Stage 1 kit for lifan 212

Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#62
#62
Ok so I think I know what to do for the header and I have a welder buddy so I'll figure it out.
The rest is a piece of cake.
So my final question is: Can you get the engine to rev higher than stock without it being able to do 6000 rpms?
I don't want the chance of blowing my engine but I was thinking that if I ran it at about 4500-5000 rpms I would have a lesser chance.
So is there a way to govern it at that rpm. I mean they have it governed at 3600 rpms so why couldn't you get it to govern at 4500rpms?
Thanks!!
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#63
#63
Nathannewbie said:
Ok so I think I know what to do for the header and I have a welder buddy so I'll figure it out.
The rest is a piece of cake.
So my final question is: Can you get the engine to rev higher than stock without it being able to do 6000 rpms?
I don't want the chance of blowing my engine but I was thinking that if I ran it at about 4500-5000 rpms I would have a lesser chance.
So is there a way to govern it at that rpm. I mean they have it governed at 3600 rpms so why couldn't you get it to govern at 4500rpms?
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Anybody got any idea?
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#64
#64
Ok,
So I would prefer for my header to not be a leg burner and not have to cut too much of the fender out.
So instead of these designs: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KfAzws7UwVc6A4Aa7, https://photos.app.goo.gl/bjRsJvnhrRreahs18
Where it's a complete leg burner or having to cut out part of the fender, I was thinking of one of these: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2zJZU4dyR3Th6bRP7, Please help. @Charles S , @VPD66,. @TheDullCarbide i
@chipper
So it can't be super close to the ground as I go offroad a lot but I was thinking having it come through one of these places? https://photos.app.goo.gl/1cPP6q48FakhusTMA.
 
Fisher1983

Fisher1983

Active Member
#66
#66
You can use the stock muffler flange for your exhaust. Once you grind the weld down around the inlet pipe, the flange hole opens to 1 inch. Thicker steel would help, but the stocker would work. I had an idea to route the exhaust through the triangle shaped hole on the right side of the bike above the rear fender. There is a threaded boss by the luggage rack where you could attach a bracket for a pit bike muffler. You can find 1 inch high temperature silicone couplings to connect the pipes and use as sort of a flex joint. This way, the pipe will be away from legs and the CVT cover and exit cleanly out the right side. Pit bike mufflers have a nice quiet tone at idle and cruise, but rap hard when accelerating. I had one on my first Predator Hemi in 2015 and I really liked it.
 
Fisher1983

Fisher1983

Active Member
#67
#67
Another thing.....whether you leave it stock or not, jet the carb. My main jet was stamped 71 (the drill bit size....) and was super lean. Damn EPA....I went to a 70 for now and opened the pilot from a 79 to a 78 and its STILL lean. Stock Hemi Predators are richer than this one! I was wondering why the thing was running so hot and not pulling as hard as I would like....it simply needs more fuel. I also removed the charcoal canister vent tube out of the bottom of my airbox right in front of the carb throat because it was a HUGE restriction. It's a nozzle that is secured with a giant nut INSIDE the airbox. Talk about turbulence! Taped up the hole until I fill it with epoxy. Finally, theres a snap in screen on the airbox lid for air entry. I removed it. Another restriction. My goal is to get the bike running nicely on stock parts until I can build my exhaust this winter and put on a Uni filter and adapter. Then I'll jet for power.
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#68
#68
Fisher1983 said:
Another thing.....whether you leave it stock or not, jet the carb. My main jet was stamped 71 (the drill bit size....) and was super lean. Damn EPA....I went to a 70 for now and opened the pilot from a 79 to a 78 and its STILL lean. Stock Hemi Predators are richer than this one! I was wondering why the thing was running so hot and not pulling as hard as I would like....it simply needs more fuel. I also removed the charcoal canister vent tube out of the bottom of my airbox right in front of the carb throat because it was a HUGE restriction. It's a nozzle that is secured with a giant nut INSIDE the airbox. Talk about turbulence! Taped up the hole until I fill it with epoxy. Finally, theres a snap in screen on the airbox lid for air entry. I removed it. Another restriction. My goal is to get the bike running nicely on stock parts until I can build my exhaust this winter and put on a Uni filter and adapter. Then I'll jet for power.
Click to expand...
I'm going to get a stage one kit from GPS.
I just need help with the header.
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#73
#73
Ok so I'm going to order my stage one kit soon and was wondering: Normally with the stock airbox there is a line that goes from the valves to the airbox and it sucks gases that will clog the valves up back into the engine.
When you put a stage one kit on you dont have that suction anymore so the gases in the valves stay there. Isn't this a problem?
 
Fisher1983

Fisher1983

Active Member
#74
#74
Nathannewbie said:
Ok so I'm going to order my stage one kit soon and was wondering: Normally with the stock airbox there is a line that goes from the valves to the airbox and it sucks gases that will clog the valves up back into the engine.
When you put a stage one kit on you dont have that suction anymore so the gases in the valves stay there. Isn't this a problem?
Click to expand...
No....crankcase pressure comes out there. Since the stock airbox and fitting will be gone, put an automotive breather filter on it with a barb and let it vent to atmosphere. Point it up and you're good to go.
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#75
#75
Charles S said:
Make a flange from mild steel plate, it should be at least as thick as the stock exhaust flange, slightly thicker won't hurt and would make the flange more rigid, stronger. Don't go too thick, though, or you'll need longer studs. I've bought mild steel plate on eBay but there are other sources. There are DIY header kits that include 2 or 3 mandrel bends with legs (straight tubing) and a generic clone flange (that won't work for your MM, from what I've read) available on eBay and elsewhere. I bought one but never used it because I then found an NR Racing header that was just what I wanted. Individual mandrel bends in 1" are kinda' hard to find (plenty of larger dia. ones), but there are some sources. To fab a header, you wouldn't necessarily use entire bent sections; most likely you would cut pieces from them and fit them together to get what you want. You could get the most use per dollar from a 180 (you could get a 90 and a couple of 45s from it, for example). What I would do is fab the header on the bike (with proper precautions such as removing fuel tank, fuel line and carburetor). To (over) simplify it, say tack a tight radius 90 to the flange that points rearward, a short straight section (which could be a leg of the bend), then a 45 turning out to the side (to clear the frame), then another 45 to the rear, maybe adjust the two 45s to get a slight upward angle to match the rake of the luggage rack on the MM, then a straight section and muffler. Tight radius bends would, IMO, make fitting easier and result in a neater looking/less bulky header, I would especially want a tight bend at the flange to keep that first bend from sticking out too far, it will be the hottest part of the header. Easy to picture in my head, not so easy to explain. If you aren't equipped to tack as you go, I have an idea on how to work around that.

Here's a DIY kit, it has rather large radius bends; it's the only one that came up in an eBay search, surprisingly.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335845805&icep_item=192306668897

http://www.mandrelbends.com/mandrel-bends/mild-steel-16-gauge.html

A tight radius 180
https://www.verociousmotorsports.co...Verocious-180-Degree-Mandrel-Bends-Mild-Steel
Click to expand...
So I need this 45 degree pipe and was planning on getting it from the middle link you put. Is this a reputable site or just what you found online?
 
massacre

massacre

#80
#80
Nathannewbie said:
Thanks.
Click to expand...
No problem.
Just to be clear, both of my headers were modified from the versions that they show. You have to call to place an order so you can talk to them and let them know how you want the pipe made. Pipe is mandrel bent, already painted and comes with safety-wire mounting bolts. One of them I wrapped already, came out nice and sounds and performs better.
The new one is staged and I haven’t wrapped it yet.
 
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