Powder coating basic questions

waltsuz

New Member
#1
I know from reading posts there are a few guys here with a lot of powder coating experience. I got a few questions if someone may offer some answers please.
How much metal prep should I do? Does it need to be like primer ready or does the coater do this? What should I expect to pay for a minibike frame and fork to get done? All my stuff is DOM tubing to coat.
I have obviously no experience with this, don't know what to expect. Will I be as happy with it as if I were to Base Clear coat in Urethane automotive paint. Thanks Walt
 
#2
I'm the same as you Walt , have never had anything done with it .
It seems to be the in thing and very durable , most every thing you buy thease days from truck acesseries to lawn chairs are coated lol.
My only concern is not being able to do touch ups if I decide I have to weld on another bracket or if I damage something.
Rob.
 
#3
I have had a few bikes powdwercoated.the place i deal with blasts everything first.i have dropped off greasy,grimy parts and they take it from there.the price averaged about 100.00 bucks per bike for every part that needed coating (prep included)for basic colors.alot more durable than paint,but like rob said make sure all your fab work is done.candy and special colors would be more.people have told me that they have payed alot more than i have.just depends on the shop i guess.the place i deal with is huge and pumps out alot of parts.their smallest oven is 24 foot
 
#4
Hey guys. I'm no expert in this powder coating but my son has his own powder coating company in the start up stages. He has done automotive and motorcycle parts for customers and is trying to build the business. To help increase his customer base he has been offering to paint a couple smaller parts for folks for free. (you pay shipping to/from) If your pleased with his work then the hope is that you will become a future loyal customer. Sounds like a win/win. If anyone is interested PM me and we can discuss further.

Just putting this out there. Not trying to Spam. If this is against forum rules then please accept my apology and delete.

Steve
 

TomH

New Member
#5
Will you be as happy as base coat clear coat? That depends. The problem I have with powder coating is when it is scratched down to the base metal, the rust will spread underneath the coating and pop more off. To me it is a different way of covering metal. It by far a more durable coating and it will last longer and stay better looking than paint. But rust will get underneath it and creep. That doesn't happen as much with auto paint. Touch up could be the key, if you can find a paint that matches close and stay on top of it. I didn't..Don't do what I did.:laugh:
 
#6
I'm thinking about having a minibike frame powder coated. My last experience was about 20 years ago, when I had some really old magnesium car wheels coated. They were sandblasted before coating. They have now corroded under the coating and blisters filled w/white powder are appearing. I wouldn't expect the same type of failure w/steel parts. Oh, I also have an '86 Yamaha motorcycle that might get the PC treatment. Its engine cases were polished and clear coated by the factory. The clear paint is starting to peel. I work w/auto body shops every day in my job as an insurance claims rep. I asked one of the shop's painters if the clear paint could be removed and re-applied w/o damaging the polished surface of the metal. The man said yes, it could, but said I should consider clear PC instead of paint. Do they really do clear powder coating?
 
#7
Powder coating is a plastic coating. Like gelcoat on a boat.
Powder coating - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Hot rodders and offroad/rock crawlers use hardener additive to paint. One frame paint is called POR. The problem.....it's black.
I uses Krylon or Rustolium for my jeep. I can repair it myself anytime. Cost effective.
I use Eastwoods frame paint under the body on the running gear.
Auto Paint Supplies Shop - Automotive Paint Colors, Touch Up Paint- Eastwood
If I hit or slide on rocks. I sand and spray some. BOOM...I'm done.

My friend that owns a hot rod shop just painted frame and forks on a old scooter. Sealer,base,color,clear. $700! Very pretty....so pretty, the scooter will never be ridden.

Each finish has good and negitive to them. It's just up to you what you want and what your going to do with the bike. Show or go!:scooter:
Bullhead
 

TomH

New Member
#8
Not too many mini bikers use the POR for some reason. Most rusty's are blasted with something. If I find a rust bucket frame I will use it. It is not a top coat, but a rust converter. I have used it, fun to watch it work. Basically just wash the frame, dry it and paint it on. Yeah 700 bucks for a shelf queen sounds about right. You can get there with a mini too, with show chrome, high dollar shiny fasteners and power/paint.
 
#9
hey Walt i can try and answer some of your questions , worked in a shop doing the prep and help on powder coating . on your surface prep the cleaner the better . like no loose crap, rust, grease . that helps cut down the mess the shop has to deal with . some shops may do sand blasting some dont , the one i worked in didnt we just hit it wit a acid wash trip in the oven to dry and spray dust then back it to cook . it was like $35 a rack of parts there so like you could do alot of mini parts cheap .
on the chipping ya its kinda a one shot thing it chips its trashed and a bitch to get off . the only ways to get it off is burn it (shove back in oven and over cook it till it cracks off ) sand blast , or you can use zip strip that seems to kill most of the powder coats but you need to work fast as it will reset the powder and can make it real hard to remove .
there is different grades of powder some are much harder the others for wear points , like atv frames .
there was more but i cant think of it now :confused: any more questions ask and i can try and answer them
 
#10
Powder Water

Never used it but this may help with touch up if you can get the powder that is used. Not sure how the color differs when applied in a liquid form versus baked on, I'm sure it would depend on numerous factors. It's worth a try nevertheless.
 
#11
Walt...

