tecumseh Motorsports cam for the OHH #37536k any info?

markus

Well-Known Member
#1
Anyone have any info on the Motorsports cam they used in the small OHV engines? #37536k Was it anything special or just a steel, most likely non comp release, to replace the stock composite cams....or did it have a little "spring in its step" :laugh:
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#3
markus, i don't know if i can give you a straight answer or not. from what i have seen in the H50(big block)cams and only them. i would say it's really nothing special,maybe no compression relief. i believe some of the guys have said in the pass about little higher lift then stock? just hearsay:shrug: i can tell you that all newer hs-50's and ohh's steel cams with the spring/counter arm compression relief do have a higher lift then the old points motors do.
here is a ohh motorsport valve train. if you look closely it appears to have little yellow maybe on the springs and they are a single spring. base on just seeing that. it kind of tells me the cam was nothing crazy?
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#4
fistfullabar
Dave wulf put the 245 in his hs50 and delray put 256 in his ohh tec
we both installed a 255 dyno cam.........:thumbsup:
i do have a 245 dyno cam i would like to install on a flathead some day.....:scooter:
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#5
markus, i don't know if i can give you a straight answer or not. from what i have seen in the H50(big block)cams and only them. i would say it's really nothing special,maybe no compression relief. i believe some of the guys have said in the pass about little higher lift then stock? just hearsay:shrug: i can tell you that all newer hs-50's and ohh's steel cams with the spring/counter arm compression relief do have a higher lift then the old points motors do.
here is a ohh motorsport valve train. if you look closely it appears to have little yellow maybe on the springs and they are a single spring. base on just seeing that. it kind of tells me the cam was nothing crazy?
you dont happen to have the part number for the late model steel version mechanical do you? I had it and misplaced it I know they are NLA and replaced by the composite ones but I want to say I found some on ebay awhile back out of some new engine part outs from a dealer or something.

One of the OHV Motorsports cams popped up on ebay last night so I bought it. I guess if anything it will save me from grinding the comp release off the lobe for an HS :laugh: sucks you never see any literature for the Motorsports stuff, I have been watching for awhile, I dont know if they stuck it in with typical year to year engine specifications books or not in the later years :shrug:

I have a Dyno 245 on the shelf I'll have to get off my lazy ass and try to compare them when the K cam arrives. I have an H50 Motorsports engine here too, have not tore into it yet but I would like to compare that to a stock H cam when I start on it.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#6
sorry markus, i don't have the part number for the steel cam. i think now when you look it up they just though the plastic cam at you.
i purchase couple use newer steel cams in the pass off of ebay only when they post good pictures of them and both still had the machine lines going around the lobes.....:thumbsup: one of them i installed on a ohh-motor with the automotive style retainers and keepers and use a 15+ animal spring from dyno cams and has not damage the cam. also run a 50w oil with zinc. that engine now pulls good power up to 4700 rpm's..:thumbsup: also can tell you the newer steel cams can not be welded on and regrinded. so if anybody wants a cam welded you must use a older cam out of a points motor to be safe.
i did post that project build ,but photbucket F...it up.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/tecumseh/131688-tecumseh-ohh-build.html
maybe i will try to fix the thread with new pictures.....:shrug:
the 245 dyno cam is day and night compared to the stock cam.
if i ever run across anything on the ohh motorsorts engine(papers) i will let you know forsure...:thumbsup:
 
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#8
I just put together an hs50 points less motor with a billet rod no gov the Dyno 245 cam slide carb, did some port work and it has the OldMiniBikes header. I have not started it yet but it has wicked compression, I imagine it will run pretty good! Oh and I did file the flywheel key per the cam card.
 
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#9
My 245 cam card just had 245 grind and open/close data. No mention of timing. It was on a yellow indec card. On mine the compression is too stiff to pull against so I have to pull past tdc on compression then pull it to start.
 
#10
My 245 cam card just had 245 grind and open/close data. No mention of timing. It was on a yellow indec card. On mine the compression is too stiff to pull against so I have to pull past tdc on compression then pull it to start. Your motor looks sweet
 
