Need help getting my ratios correct

#1
I'm not sure if my gearing for my snowbike build is anywhere close to where it needs to be. Heres all of the info that I have that I though would be relevant:

Track drive wheel is 7.5 inches diameter
Track circumference is about 46 inches
The height of the track and wheel is about 9 1/4 inches
The driver gear on the torque converter is 12 tooth
The biggest gear I could fit on the back was a 54 tooth, and its 6.66 inches
This is all with #35 chain.

Can anyone help me make heads or tails of this info? I cannot go any bigger on the rear gear because it would be bigger than the track. I originally thought that the final drive wouldnt matter that much because the torque converter would make up for it on the low end, but now I have no idea.
 
#2
I'm not sure if my gearing for my snowbike build is anywhere close to where it needs to be. Heres all of the info that I have that I though would be relevant:

Track drive wheel is 7.5 inches diameter
Track circumference is about 46 inches
The height of the track and wheel is about 9 1/4 inches
The driver gear on the torque converter is 12 tooth
The biggest gear I could fit on the back was a 54 tooth, and its 6.66 inches
This is all with #35 chain.

Can anyone help me make heads or tails of this info? I cannot go any bigger on the rear gear because it would be bigger than the track. I originally thought that the final drive wouldnt matter that much because the torque converter would make up for it on the low end, but now I have no idea.
I would plug your values into the BMIkarts gear ratio calculator. There’s a guy on FB listing a home-built track bike for sale. Maybe you would benefit from a peek at it. I would think 8:1 would be a good starting point.
 
#4
That gave me a gear ratio of 4.500 with a top speed of 17.xxx. That doesn’t take in account the torque converter. Does that not apply to the equation?
It does, depending on which TC. Some have a bit of overdrive built into them. It can be remedied with a machined bushing to restrict the driver range of motion. 4.5:1 sounds pretty tall.
Trial and error,maybe? Maybe start a new thread with specific wording to attract more folks attention.
Member jeep2003 has built some machines that overlap yours.
 
#5
I'm not sure if my gearing for my snowbike build is anywhere close to where it needs to be. Heres all of the info that I have that I though would be relevant:

Track drive wheel is 7.5 inches diameter
Track circumference is about 46 inches
The height of the track and wheel is about 9 1/4 inches
The driver gear on the torque converter is 12 tooth
The biggest gear I could fit on the back was a 54 tooth, and its 6.66 inches
This is all with #35 chain.

Can anyone help me make heads or tails of this info? I cannot go any bigger on the rear gear because it would be bigger than the track. I originally thought that the final drive wouldnt matter that much because the torque converter would make up for it on the low end, but now I have no idea.
I'm not sure if my gearing for my snowbike build is anywhere close to where it needs to be. Heres all of the info that I have that I though would be relevant:

Track drive wheel is 7.5 inches diameter
Track circumference is about 46 inches
The height of the track and wheel is about 9 1/4 inches
The driver gear on the torque converter is 12 tooth
The biggest gear I could fit on the back was a 54 tooth, and its 6.66 inches
This is all with #35 chain.

Can anyone help me make heads or tails of this info? I cannot go any bigger on the rear gear because it would be bigger than the track. I originally thought that the final drive wouldnt matter that much because the torque converter would make up for it on the low end, but now I have no idea.
Boz,
The Comet torque converters start with a 3:1 ratio (low rpm's) & max out in 1:3 ratio (hi rpm's) if I'm not mistaken. The first number of the ratios are the engine & the last number of the ratios are for the jack-shaft. The Comet series 30 is the same but will add an extra 10% overdrive at Maximum rpm. That's around 3300 - 3600 rpm for the average 4-stroke. Also worth mentioning is that the series 30's are asymmetric, meaning that the belt is steep angled on one side & almost no angle on the other side. If you're running 8HP or more, you'll need to step up to the series 40 setup. Series 20 & 40 are symmetric, meaning that the belt has about a 15 degree angle on both sides. I hope this helps to point you in the right direction. Do you have any pics? Good Luck!
 
#6
My converter has an angle on just 1 side. Like I said before, I can’t get a bigger gear on the drive track so I’m not sure how to get my ratio closer.
 
#7
My converter has an angle on just 1 side. Like I said before, I can’t get a bigger gear on the drive track so I’m not sure how to get my ratio closer.
I just posted some pics of the axle drop-plates that I added to gain more clearance for a 60 tooth sprocket. They're posted under the "Trikes" heading on this site.
 
#8
I just posted some pics of the axle drop-plates that I added to gain more clearance for a 60 tooth sprocket. They're posted under the "Trikes" heading on this site.
I see that. I don’t think that would help my application though. My sprocket is literally almost the exact diameter of the drive wheel
 
#10
I can’t put taller wheels on because the wheels drive the track.
I just ordered a 10t gear that seems like it will work. That will at least gear me down a bit.
 
#13
L
i have a build thread in the builds section, all the pics are there
Looks like you have enough room for a jackshaft. Maybe it would help on the final engine location. It might allow you to reduce the size of the axle sprocket, could keep it a bit out of harm’s way.
The ratios could be fine-tuned the way you like.
Just a thought
 
#18
Ok. Well before I fabricate some crazy 2 jackshaft thing, I might just try my 10/54 with he torque converter. What’s the worst that could happen? It just won’t push the machine?
 
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