Unable to remove CT200U chain tensioner

[GW1]

Hi all!

I’m a new member and super happy I found your group! Hoping someone with experience can help out a desperate dad…

the arm of the chain tensioner on my son’s Coleman CT200U broke clean. The only thing remaining is the metal cylinder that the arm was attached to. It rotates freely around the stud but won’t slide off more than a millimeter before it feels like it’s hitting something. It looks like the stud is deformed slightly at the edge of the cylinder and that‘s holding it in place.

I even tried using a steele chisel that has a thinner blade shape on one end to try and pry the thing off but even several hits with a hammer had no effect.

Any ideas on ways to remove it or replace the stud it’s sitting on?

cheers,

GW

 

[SAS289]

Welcome to the forum.

You may want to get the chain and clutch out of the way to make it a little easier to get to with a tool to grab it with. Challenge is not to crimp down on it too hard and tighten it worse than it already is. Looks like something you would grab twist and pry.

Not sure how that happened in the first place. When I got my bikes I had that apart and got grease in there before the bike was ever ridden. I even took the roller off and the shaft it rides on was rusted brand new.

The stud is welded on and not removable.

Too bad you don't live close. I have an extra jackshaft assembly that I'll probably never use again. If you can't fix that or give up on it you may want to look at the torque converter option. It takes knowledge and work to get one on the bike but once complete most everyone is happy with the performance.

 

[Brooklyn Bob]

Welcome to the minibike madness!

 

[DaddyJohn]

Those things tend to wear out with the metal on metal contact of that tensioning arm and the stud it rides on. Your stud gets undersized and the hole in the arm gets oversized, so even putting a new arm on there still sees it cock sideways and not work well. Frequent disassembly and greasing helps, but this is rarely done. Good news is a new jackshaft assembly is pretty cheap ($30) from GPS. It’s probably better to get that and keep it lubed vs. messing with the current worn out parts. OR, you could get a torque converter for just a little more and have improved operation without having to mess with that crappy tensioning arm again.
https://www.gopowersports.com/colem...bxIqpP7hE1SlEwiCObsRHDGR-lROi8TxoC83YQAvD_BwE

 

[Thepaetsguy]

Those things tend to wear out with the metal on metal contact of that tensioning arm and the stud it rides on. Your stud gets undersized and the hole in the arm gets oversized, so even putting a new arm on there still sees it cock sideways and not work well. Frequent disassembly and greasing helps, but this is rarely done. Good news is a new jackshaft assembly is pretty cheap ($30) from GPS. It’s probably better to get that and keep it lubed vs. messing with the current worn out parts. OR, you could get a torque converter for just a little more and have improved operation without having to mess with that crappy tensioning arm again.
https://www.gopowersports.com/colem...bxIqpP7hE1SlEwiCObsRHDGR-lROi8TxoC83YQAvD_BwE

Is it possible op could cut the sleeve off and use a small piece of plastic as a bushing? With the new arm? I know last year my buddy’s manco had very bad spindle wobble. We cut up a Pepsi bottle into strips and slid a strip into the spindle with the bolt and after tightening everything down the spindles have been rock solid. After bashing on the thing there isn’t even any play. I mean rock solid. probably not an option here but maybe.