Questions predator engine build

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tysonsk

New Member
#1
#1
Hi,

I plan on taking the governor off my predator 212 and rebuilding the engine with new parts. Application: baja warrior

These are the items I am getting: ARC rod, ARC flywheel, BP2 Grind Predator Core Dyno Cam, #26 springs, HI COMP 14cc heads, new gaskets and mikuni carb.

Am I missing anything to my engine safe?
Will the stock tank suffice, or should I get an aftermarket tank?
How big of a difference does a high flow header make? Should I invest in a new exhaust instead of using the stock one?

Thanks in advance!
 
super nate

super nate

Member
#2
#2
I would also use the weisco piston,,,nrracing has a nice drop in rod and piston combo that works perfectly. also make sure your valve train is right . if your 212 is a gen three engine it will have split lock valve keepers and retainers. that is what you want to run. if you have the old standerd push off retainers you will need to buy stainless racing valves, retainers and keepers. also a set of roller rockers wouldn't hurt. stock rockers will work with 26lb springs but they may fail.
I use a stock tank on my 212 and I drag race it ...turn 7700 all day and I don't use a fuel pump...never ran out of gas. aftermarket tanks mount lower and require a pump so that's up to you.
some store bought headers are ok but most i've seen are too small and to short for the stroke and cam profiles used. it really depends on what you going to do with the engine...cruse around and play or race. if your just our having fun store bought is fine if your racing use the pipemax program and build the correct header for your application, stock muffler suck lol
hope this helps feel free to ask anything will help
 
ole4

ole4

#4
#4
Which predator do you have? HEMI or non HEMI. Baha warrior is a clutch and jackshaft arrangement is that what you are planning on running? What is you application just running around or what? Your parts look OK except maybe the BP2 cam. If you are going the billet route you could measure your in the hole measurement they talk to arc about the cheap flattop piston and they may have them with the same compression height or they may have the hemi flattop which has a shorter compression height and you would want a slightly longer rod for it but can you first tell us what your in the hole measurement is, then we could suggest a rod length. With a 14CC head and the correct head gasket the dish piston will still give a lot of compression with the correct deck height and head gasket thickness. You definitely want to run a open pipe. Pipemax with that cam would want a length around 27 to 30" so the only piles that would fit would need to be a bugle and that may not fit or you would have to make your own. This is for a pipe tuned to the third harmonic. The regular OldMiniBikes minibike pipes are approximately 18 to 20 inches and work off the 4th harmonic which in your application would be fine. Here is a bugle pipe I was making for one of my speedway drag bikes.
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#7
#7
It's not that it was wrong !!! It's just all over the place . He is not going to run a wiseco with roller rockers etc... Just more confusing than wrong ... But to be clear I am a jackass !!!
 
super nate

super nate

Member
#8
#8
lol you really cant be exact in giving out info unless you have all the particulars. I build each motor individually, custome to what the customer wants to do with it . my advise was general not exact because there are a bunch of different ways to go with a motor.
ps I am a jackass too lmao
you yanks should come down here and race us sometime should be a hoot
 
super nate

super nate

Member
#11
#11
well we do have a lot of people that retire or are younger looking for work that move here. I myself am a native born in punta gordia fl. there are quite a few illegals but when we find them we feed them to the gators...the gators really like us for that
 
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tysonsk

New Member
#12
#12
Sorry for the late response! I've already bought all the parts and have most of the engine together. Just missing some gaskets that are coming in the mail. The engine is a non-hemi, I plan on using it with a torque converter in my baja warrior. I just want to have something to drive around in my back yard and street that has more power than stock. I'm not trying to build an overkill race engine, my main goal in this build was just to have fun building it. The power is nice, but I just like working on my mini bike. Oh, I bought this header from OldMiniBikes https://www.OldMiniBikes.com/1-Go-K...n-Muffler-Predator-212cc.html?category_id=704
I'll try to upload some pics tomorrow. I will be able to finish the build this weekend. Hopefully it starts up easily.

Also, what's wrong with the cam I chose. It's kinda too late to change, but what's the issue with it? Also what is the "hole measurement" you were talking about? I don't quite understand. Thank you very much for your help. Again, sorry for the late response. I posted this thread and got no responses for over a week and just decided to go ahead buy the parts.
Thanks
 
ole4

ole4

#13
#13
Nothing is wrong with your BP2 cam but it was made to pass a lift rule. Being as you are using it just to drive you could have had some additional lift. It has as much duration as a black mamba just less lift and can make some good power. Being as you are going to use a torque converter the slight reduction in low end will actually help calm down the tendency to have it wheelie over if your right hand is too aggressive. The in the hole measurement is you find Top dead center where the piston is the highest in the bore. Then you use a depth gauge or even a caliper and measure how far the piston is below the top of the block. You want to measure over the wrist pin so you get a more accurate measurement. how far it is down from the top of the block is your in the hole measurement. You can adjust it with different length billet rods from ARC.
 
super nate

super nate

Member
#14
#14
don't buy a torque converter with a six inch driven pulley. it has a .9% overdrive and will pull the motor down and will not let it rev. it will act like it has a rev limiter on it . buy a torque converter with a seven inch driven pulley. it will not have the overdrive and will go one to one in high gear and allow you to rev the motor.
I have the seven inch driven pulley on my 212 it jumps off the line and will rev to 7700 with a 200lbs rider and do 53 mps in the eighth mile
 
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tysonsk

New Member
#15
#15
I will measure the hole measurement this weekend, once I have time. This is the t/c I have: h ttp://www.ebay.com/itm/191419554815 (note: I added a space between the h and ttp to follow the forum rules.
I see that it lists it having a 6" drive pulley. Where do I get a 7" pulley? Thanks for the help.
 
super nate

super nate

Member
#18
#18
if you price the parts individually youll see that that 100 dollar price is awesome!! the backing plate alone is 65 bucks the driver is 35 to 60 bucks depending on which supplier to buy from. the driven pulley is 40 bucks and up and the belt is around 25 bucks so that 100 looks pretty good to me, id take another look
 
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