Unknown Clone

#1
I wanted to show you a clone that came off of a snowblower that had 110 electric start. I tried to start it but no spark. Removed the flywheel and saw that there was some minor rust on the pickup and coil, and I noticed that it had what looked like a full stator to run the lights, never seen that before? The shroud says it is 208 cc and from 2008, so i guess that is about 5.5 to 6hp. The crank is 3/4 x 3.25 inches long. The carb is too far gone to fool with. I need a pull starter assembly, carb, and the muffler. Parts I had and donated last year, figures. If anyone has these parts they want to sell, let me know. Not a clone guy, but it would be cool to see if it runs. I removed some of the covers over the carb before the pictures.
 

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#2
owend if it has the low oil sensor in the block make sure its full of oil or just simply disconnect the low oil sensor wire and see if it has spark before you replace the coil . The 208cc is more of a Predator bore but has the stroke of a 196/200 cc clone engine . Should make a great mini bike engine with the charging coils .
 
#4
Can anyone help a novice clone guy with advice on this model. I would like to keep it reliable, also add a little more power, better than stock and not having to add a billet rod. Not looking for speeds over 35 mph and I understand there are calculations about tire size, gearing and other things. I just want to know if I am wasting my time with this one and should transfer over the lighting kit to a better motor, Thanks for the help!
1) Air filter and intake swap, one that goes over the top of blower housing.
2) New carb, old one has the wrong choke location.
3) Header buildtmy own or start with a kit.
 
#5
Can anyone help a novice clone guy with advice on this model. I would like to keep it reliable, also add a little more power, better than stock and not having to add a billet rod. Not looking for speeds over 35 mph and I understand there are calculations about tire size, gearing and other things. I just want to know if I am wasting my time with this one and should transfer over the lighting kit to a better motor, Thanks for the help!
1) Air filter and intake swap, one that goes over the top of blower housing.
2) New carb, old one has the wrong choke location.
3) Header buildtmy own or start with a kit.
With the modifications you cited, that engine would suffice. You don't have any "Predator" kart racing components going in to it, just generic stuff. If it's running now, go for it. :)
 
#7
IMO,
For cheap power gains in the governed range, it's tough to beat compression and timing.
An advance key would be fine.
Thinner head gasket and/or a small chamber head swap. 14cc heads are cheap, and with a few minutes of Dremel work flow more than enough. Racers dislike the alleged shrouding, but it's not a problem at 4k. Some 1.3 stamped rockers can't hurt for the $20.
Robertson's has a nice selection of pipes. Smaller diameter and longer length will make the most power in that application.
 
#8
With the modifications you cited, that engine would suffice. You don't have any "Predator" kart racing components going in to it, just generic stuff. If it's running now, go for it. :)
I know Dave. Didn't come with a air cleaner and the exhaust is so fugly! Just some bolt on parts to keep it simple.
 
#10
IMO,
For cheap power gains in the governed range, it's tough to beat compression and timing.
An advance key would be fine.
Thinner head gasket and/or a small chamber head swap. 14cc heads are cheap, and with a few minutes of Dremel work flow more than enough. Racers dislike the alleged shrouding, but it's not a problem at 4k. Some 1.3 stamped rockers can't hurt for the $20.
Robertson's has a nice selection of pipes. Smaller diameter and longer length will make the most power in that application.
Forgot about the timing key. Any certain one that would work well with a stock set up? I consider some more work later but I need to focus on my HS 50 build. Thanks everyone for the help!
 
#11
6-8 degree key from your vendor of choice would be fine. Without the key, a quick lapping with toothpaste, Comet, or even actual lapping/grinding compound is wise, then install key. The thinner key with more offset, and the greater chance of a backfire while yanking, can allow shearing.

If you're just looking to get the filter out of the way, I doubt there's any advantage over a stock setup. Maybe open a few more holes and up the jetting, but these work. https://www.amazon.com/Kaymon-GX140...ocphy=9017069&hvtargid=pla-659402124637&psc=1
 
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