Hey guys im brand new here and this is my first post. I found a motovox minibike on the side of the road out for the trash (one advantage of having a friend who's a trash collections man). It had a blown engine on it so i bought a new predator 212cc engine from harbor freight. I installed it and a new sintrifical clutch and it was very fast but going slow in the woods started to burn up the clutch so i pulled the engine back off and im now trying to install a torque converter which isn't an easy task with this mini bike cus the torque converter plate hits the frame and when you put 1 1/2 inch spacers under the engine the gas tank, air filter and exhaust hit the top frame. So i installed the stage 1 kit with an air filter and an outside frame header and bigger main jet. I also pulled the gas tank off so i would have unlimited room on top. But i have a question... the original engines mount holes weren't in the correct spot for the torque converters jack shaft sprocket to line up with the rear sprocket so what is the best way to mark and drill new engine mount holes in the frame thru the 1 1/2 inch square tubing im using for spacers? And another question... can i use the predator gas tank on top of the frame and how can i rig mount it?
Motovox with predator 212 and torque converter engine mounting
- Thread starter Stiltman0287
- Start date
Hello and welcome!
You can slot the torque converter plate mounting holes and grind down one gusset on the back, this will allow you to rotate the plate more, raising the driven. You can also trim the bottom of the plate and cover to clear the frame if needed. A little more work than sticking blocks under the engine but is a better solution, IMO. If you must raise the engine, which I don't think you should, raising just the rear will be more effective than raising front and rear because the driven is behind the engine, raising just the rear will swing the driven upward (raising only the rear will raise the driven more than raising the front and rear an equal amount). You need to have the engine flat against the mounting surface, though, to prevent stressing the mounting ears, so the best way to raise only the rear would be to raise the rear of the engine mount plate (cut/weld). I think you could mod the torque converter plate and not need to raise the engine, though.
Here's a MM with the plate mod, notice how high the driven is.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/...ith-predator-212-and-torque-converter.103977/
Here's a CT100U with plate mod; he had to raise the engine a little because it's a smaller 98cc engine (crank is closer to base than a 212).
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/want-to-put-a-tc-on-a-coleman-ct100.141989/
You can slot the torque converter plate mounting holes and grind down one gusset on the back, this will allow you to rotate the plate more, raising the driven. You can also trim the bottom of the plate and cover to clear the frame if needed. A little more work than sticking blocks under the engine but is a better solution, IMO. If you must raise the engine, which I don't think you should, raising just the rear will be more effective than raising front and rear because the driven is behind the engine, raising just the rear will swing the driven upward (raising only the rear will raise the driven more than raising the front and rear an equal amount). You need to have the engine flat against the mounting surface, though, to prevent stressing the mounting ears, so the best way to raise only the rear would be to raise the rear of the engine mount plate (cut/weld). I think you could mod the torque converter plate and not need to raise the engine, though.
Here's a MM with the plate mod, notice how high the driven is.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/...ith-predator-212-and-torque-converter.103977/
Here's a CT100U with plate mod; he had to raise the engine a little because it's a smaller 98cc engine (crank is closer to base than a 212).
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/want-to-put-a-tc-on-a-coleman-ct100.141989/
