Need Some Electronic Ignition Help

[ogygopsis]

I'm in the process of changing all of my 1960's three horsepower and four horsepower Briggs motors from points and condenser ignition to electronic ignition. All the new units arrived today and now I have a question. Protruding from the module are two smaller wires like in the picture below. I'm thinking that the one with the plain stripped end is the one for the kill switch. I'm also thinking that the one with the crimped on eyelet is a ground. Am I correct? Does this ground wire just get fitted beneath one of the bolts used to attach the module to the motor? I will certainly appreciate any help you fellows can give me. It's tough being an analog man in a digital age. Ogy

 

[chrisr]

What you said sounds logical. I checked a couple motors and they read aprox 250 ohms from the ground lug to the kill switch wire if this helps.

 

[125ccCrazy]

I've never seen a solid state Briggs coil that had a wire that gets grounded all the time... if both wires are connected you won't want to ground one all the time or you won't have spark..

 

[Eliminator]

I'm in the process of changing all of my 1960's three horsepower and four horsepower Briggs motors from points and condenser ignition to electronic ignition. All the new units arrived today and now I have a question. Protruding from the module are two smaller wires like in the picture below. I'm thinking that the one with the plain stripped end is the one for the kill switch. I'm also thinking that the one with the crimped on eyelet is a ground. Am I correct? Does this ground wire just get fitted beneath one of the bolts used to attach the module to the motor? I will certainly appreciate any help you fellows can give me. It's tough being an analog man in a digital age. Ogy View attachment 77222

Do any of those 60s Briggs engines you mention have the older style 4 bolt mounted coils?
I did not think you could use the newer electronic ignition pointless type coils with the 2 bolt mounting to replace the older style 4 bolt?
Inquiring minds want to know !!

 

[ogygopsis]

I've never seen a solid state Briggs coil that had a wire that gets grounded all the time... if both wires are connected you won't want to ground one all the time or you won't have spark..

125, The more I looked at this coil I'm beginning to think that what I have here is simply a replacement coil for the old points and breaker system. The electronic ignition module (or magnetron) type that I'm looking for should not have the two wires in addition to the spark plug wire. The electronic ignition modules only have the spark plug wire and a metal tab to which a kill switch wire can be attached. What I'm having trouble with is finding out if they make an electronic module for the 80202 model Briggs and if they do; what the part number might be. If anybody out there knows; I'd sure like to hear from you. Ogy

 

[ogygopsis]

Do any of those 60s Briggs engines you mention have the older style 4 bolt mounted coils?
I did not think you could use the newer electronic ignition pointless type coils with the 2 bolt mounting to replace the older style 4 bolt?
Inquiring minds want to know !!

All of my Brigg's have the two bolt mounts. I'm not familiar with the four bolt mounted coils. They may be from the very early sixties like maybe 60 or 61. Thank, Ogy

 

[markus]

125, The more I looked at this coil I'm beginning to think that what I have here is simply a replacement coil for the old points and breaker system. The electronic ignition module (or magnetron) type that I'm looking for should not have the two wires in addition to the spark plug wire. The electronic ignition modules only have the spark plug wire and a metal tab to which a kill switch wire can be attached. What I'm having trouble with is finding out if they make an electronic module for the 80202 model Briggs and if they do; what the part number might be. If anybody out there knows; I'd sure like to hear from you. Ogy

my electronic ignition ones have 2 wires, one with the eyelet goes to the mount bolt or sometimes a bolt threaded into that hole (top left in your pic) and the other stripped end sold wire is the one that clips the to kill switch. That little hump off to the lower right of the "coil" itself is the pickup. A factory one you may see the ground wire factory pressed or soldered into something on the armature but on cheap aftermarkets they probably do it like yours to save time in production.

 

[ogygopsis]

my electronic ignition ones have 2 wires, one with the eyelet goes to the mount bolt or sometimes a bolt threaded into that hole (top left in your pic) and the other stripped end sold wire is the one that clips the to kill switch. That little hump off to the lower right of the "coil" itself is the pickup. A factory one you may see the ground wire factory pressed or soldered into something on the armature but on cheap aftermarkets they probably do it like yours to save time in production.

If the one in my picture is indeed an electronic module then I'm more puzzled than before. The one in my pic is brand new and I mounted it like you described. Set the gap at .013" and rotated the flywheel (with a drill) at more than 250 rpm with a spark tester attached and got no spark whatsoever. The magnet is clean and strong. I just returned from my local Briggs repair shop and ordered a Stens 440-409. That's supposed to be the correct model for the 80202 Briggs according to him. I'll try it when it gets here and report back. Ogy

 

[MB165]

i think you need at least 300rpm for the electronic modules to fire. it wouldnt hurt to set the gap at .010. the newer coils will fit the older 4 bolt blocks.

 

[creia]

I've never seen a solid state Briggs coil that had a wire that gets grounded all the time... if both wires are connected you won't want to ground one all the time or you won't have spark..

I agree with 125ccCrazy. We have only purchased OEM BRIGGS "Magnetron" coils and they do not like anything like what you have posted in your photo. The OEM Briggs electronic coils have a male spade end attached where you connect your female kill switch wire spade.
Michael

 

[ogygopsis]

I agree with 125ccCrazy. We have only purchased OEM BRIGGS "Magnetron" coils and they do not like anything like what you have posted in your photo. The OEM Briggs electronic coils have a male spade end attached where you connect your female kill switch wire spade.
Michael

Good! Because that's exactly the type I ordered today from my local Briggs repair shop today. If it doesn't work I will be selling ten vintage Briggs motors with no ignition systems..lol. No way am I going to mess with re-installing points, condensers, etc, etc. Ogy

 

[buckeye]

Clone em..:laugh:

 

[MB165]

Good! Because that's exactly the type I ordered today from my local Briggs repair shop today. If it doesn't work I will be selling ten vintage Briggs motors with no ignition systems..lol. No way am I going to mess with re-installing points, condensers, etc, etc. Ogy

Itll work, the factory parts are right on......
i always try to go with factory parts too as long as i can get them. you can always trust the fit and quality.

did you find a module for the 8cu in models?

 

[ogygopsis]

Itll work, the factory parts are right on......
i always try to go with factory parts too as long as i can get them. you can always trust the fit and quality.

did you find a module for the 8cu in models?

I'm glad to hear that MB. If I'm not mistaken; the 80202 Briggs is an 8 cubic inch (3hp) motor and the module I ordered #440-409 is supposed to be the correct one for that. Let me know if I'm wrong about that. I still have to find out which module will work on the 10 cubic inch (4hp). I haven't done the research for those yet. With any luck the 3's and 4's will use the same module. Ogy

 

[MB165]

yeah if i remember correctly on the 5hp modules the bolt holes are a little wider than the 3hp. the 3 hp are the same as what is used on their push mowers. if a magnetron setup isnt available for the three hp, it might be possible to get one of the old magnetron upgrade kits. those snapped onto the origional points coil, in between one of the coil legs and the plastic center part. either way i think your gonna be good to go.

 

[ogygopsis]

yeah if i remember correctly on the 5hp modules the bolt holes are a little wider than the 3hp. the 3 hp are the same as what is used on their push mowers. if a magnetron setup isnt available for the three hp, it might be possible to get one of the old magnetron upgrade kits. those snapped onto the origional points coil, in between one of the coil legs and the plastic center part. either way i think your gonna be good to go.

You're right MB. That was going to be my plan B. While the upgrade kits are no longer available through the regular suppliers they do list a number of NOS ones on ebay. I'll keep you posted on how I make out. Ogy