Super Bronc Questions

#1
So I actually was able to find a Super Bronc in NJ!! Woo hoo!! I'm 99% sure its a VT10, despite the obviously non-original 8hp Tech engine. Were the VT10's the only models with the Fat tire up front (same size as the rear)?

Also, is it common for the front fender to hit on the frame at full turn? Nothing looks bent frame and forks look good. The fender ain't perfect, so maybe that's the issue, but it doesn't look that bad and there isn't a whole lot of room in there for it either way. I haven't messed with it much but it looks like the fender will hit the tire or the frame.
 
#2
Post a picture of the front end/fender.the fender could be on backwards or it has a rear fender on the front also .The VT8 came with the 21"front tire also. it was the VT 8-12
 
#4
Ah, cool. I'll snap some pics later when I get a chance. Either way, the 8HP ain't original as best as I can tell...and I've got a 10HP ready to go it :D
 
#5
Actually the early VT-10's came with the turf tire up front,everyone was ordering the large wheel option and it was a standard then,Paul you are right,the large tire on the VT-8 was an option
 
#10
You might have a VT-8,the linkage looks correct for minibike and the decals on motor are the motor has alot of the same things going on as one of my 8's,decal,carb/fuel pump,and linkakage for throttle look correct for a VT-8 ,I would guess the bike to be a 1977-1980 going by the motor alone. what is the first number after the word serial on the shroud of motor-should be HM80 ????? SERIAL ???? That number will tell you about the year of the bike,7=1977/8=1978/9=1979 and so on
 
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#11
OK, I got her out in the light today and did some poking around. After addressing the brake lever and cable, I found that the band itself is shot. The brake material wore through and the band steel itself was worn through quite a bit, so I mangled it out of there and it became obvious that I won't be able to instal the new belt the same way:

Question 1: Is there a way to swap in a new brake band without taking the whole TAV assembley apart?

I then did some comparing, and all the bands that I have are too wide. Question 2: Is there a particular brand or model of brake band that fits or do I need a band that was only made by heald and probably hard as hell to find?

I also looked under that bomb proof TAV cover and found that the driven is damaged. It functions fine but looks like this:


Its hard to see, but a piece of the ridge that the spring/C-clip locks into is missing. Question 3: Should I be concerned with this or just run it till it blows?
Question 4: What model driven do I need to buy if I want to replace this one? Its a comet setup in there, so I'm hoping parts for the new Comet TAV's will work
Question 5: What belt is in there? Mine is pretty rough


I also took a decent side shot so you can look at the fender, forks and frame. Question 6: Does everything look right or not, because the fender is definitely hitting on the plate on the front of the frame?:
 
#12
the band brake you will have to get from Powertec,Ron makes them for that size drum,you should have a 30series comet on your bike and the belt should still be good from comet,measure center to center-crank shaft to jackshaft,the front end looks correct and straight,check the bushing and bolt in the neck for wear,the lower bushing gets chewed up from the threads of the bolt.Might just be the frame neck when it was welded in place from the factory .You should be able to change out your band brake with out taking it all apart,get the band spread open and around the drum,put one of the pins in and then the other and run your brake cable through it and lock it down in the rear pin with the allen set screw. hope this helps you out some.
 
#13
As far as the fender, it looks to me like the fork bolt tube on the frame was bent back, and never pulled back forward before the braces were welded in. Thinking the rake looks off....
 
#15
OK, I took a second look at the braces on the neck and I'm 99.% sure they are original and unbent. There is nothing that indicates they were welded on after original manufacture. Also, they are not remotely distorted or bent. Neither are the frame tubes.

I'm going to keep using the TAV as is and hunt down a new driven to use as a spare.
 
#19
While waiting for the photos to fully D/L in this thread, I was subject to the full size of the photos. I could be wrong, but the fender does not look like it is mounted correctly. On mine, there are two bars that connect to the fork and hold the fender on either side. The fender looks to be sitting too high and tilted too far back and it is hard to tell from the photo on this page if it is the correct fender. Does it have an approximately 1-1/2" wide rib running down the center? I can't see the mounting holes in the photo, are there 4 of them (two on each side)? Looks like a PO may have lost the two bars and mounted the fender using one set of holes to the forks, that would push the fender back and mount it too high, I think. :confused:
 
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