TEC H50-65286H Flywheel
- Thread starter copyman
- Start date
The fact that it runs better with the choke on is indicative that you have it set up lean or in the case of an old carb a dirty passage or needle.
You'll need to start over tuning your carb with the choke off so you're getting full normal airflow.
I hardly ever have to use a choke to start an engine and never after 30 seconds to a minute just to warm up an engine.
You'll need to start over tuning your carb with the choke off so you're getting full normal airflow.
I hardly ever have to use a choke to start an engine and never after 30 seconds to a minute just to warm up an engine.
Ok. Good enough for me. If you say I should be able to get it running good with choke off will start over and do adj with choke off. Tried it but it kept shutting off every time I turned choke off. Like I said ran really good with it in middle. But I was afraid the advice here would be it's not right. And guess not good for engine?
Thanks
Thanks
I missed you put a new carb on. Did you put a fuel filter in line with the new carb? If not and you can't get adjusted to run without the choke you may have a plugged jet in the carb already (or the wrong jetting but that's not likely) . The motor must run with the choke off for the metering system to work right. i don't have specs for your carb, That being said starting set up is 1 and 1/4 turn out on adjustment screws. Idle stop screw one turn off closed (just open) make sure your throttle cable has slack (take it off). The air cleaner must be in place and clean or new.A new and properly adjusted spark plug is advised. Do not change anything else on the motor from here until the carb is optimized. Start the motor move the throttle to the place it runs the best until it warm. You should be able to turn the choke off. keep it running with one hand and adjust the idle jet screw out until the motor stumbles, then turn it in 1/4 turn. Turn the idle stop down if needed. Now adjust the main if its adjustable, bring the motor up to "fast run" and adjust to an even running condition. Now you should be close to right. Start with idle then main. You want to be on the top side of the adjustments. I have to go to LA to work on my other house for a few days so I will be off line until Sunday. Hope this helps you get close. It's easier for me to do this then to tell you how.
https://cartreatments.com/air-fuel-ratio-at-various-conditions/
https://cartreatments.com/air-fuel-ratio-at-various-conditions/
Had time to mess with bike and still some hesitation when accelerating, especially if you don't slowly turn throttle grip. Overall the bike is 80-90% running good.
I think rough running under load has to do with timing the magneto. Wanted to see if I could get the original electronics before taking to a shop and let them time it. As I posted had the stator out and did not time because I marked where it was which was maxed out to the one side so was easy to put back where it was, which I don't think was timed right to begin with!
Anyway was lucky enough to find an original heathkit TEC H50 engine with the alum flywheel & correct electronics (see pics). Waiting for flywheel tool to take flywheel off to have a look at electronics. This will really show if lucky or not.
Only thing I see not original is the carb? Pretty sure the Orig eng carb had drain button on bottom of bowl.
Had the original Comet CAT 99 clutch on it which already had a bath in rust remover and some sandpaper and it looks great! Also most of the rust from the blower housing is gone.
Once I take the electronics out will clean & de-rust outside of engine then see if worth rebuilding
One question for right now, What's the trick to get the exhaust pipe out of the head? I've let the rust blaster sit on threads for 2 days and put so much pressure on pipe it's oblong now. Won't budge. Have the lock washer backed all the way out. Don't care about double threaded pipe, can easily make one if not available. Only need the lock washer to put on my bikes pipe because it didn't have one and pipe keeps coming loose.
Maybe two questions, ha-ha. What is that loop on top of cyl head for? It connects with 2 cyl head bolts.
Thanks
I think rough running under load has to do with timing the magneto. Wanted to see if I could get the original electronics before taking to a shop and let them time it. As I posted had the stator out and did not time because I marked where it was which was maxed out to the one side so was easy to put back where it was, which I don't think was timed right to begin with!
Anyway was lucky enough to find an original heathkit TEC H50 engine with the alum flywheel & correct electronics (see pics). Waiting for flywheel tool to take flywheel off to have a look at electronics. This will really show if lucky or not.
Only thing I see not original is the carb? Pretty sure the Orig eng carb had drain button on bottom of bowl.
Had the original Comet CAT 99 clutch on it which already had a bath in rust remover and some sandpaper and it looks great! Also most of the rust from the blower housing is gone.
Once I take the electronics out will clean & de-rust outside of engine then see if worth rebuilding
One question for right now, What's the trick to get the exhaust pipe out of the head? I've let the rust blaster sit on threads for 2 days and put so much pressure on pipe it's oblong now. Won't budge. Have the lock washer backed all the way out. Don't care about double threaded pipe, can easily make one if not available. Only need the lock washer to put on my bikes pipe because it didn't have one and pipe keeps coming loose.
Maybe two questions, ha-ha. What is that loop on top of cyl head for? It connects with 2 cyl head bolts.
Thanks
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Try heating the pipe nipple with a propane torch. if that doesn't work then try mapp gas. Don't not use an oxygen acetylene torch it can melt the block and ruin it. You should also be careful with the mapp gas but it dosen't get nearly as hot as oxy/acel. Don't ask me how i know.
The loop on top hold the spark plug terminal which should be disconnected when servicing the machine the engine came on ie., tines on a tiller ,impeller on a snowblower ect. This is for safety purposes as just pulling the terminal from the plug could leave it close enough for the engine to still start. the loop hold the wire a safe distance from the plug.
Another thing take the carb off before you use a torch on the exhaust nipple.
The loop on top hold the spark plug terminal which should be disconnected when servicing the machine the engine came on ie., tines on a tiller ,impeller on a snowblower ect. This is for safety purposes as just pulling the terminal from the plug could leave it close enough for the engine to still start. the loop hold the wire a safe distance from the plug.
Another thing take the carb off before you use a torch on the exhaust nipple.
Just realized I posted a picture of a Hilltopper in this thread by mistake. I wish that new looking Hilltopper was mine but attached are some pictures of mine. It's 100% correct down to the wire type hose clamps for gas line. Speaking of gas line that is only thing that is not original, but I do have the painted white original gas line. I painted the front fender & chain guard as a test. This 1971 Chrysler paint was recommended from someone on this forum and is real close to factory paint not exposed under seat. I've already sanded a lot of rust off bike but have to completely disassemble to do it the right away. The front fender was as rusted as the rear and paint came out better than I thought. Since the paint came out really good thinking about doing whole bike.
Thanks for all the help you guys provided with this project. Already thinking about buying another Hilltopper I found 300 miles away!
Thanks for all the help you guys provided with this project. Already thinking about buying another Hilltopper I found 300 miles away!
