Oil burning on an HS40

markus

Well-Known Member
#21
If you had it bored the cranks out of it, do you have some shots of the crankshaft out and cleaned off of all the locktite residue? does it look like its been worded on already? That looks like the flywheel stopped but the motor didn't at some point in its life!
 

1971_MB1A

Well-Known Member
#22
Ok one more question, I was able to aquire a .020 over piston, had the cylinder bored .020 over so, cylinder issue should be resolved. However, looking at the fly wheel and crank mating surfaces, the guy used lock-tite red on it, as well as the threads, when he torqued down the flywheel nut. Replacing the crank and flywheel was part of his repair work. Looking at the keyway, it looks like there a gap on the back side of the keyway trench.
View attachment 290209
Is this something that can be repaired? Weld on some metal and smooth out the surface?
Probably cheaper in the end to just replace the crankshaft. Keyway and threads both look fairly cobbled up to me.
 
#23
Does the key rock side to side when it's seated in the keyway?
Without being torqued down? Yes. A little bit. These cranks are hard to come by. At least that’s been my experience. Usually sell between $150 - $200. So if I can fix it I’d rather go that route.
 
#24
If you had it bored the cranks out of it, do you have some shots of the crankshaft out and cleaned off of all the locktite residue? does it look like its been worded on already? That looks like the flywheel stopped but the motor didn't at some point in its life!
I’ll be taking it back out. I’d like to clean up the cylinder head surfaces. I’ll get some shots of the crank cleaned up
 
Top