Predator Head Work

#1
Hey guys dropping my non Hemi head off tomorrow to get milled and reamed out for 5.5mm valves. I’m looking for suggestions on how much to mill off the head. Dyno Cam CM grind and 1.1 rockers. Thinking .030-.050 but not really experienced with doing this and would appreciate some more advise thanks!
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#2
bryan, .050 seems to be the magic number and anymore you need to take caution on milling the head or I should say on your push rod length.
 
#3
are you using a stock length rod and dished piston? Did you measure the in the hole dimension? Just trying to get a feel for your compression. Stock head is 22cc correct?
 
#4
are you using a stock length rod and dished piston? Did you measure the in the hole dimension? Just trying to get a feel for your compression. Stock head is 22cc correct?
.020 rod with flat top piston. Stock this engine was .045 in the hole so paired with a .010 gasket my piston to head clearance should be good. I got stock length pushrods for now if I need the cut to length ones so be it but I was gonna see if the stock length ones would work first
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#5
.050 off your head should get you around 18cc's and with the .020 longer rod/.010 gasket and a flat top I believe your compression should be around 11.5 I think ole4 can verify this or give you a better reading. good thing if your compression isn't any higher then that you should be able to run a 91octane ethanol free gas.
 
#6
.050 off your head should get you around 18cc's and with the .020 longer rod/.010 gasket and a flat top I believe your compression should be around 11.5 I think ole4 can verify this or give you a better reading. good thing if your compression isn't any higher then that you should be able to run a 91octane ethanol free gas.
Thanks maybe I’ll just have them do .030
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#8
I personally built a motor similar to what you are building and had no problems with .050 off the head and runs great with 91 octane.
maybe just compromise and go with .040.....lol either way I think you will be very happy with your engine setup on a minibike. just make sure you got some gearing in it. so you can pull some good rpm's. that cam with the right carb and header...etc. should pull 7000 easy.......:scooter:
 

fhpe77

Active Member
#9
Insufficient piston to valve clearance is is a terrible way to end a nice build. Be sure to check this. Recommended piston to valve clearances are:

0.080" Intake
0.100" Exhaust

Add 0.030" for aluminum rod stretch...yes they elongate when they change direction at the top of the stroke, more so than steel. They also tend to compress more at the bottom of the stroke, but that's another issue altogether and tends to help us in our pursuit for horsepower, ever so slightly.

Since we are running aluminum rods both stock and aftermarket, perhaps we should heed that advice to some degree. These rules of thumb are based on automotive engine piston masses and rod cross-sections, but we can assume a linear relationship between piston mass and rod cross-section that will scale nicely for our application.

Let's see how my build shakes out:

Predator 212 Hemi
0.020" Arc aluminum rod resulting in the piston at 0.004" in the hole.
Head cut 0.035"
0.027" MLS head gasket
To save you from doing the math, that results in a 10.6:1 static compression ratio (yes, I cc'd the head)
Black Mamba Jr. cam (0.275" lift)

Measured piston to valve clearances:

0.090" Intake
0.105" Exhaust

My build seems to be spot on for a steel rod. Add the aluminum rod correction factor in there and I'm risking a piston to valve strike (if the correction factor is to be believed). Another variable is RPM. Rod elongation increases with RPM, but it is not a linear relationship. It's an exponential relationship. Calculating these things suddenly becomes more difficult. That said, my engine lives just below 7000 RPM. This may not be enough force to elongate the rod sufficiently to cause piston to valve contact. In fact, I'd have to say that it is not enough force since inspections of the piston crown through the spark plug hole show no piston to valve contact has occurred. I'll throw this in here, make sure you have the correct valve springs and set them to the correct heights for your cam. If you can't control the valves then you are just begging for P to V interference. Remember that your static P to V measurement does not account for the spring force or valve train inertia.

Anyway, since I got everyone's ear, or in this case eyes bleeding (okay brain bleeding) with my nerd stuff, I'd like to restate my point. Check your piston to valve clearances. Do not mess this up. It is most certainly important. We need more bad-ass hotrod mini bikes out there roaming the streets.

-Ray
 
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