So I am getting ready to paint my last 4 builds that I have in the shop. I've spent HOURS on the web and visiting auto paint stores trying to decide on the best and most economical way to paint them. I can not believe how expensive auto paint has become, its been a while since I last sprayed a project. After all my searching, I have decided to use Rust-Oleum oil based enamel in my gun . either the professional version or the regular stops rust, depending on color requirements. I have read that using reducer for thinning and a universal hardener for oil based enamels works pretty well. I found an old forum posting from some RC plane guys using this with excellent results. Does anyone here have any experience using this on their minis? Just looking for any suggestions from personal experience before I start. I am plan to use the Rust-Oleum branded specialty reducer and Valspar 4625 enamel hardener.
Rust-Oleum paint jobs
- Thread starter Doc1976
- Start date
Personally i don't use paint anymore. I can have a frame sandblasted and powder coated for about $100 (give or take.) I let them do it. i'm not sure that $100 is really that much more than it would cost to use auto urethane. and they handle the whole thing so i don't have to breathe that caustic paint junk.
Go for it. I shot rustoleum on to a vintage aluminum park bench I was restoring. I used basic reducer from the hardware store, and I am scratching my head trying to remember what it was. Nothing fancy. I also used catalyst from my stash of acrylic enamel supplies, and it felt cured in 12 hours. Twice as fast as if I didn't use catalyst, but far longer cure time than my urethanes or acrylics.
Your choices of reducer and catalyst sound good to me.
I found it extremely forgiving to paint with, and even when loading it up on intricate scrolling, didn't have any problems with runs. You have a very wide range of air pressure and volume allowance with it. (I use HVLP)
You will not see the level of gloss you get with a urethane coating, but it will look better than brushing it on. It would look okay on the right bike, one of the more industrial designs, like Tote Gote, and wear well. Granted, my park bench isn't getting any chain rash, but it's been out in the Arizona sun now for a year and a half, and looks great.
Looking forward to you posting some photos.
Your choices of reducer and catalyst sound good to me.
I found it extremely forgiving to paint with, and even when loading it up on intricate scrolling, didn't have any problems with runs. You have a very wide range of air pressure and volume allowance with it. (I use HVLP)
You will not see the level of gloss you get with a urethane coating, but it will look better than brushing it on. It would look okay on the right bike, one of the more industrial designs, like Tote Gote, and wear well. Granted, my park bench isn't getting any chain rash, but it's been out in the Arizona sun now for a year and a half, and looks great.
Looking forward to you posting some photos.
Ive used the rustoleum In a gravity fed gun on a few projects and they turned out good, another option thats a little less expensive than automotive paint(and depending on what color you want) is some of the tractor paints they sell at tractor supply. I painted a horse trailer with a gloss red and it still is holding up pretty good. Although some people are against using tractor paint, I guess its all on personal preference. Also, depending on how much you need, O'Reillys can mix any color and put it in an aerosol spray can for $25 bucks, thats for single stage, not sure if two stage is more, but we painted my older brothers Toyoco masher 500 with a purple we picked from O'Riellys, and we ended up using two cans, but it turned out great!
Yeah it was a 24 hr cure time Littlebear, it was called Majic Tractor, Truck and Implement Paint. Its an Oil Based and can be brushed or sprayed. Yeah It does seem to be more chip resistant to, I dont know if its the hardener that they furnish with the paint that makes it more durable or the paint itself, but not bad paint for the basic colors.
Yeah, I was going to use the majik stuff. Even had it bought and read a bunch of really bad reviews so I returned it and went with rust oleum.
Got the frame painted. Looks good but, like many have said, it is taking forever to cure. Even with the hardener, two weeks later almost and still will mark with a finger nail. However I did lay it on a little heavy to get it to flow out nice. Will post a few pics this weekend.
Got the frame painted. Looks good but, like many have said, it is taking forever to cure. Even with the hardener, two weeks later almost and still will mark with a finger nail. However I did lay it on a little heavy to get it to flow out nice. Will post a few pics this weekend.
I got it almost totally assembled today. The seat I made for it was to match the blue I originally planned to paint the bike, so I need to make a new seat cover for it. I'm pleased with how it turned out, but I may look to having frames powder coated in the future. I forgot how much work painting is. here are some shots, although these pics don't do the brightness and gloss of the paint justice.
I think the red came out good. I think you had something going on with your catalyst, or perhaps temperature. I had curing with the green above, in 8 hours. In 24, it was totally cured, but it was at least 75F. I also reduced the paint by 10% prior to shooting. At any rate, nice job, including seat. Solid looking bike IMO.