#11
My 245 cam card just had 245 grind and open/close data. No mention of timing. It was on a yellow indec card. On mine the compression is too stiff to pull against so I have to pull past tdc on compression then pull it to start.
I just looked at the cam card again and you are right, I have built a few motors recently and this Tecumseh is not the one I filled the flywheel key on. Like you said though mine will have to be started the same way.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#12
sorry markus, i don't have the part number for the steel cam. i think now when you look it up they just though the plastic cam at you.
i purchase couple use newer steel cams in the pass off of ebay only when they post good pictures of them and both still had the machine lines going around the lobes.....:thumbsup: one of them i installed on a ohh-motor with the automotive style retainers and keepers and use a 15+ animal spring from dyno cams and has not damage the cam. also run a 50w oil with zinc. that engine now pulls good power up to 4700 rpm's..:thumbsup: also can tell you the newer steel cams can not be welded on and regrinded. so if anybody wants a cam welded you must use a older cam out of a points motor to be safe.
i did post that project build ,but photbucket F...it up.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/tecumseh/131688-tecumseh-ohh-build.html
maybe i will try to fix the thread with new pictures.....:shrug:
the 245 dyno cam is day and night compared to the stock cam.
if i ever run across anything on the ohh motorsorts engine(papers) i will let you know forsure...:thumbsup:
Thanks, I think I found the steel MCR ones on ebay, used though. I wonder if they went higher on the lift because of the decrease in valve size in later years. I'll keep an eye open for some new ones. I'll be interested how this Motorsports cam compares to the Dyno cam, Its listed for SBH-9996 through 9999 engines. They all had billet rods, K designation valves etc., so its gotta have something to it.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#13
markus i do have some good photo's of the ohh-motor i save with some numbers to go along with......:thumbsup:
motor was up for sale on ebay while back.


check the stainless valves....cool and yes tecumseh built there own billet rod for the small block. just think that would of work in a hs-40 and hs-50 too.....:thumbsup:
and rod bearings too
 
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delray

Well-Known Member
#14
here is what i found earlier this year at a swapmeet. THE HOLY GRAIL for the ohh-motor. the billet intake for it. another tecumseh factory part you really can't find anywhere. the older gentleman i purchase this from work at the tecumseh plant. also got the correct gas tilly carb and coil and looks to be some extra long lifters. might be for a flathead?
only tecumseh motor with a D port and i got it..:thumbsup:

 
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#16
I just put together an hs50 points less motor with a billet rod no gov the Dyno 245 cam slide carb, did some port work and it has the OldMiniBikes header. I have not started it yet but it has wicked compression, I imagine it will run pretty good! Oh and I did file the flywheel key per the cam card.
Rocco that motor should run well HS50's scream with the right parts and work . I have one that's pretty much stock with a few extra parts in it . The funny shaped intake port needs the most work , mine is reshaped with epoxy .
[url='http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/photopost/data/500/FDE0F951-8A98-4767-9F62-E017B0D7F880.
 
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markus

Well-Known Member
#17
I have been going through HS50's and ordering parts I need to complete engines and I didn't have any late blocks with the electronic ignition lugs (I have 3 hs40 blocks like that no 50's though) I spotted an SBH replacement block on ebay last night that Floyd's outdoor had and picked it up to do a electronic ignition build one :thumbsup:




Note its built for pre 1981 engines with a small taper flywheel crank though, I needed one of those for another HS50 I am building so for a few bucks more I got an entire new shortblock to play with. Which works out great because last week I ordered an NOS large taper ball bearing crankshaft that I was just going to use a 1981-1985 points flywheel on since the price was right.....with the other NOS Tec crank, parts, and tools I bought at the same time it worked out to about $25 shipped....from England even :biggrin:



Are you guys cutting the dippers off the ARC rods and installing the OEM dipper like the guy that used to be on here did (cant remember his name....Speedway guy) or running them they way they are :shrug:
 
#18
I run them just the way they are and both of my engines are mounted flat no angle. one of them has many trouble free hours on it, the other has not been ridden much.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#19
same here markus, don't have to cut the dipper. just watch for clearance if you use that 245 dyno cam or higher lift cam. they will still work,just have to remove little material off the crank(counterweight)and sometimes the billet rod can touch the center part of the cam(between the lobes)also can just remove little material if have too.
looks to be a good short block with the big valves and bearing cover too.
i have also purchase some ohh-stuff from that guy......:thumbsup:
i know in the past you have done alot of stock rebuilds and all. this time you you really need to build a hs-50....:thumbsup:
you will get a big kick out of it.....:thumbsup:
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#20
I run them just the way they are and both of my engines are mounted flat no angle. one of them has many trouble free hours on it, the other has not been ridden much.
same here markus, don't have to cut the dipper. just watch for clearance if you use that 245 dyno cam or higher lift cam. they will still work,just have to remove little material off the crank(counterweight)and sometimes the billet rod can touch the center part of the cam(between the lobes)also can just remove little material if have too.
looks to be a good short block with the big valves and bearing cover too.
i have also purchase some ohh-stuff from that guy......:thumbsup:
i know in the past you have done alot of stock rebuilds and all. this time you you really need to build a hs-50....:thumbsup:
you will get a big kick out of it.....:thumbsup:
thanks guys, thats been kinda a holdup with me using one of those rods, good to hear you got some run time logged on one like that Ole :thumbsup:
 
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