I've been using the powder coating method of covering parts now for over twenty years.... The colors, along with application methods and the over all process has change from when I got my first "ORANGE PEELED" looking piece.... A narrowed Chevy 12 bolt rear end :doah: Depending what you want ....:shrug: and where the item in question is going to be used.... is up to you if it deems to be coated with the MUCH more durable coating as appossed to painting your item(s) in question. Powder coating has come along way from the days of "orange peeled" looking parts.

As a welding instructor.... YOU will know that it makes NO DIFFERENCE in the coating of metal..... Be it paint, powder coating or plating.... if the metal has a rust problem before any type of coating is applied. I read is this thread that rust will creep more under powder coating then paint.... Thats B.S..... If you got a rust problem.... You need to get a new piece of metal into the picture.... As they say.... "RUST NEVER SLEEPS." Walt, I have found that powder coating items today is the way to go on certain items..... The choice is yours! On a parting note Walt, look for a shop that has been around for awhile.... And ask them about the day's of "Orange Peeled" looking parts :thumbsup:


BC1500 DAVE :thumbsup:
 

TomH

New Member
#13
It is not B.S. Dave. there is my whole quote below.
"The problem I have with powder coating is when it is scratched down to the base metal, the rust will spread underneath the coating and pop more off."
 

MiniBike Paul

Well-Known Member
#14
Use a large established powder coater, mine sand blasts but if there is pitting or gouges or ?? in the metal it will show in the end so you should grind and sand everything to the level of finish you want! But you don't have to clean!

My guy gets $125 for a bike and its' parts!
 
#15
We have a company close to my home that does this. It looks as if they blast prep the project they powdercoat. I"ll check in with this place and see. It seems price wise to actually be less than what I would pay at the paint store for materials. I generally use Dupont Chroma base /clear systems paints. Thanks for the opinions and direction in this, Walt
W. Kendall & Sons Inc. Home Page
 
#16
I have a powder coating gun, well 2 if you include the $50 broken Craftsman junk gun, and a propane powered infrared heating lamp that is on a really nice stand that adjusts in a bunch of ways. I've only coated a little test piece in a toaster oven which I also have dedicated for garage use and it worked okay. There were lumps on it because that's how the powder came out of the gun. I didn't put in enough powder for it to flow out properly so I had to shake it a little and that's the cause of the bumps. My point is that some of you should try powder coating for yourself if you regularly go take things to get done. It's always more fun when you do it yourself, isn't it?
 

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#17
I have a powder coat gun, supplies, and oven and have been successful with my endeavors with parts no bigger than, say, a chain guard or tin pan primary on a Harley. Easy to do if a guy can follow written instructions.

The down-side:
1. If you later, upon assembly, require an alteration or bracket added...you're screwed.
2. If there is ANY oil or grease deep in a crevice or inside something it will cause a mess when in the oven.
3. Forget doing anything the has to have body filler or such. Unless you are willing to lead-up the dents and etc. you will have to powder coat it with the imperfections.
4. If, as noted above, the part is damaged it cannot be simply 'spotted' as if it were paint.
5. As noted above, if you need to remove the powder coat you will be making up new cuss words before it is over. If, indeed, you stick with it long enough to ever get it over with.
6. If the project is a 'restoration' powder coat is a complete no-no. It looks wrong even if it is just a black frame. As for matching true colors on a tank or whatever...it will not even be close 90% of the time.
7. If you powder coat those aluminum rims and at some future time decide to have them plated you are out of luck. Most plate shops know better than to even try.
8. Powder coat usually can be polished when it gets weathered. And it DOES! So why not just paint it to start with?
9. Powder coat is so thick that it is sure to cause more trouble that regular paint when things are bolted together.

The attached pic of my 41 Knuckle shows some of the powder coat that I did myself. The fenders and tank and frame are spray paint. Most of the rest of the black is powder coat.
 
Last edited:
#18
I have a powder coat gun, supplies, and oven and have been successful with my endeavors with parts no bigger than, say, a chain guard or tin pan primary on a Harley. Easy to do if a guy can follow written instructions.

The down-side:
1. If you later, upon assembly, require an alteration or bracket added...you're screwed.
2. If there is ANY oil or grease deep in a crevice or inside something it will cause a mess when in the oven.
3. Forget doing anything the has to have body filler or such. Unless you are willing to lead-up the dents and etc. you will have to powder coat it with the imperfections.
4. If, as noted above, the part is damaged it cannot be simply 'spotted' as if it were paint.
5. As noted above, if you need to remove the powder coat you will be making up new cuss words before it is over. If, indeed, you stick with it long enough to ever get it over with.
6. If the project is a 'restoration' powder coat is a complete no-no. It looks wrong even if it is just a black frame. As for matching true colors on a tank or whatever...it will not even be close 90% of the time.
7. If you powder coat those aluminum rims and at some future time decide to have them plated you are out of luck. Most plate shops know better than to even try.
8. Powder coat usually can be polished when it gets weathered. And it DOES! So why not just paint it to start with?
9. Powder coat is so thick that it is sure to cause more trouble that regular paint when things are bolted together.

The attached pic of my 41 Knuckle shows some of the powder coat that I did myself. The fenders and tank and frame are spray paint. Most of the rest of the black is powder coat.
I've been painting stuff it seems my whole life and I hate it. I'm pretty good at it and can do it, but none the less I still hate the work involved. Powder coating seems like a great lazy way to avoid what I hate doing. Your points make since and I will probably go with your advice. Thanks
 
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