Upgrading MM E -1000 electric bikes to Lithium ion batteries.

one of the coolest setups I've seen, never thought I would be interested in an electric bike but you've got me hooked I can't wait for another episode, the step by step has been excellent since the beginning of the thread even if I don't understand half of it lol, very cool nice job,
 
Another thought ...….

Imagine setting it up as a 2 speed. ;)
Make a drag bike frame ect.
Using a 2 speed jackshaft is the perfect brain storm! Lower amp draw during hole shots or on hills and more driving range! Less strain on the whole electrical system with the lower amperage, the high speed of your drive motor gives you great drive options. My opinion is go for it!!!
 
One downside to consider is most of your regenerative braking would be lost when the high speed clutch is not in use, the low speed clutch would freewheel as you coast down to stop. Hydraulic disc brakes.;););)
 

I74

Well-Known Member
one of the coolest setups I've seen, never thought I would be interested in an electric bike but you've got me hooked I can't wait for another episode, the step by step has been excellent since the beginning of the thread even if I don't understand half of it lol, very cool nice job,
Thank you ''minibikefever'', that means a 'lot !! :)
 

I74

Well-Known Member
One downside to consider is most of your regenerative braking would be lost when the high speed clutch is not in use, the low speed clutch would freewheel as you coast down to stop. Hydraulic disc brakes.;););)
Thanks for your replies & input Mariah.:)
 

I74

Well-Known Member
Wife & I are ''still'' going to hit the road in a 5th wheel home on wheels,, probably within the next few years...
If anybody would be ''seriously'' interested in a land speed record electric project ect. & like my help,, we could travel & meet up any where in the US lower 48.;)
I
 
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OR- run one motor to get up to speed- high torque, small batt bank, then use a larger bank to turn a high RPM motor using both sides of the jack shaft. Or do like I am doing and run a sprag type of rear wheel sprocket. (only regenerative effects felt are when backing the bike)

No controller, straight switches. My thought is that with the versatility of these systems, it is possible to reduce or remove inherent resistance in drive systems such as mini bike clutches. Straight drive is the way to go.

There are no sanctioned speed events for bikes with wheel diameters of less than 15" from what I recall. Mini bike wheels are definitely too small for current rules. That has been true for years now. It is unfortunate, but in reality the current "mini bike" drag records "seem" to involve a whole bunch of cubic inches and 15" tires. In reality, that mini bike frame with six inch wheels, and a guesstimated rake and trail for aesthetics with a bolt running through a piece of DOM is good for about a wobbly 45 MPH. :) With the torque easily available with electrics, you're looking at breaking the drive wheel loose mid track.

IMO, the move with electrics Ian "ought" to involve more standard drag frames, Jr. dragster front rims, with an eye towards shaving pounds one gram at a time, and of course technology. At any rate, your work on these bikes have spurned more than the passing interest from several here, as well as myself- as you know. My two cents worth. Thanks for posting your projects here and thanks for allowing me to post my two cent's worth.
 

I74

Well-Known Member
Thanks Dave, & interesting stuff. :)
I wouldn't even think of attempting a special purpose discipline without a ''very'' stout custom drag frame & components ect.
I like the idea of the JR. dragster wheels ect.. ;)

P/S,,
Is that 15'' rule,, rim dia. or tire dia. ??
 
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Thanks Dave, & interesting stuff. :)
I wouldn't even think of attempting a special purpose discipline without a ''very'' stout custom drag frame & components ect.
I like the idea of the JR. dragster wheels ect.. ;)

P/S,,
Is that 15'' rule,, rim dia. or tire dia. ??
Rim diameter- and you'd have to double check. "Neck" who used to be on here has been involved for a few years now in the lake racing scene and relayed the story on the rules to me-

Another thought: So much of a "motorcycle" frame is dedicated to housing an engine. This includes oil and fuel feeding, sumps, and PTO "side" as it relates to rotation of torque. With an electric propulsion system, you have none of that. It is an excellent opportunity to think way out of the box, such as carbon fiber in vacuum bags for a monocoque construction- single tube, etc. etc.
 

I74

Well-Known Member
Love carbon stuff Dave.;)
We use it ''a lot'' for R/C applications,, especially vacuum bagging composite ''hi stress' competition sailplane wings ect.
 
well in performance motorcycles 75% of your stopping power is in the front wheel. of course your not building a racing machine. but its a cool build!! for sure .
 

I74

Well-Known Member
well in performance motorcycles 75% of your stopping power is in the front wheel. of course your not building a racing machine. but its a cool build!! for sure .
I was ''more so'' stressing the point of the importance of braking with the rear first.
My Shovelhead chopper of 20+ years,, I diffused a few potential bad accidents with ''cages'' pulling out in front of me ect. by just using the back brake & basically sliding the bike sideways.:eek:
 

I74

Well-Known Member
Been getting after it the last couple of days.
Still waiting on the throttle,, & Fred to get me the risers back that he's polishing.
Just have some minor small wire soldering ect. left, & string the control wires & brake cable ect.

The only suck thing about building stuff for people is, that when it's all said & done,,, it a heart breaker to see it leave.
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I74

Well-Known Member
Got it all buttoned up & took it for a short - ''chilly'' eve. test ride.
It frigg'n flies !!
You have to lean forward pretty good when taking off & pussy foot the throttle,, to keep the front end down.
It is smoother than my O'l ladys electric & handles better, partially due to the even lighter weight, better tires,, & lower center of gravity.

Wouldn't say it's quite as quick as my GX-200, but it is definitely every bit as fast!

Pic. with the side door open shows the ''slick'' batt. charge/test lead config. I came up with.
The leads are secured solid. ;)
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I74

Well-Known Member
Got a priceless FYI tip for everyone. :)

The motor on Fred's bike ran backwards when I first hooked it up in the default config.

Super simple to correct the problem by connecting the blue & yellow main motor/controller phase wires together.
Just connect blue motor wire to the yellow controller wire, & the blue controller wire to the yellow motor wire.

You also ''must'' have to,, ''carefully'' remove the yellow & green connector pins on the Hall sensor harness connector, & swap those positions in the connector,, then you are good to go !!

If you ''just'' swap the phase motor leads like on a R/C brushless motor,, you can smoke the controller & motor.

The controller on the O'l lady's bike has a self learn system in it ,unlike Freds controller.
All you had to do there, is momentarily touch the 2 self learn wires together that come out of the controller.
Only have to do that though if it initially runs backwards, ours didn't.

I
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I74

Well-Known Member
Me & Fred plan on an electric cruise Mon. or Tues. aft, as it's supposed to be in the lower 60's.
Get while the gettin's good. ;)
 
You can't imagine the confusion in the mind of someone who worked with three phase AC on aircraft for 20 years, seeing "phase A, B, and C" on a DC system.

On the motor/controller you recommended for me, switching directions is as easy as swapping DC outputs from the controller, and is detailed in the translated Chinese instructions. :)

The bike looks good. I hope you guys will shoot some videos of them running.
 
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