fairly high level fabrication work.

As far as clutch and trail riding, it is obvious that the term "trail riding" means different things to different people. As Michael pointed out, his version of trail riding is far slower than my term. You said flat terrain, so I assumed a 12t clutch to a 72t sprocket at a 6:1 ratio would be okay. However, if you are going to ride in the boondocks, through the mud and rocks, Michael's comment on the 10t being better applies. But no one but you knows what your definition of a trail or trail riding is. You also commented on acceleration, which really doesn't apply to your stated goal of trail riding.

You can swap Max Torque sprockets, but it will involve a new bushing, and since I know nothing of the condition of that clutch, can not offer any more advice on swapping sprockets. Shoe and spring condition, etc. you might have been able to simply rebuild your old one.

Lastly, I had two nearly new GC160's on my shelf that were free. I still have one, very low hours, taking up space. It's value is so low, that in the years it's been sitting on my shelf, I've never considered messing with it. They are essentially throw-away engines, with plastic parts, with no aftermarket support.

My advice to you at this point, is to get the new clutch, get new chain, get it all together and running with a stock engine and see what you end up with. At that point, you will have gained better understanding of small engines and mini bike applications, and how your wants and needs can best be met.

I'm not one of those guys who needs to hear himself talk on the internet, although my massive post count might look otherwise. :laugh: So I apologize for my flippant comment earlier. Over the years, we've had a lot of "ask holes" come in, waste everyone's time, then disappear. Hope you're not one of those guys. When you do get a better direction on where you want to go, the OldMiniBikes Warehouse who sponsors this site has an excellent customer service section, with knowlegable people who can answer just about any question you have. Best of luck.
 
#17
You've changed your parameters a few times in this post, and it makes it very difficult to provide you with opinions.
/QUOTE]

BINGO!! Also, your questions are vague and you do not initially provide us with enough details (until we pull it out of you) so that WE can best help YOU. You are not alone, however (plenty of others do the same), and I would respectively request that ALL posters with questions really put in the needed effort with enough information.
Michael
 
#18
You've changed your parameters a few times in this post, and it makes it very difficult to provide you with opinions.

If you're going to spend the money you don't have (since the Predator you want is not in the cards?) on a VM22, then you've added both fuel and volume to your engine and just like "vehicles" will benefit from a more free flowing exhaust, because the one you have on that GC is a box with a tiny hole. On the other hand, simply adding a free flowing exhaust to the engine wont do a lot except make it louder.

You aren't going to be able to make an intake with sheet steel, from a realistic standpoint. So my point was, you don't seem able to get the engine you really want, I assume because of cost, yet are willing to spend more than that initial cost of a Predator on a far lesser engine as well as some fairly high level fabrication work.

As far as clutch and trail riding, it is obvious that the term "trail riding" means different things to different people. As Michael pointed out, his version of trail riding is far slower than my term. You said flat terrain, so I assumed a 12t clutch to a 72t sprocket at a 6:1 ratio would be okay. However, if you are going to ride in the boondocks, through the mud and rocks, Michael's comment on the 10t being better applies. But no one but you knows what your definition of a trail or trail riding is. You also commented on acceleration, which really doesn't apply to your stated goal of trail riding.

You can swap Max Torque sprockets, but it will involve a new bushing, and since I know nothing of the condition of that clutch, can not offer any more advice on swapping sprockets. Shoe and spring condition, etc. you might have been able to simply rebuild your old one.

Lastly, I had two nearly new GC160's on my shelf that were free. I still have one, very low hours, taking up space. It's value is so low, that in the years it's been sitting on my shelf, I've never considered messing with it. They are essentially throw-away engines, with plastic parts, with no aftermarket support.

My advice to you at this point, is to get the new clutch, get new chain, get it all together and running with a stock engine and see what you end up with. At that point, you will have gained better understanding of small engines and mini bike applications, and how your wants and needs can best be met.

I'm not one of those guys who needs to hear himself talk on the internet, although my massive post count might look otherwise. :laugh: So I apologize for my flippant comment earlier. Over the years, we've had a lot of "ask holes" come in, waste everyone's time, then disappear. Hope you're not one of those guys. When you do get a better direction on where you want to go, the OldMiniBikes Warehouse who sponsors this site has an excellent customer service section, with knowlegable people who can answer just about any question you have. Best of luck.
Sorry about the flip flopping back and forth. I didn't want to come across like that. I was just trying to understand.

Ok, so it is basically a throw away engine that is good to know. I will not be doing any fab work then. I originally thought that I could get something out of it sinc it was a Honda.

I should have stated this earlier and I apologize. My ultimate goal is to make this a sweet little steet bike to go with my lowered turbo truck when it is finished (but that is way down the road). I do have some money but not the money that I want to put into modding the predator engine like I want right now. Like I said just trying to learn for the time being. I might not get on for a few weeks here and there just because I have a lot of projects around the house to do. I don't try to be one of those "ask Hole" unless I never receive a response from anyone. In this case I did not.

You mentioned getting a new chain. I just received my new clutch in the mail. What are the draw backs of using an old chain on a new clutch?

I greatly greatly appreciate the bluntness about the engine it is what I needed to hear.
 
#19
What are the draw backs of using an old chain on a new clutch?
Generally, a used chain has stretched, and once again, without knowing the condition of your chain, it is impossible to make definitive statements, but: Your clutch has a new sprocket on it, with no wear. The better you match your chain to the sprocket, the better off you are with noise, wear, and adjustment.

Since chain does so much within a bike's drive system, I use the highest quality chain I can get. Others here have said the lower quality chains are just fine, and I also agree with that for the budget-minded person.

Max Torque has a cool article on lubricating chains with a quarter block of paraffin wax, and oil over a hot plate, and several articles and on line videos of clutch bushing replacement.

It sure seems to me that putting the machine together with an inexpensive new chain, stock engine, and getting it rigged right with brakes and throttle, is the way to go. (if you haven't rigged the GC throttle yet, you have a bit of light fabrication to do) You might find it's good enough, especially as you consider the expense and time required for your truck project.
 
#20
Sorry about the flip flopping back and forth. I didn't want to come across like that. I was just trying to understand.
I should have stated this earlier and I apologize. My ultimate goal is to make this a sweet little street bike to go with my lowered turbo truck when it is finished
OK, here we go again...
In one of your early replies you stated: "I am mostly going to use this for TRAIL RIDING." (emphasis added)
So, which is it?
Michael
 
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