Rupp TC

#2
9/16 SIZE socket counter clockwise to loosen, if its stuck on the shaft spray it with wd40 let sit for a few days keep spaying it, clean the rust off the crankshaft, don't try to slide off any if it over a rusty crank!! i use a fine sandpaper, i get the guys old belts off a crankshaft polisher, i work next door to an engine shop, & spray some more, go easy parts aren't cheap.. good luck..
 
#3
9/16 SIZE socket counter clockwise to loosen, if its stuck on the shaft spray it with wd40 let sit for a few days keep spaying it, clean the rust off the crankshaft, don't try to slide off any if it over a rusty crank!! i use a fine sandpaper, i get the guys old belts off a crankshaft polisher, i work next door to an engine shop, & spray some more, go easy parts aren't cheap.. good luck..
Here is what I'm dealing with. I have sprayed it and the shaft looks pretty clean.
 

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#4

Something isn't right there.
What is the adapter or whatever that is on the crank?
This is mine on my Rupp engine.
 
#5
The last thing you want to do is pull on the outside edge of the sheave with a puller...it will likely break. I would cut a couple of long tapered shims out of hardwood (yellow) and tap one in from each side so it is exerting light pressure from behind. You want the taper to be VERY slight...if it's too steep it will only exert pressure on the outer edge.
Then I would use a propane torch or micro torch to apply a little heat to the hub (red arrow). Hang it off the edge of the bench so you can heat it evenly all the way around. The idea being to get the hub hot but not the pto shaft itself. As it gets hot it should expand slightly...now tap on the shims lightly to see if it pops.



Good luck.
 
#8
Buy a can of Kano Kroil ...lay the motor back on it's shroud with the pulley facing up. Spray the KK into the crevice between the hub and crank. Tap the hub gently with a brass hammer...tap tap tap tap for several minutes. Spray some more...tap some more. Every time you walk past it do it again. Do this every day for several days. The idea is to get the penetrating oil to creep down between the two parts. After several days try to pop it again.
 
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#10
Well, i tried everything that I can think of. I need this thing off so I can finish the engine. It is for Rambobuilders build-off bike. I guess the only other option is to cut it off and put a new Comet 20 series on.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#11
Do you have a halfway decent air hammer in the shop? One that you can control the hit speed on with a little weight to it works good, those little cheapies are a waste of time. If you have the engine pretty solid mounted get some of the kids to hold prybars in place behind the driver (if you have some thin plate as a backer on the sidecover for the bent part of the prybars that would be good) end/tip of prybar as close to crank and against the driver center.. Heat the shaft up a bit with a plumbers torch as evenly as you can and use a block of wood between a big blunt tip bit in the air hammer and the driver shaft and work around it pretty good while the kids are applying good pressure on the prybars. sometimes the vibrations and tapping will get them to break free. Gotten a few loose that way, The air hammer and block of wood also works good sometimes freeing up frozen forks/shocks....and Old Aircooled VW door hinges :laugh:
 
#12
Well, i tried everything that I can think of. I need this thing off so I can finish the engine. It is for Rambobuilders build-off bike. I guess the only other option is to cut it off and put a new Comet 20 series on.
Support the clutch from behind. You'll probably have to use a cargo strap or lifting sling, since it looks tight. Just ensure the engine weight is being supported there.

Install the crankshaft bolt. Better if you install the entire clutch. Now with the engine supported at the clutch, whack the crankshaft bolt with a five pound hammer. I've used this method several times with success. Once without success, and I ended up cutting the clutch off.
 
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