What does this rim go to?

#1
Based on the condition of the paint I would think it is original. It has a blue line on one side which I am guessing that it either had a sprocket on the white only half at one point or it was on a kart where only one side mattered. 5”? Also you will notice that there is a little more material on about a third just outside where the bearing sits. Made me think of a wheel weight but its part of the rim. Odd that its only on one area of each half. Thoughts?
 
#6
Do you think I should bead blast it or leave whats left of the original paint? I will add it to my wheel collection that someday I will sell off to buy crypto currency...lol
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#8
Yeah, those Fun Kart wheels have the little extra weight on the hub. I think extra weight was added so they could key them for live axles.
 

pomfish

Well-Known Member
#10
Not to hijack this thread but I see that Strokerace has a set of 4" Rupp Turbine wheels for like $299?
I have a set of these on a cart, not in this pristine condition ( at least not known now as they have not been cleaned up), but non the less are they really that valuable/desirable?
If so daddy is a happy camper tonight :)

Looks like I need to brush up on some go cart history.
The same cart has 5" Go Power's keyed Type One the rear, those I know are keepers or sellers.
Thanks,
Later,

Keith
 
#11
but non the less are they really that valuable/desirable?
(Since it looks like Andy has answered Randy's wheel question, I'll help hijack) :)

It's not easy to find serviceable 4" turbines and outer rims. The 1963-64 Rupp Dart, Grand Prix, and Grand A used them. Finding them without stripped stud holes is even more difficult. The Grand Prix (for one) might have used them in 65 as well. Note these karts used the 5" turbine in the rear.

The price Stroker Ace has them listed for is probably at the top of the scale but then so is the condition. I just had four of the outer rims chromed, aluminum cleaned, and purchased OEM studs and nuts and it wasn't far off of that Ebay price tag. Most valuable to those restoring vintage karts listed above, who probably use more modern and plentiful wheels to vintage race with.
 

pomfish

Well-Known Member
#12
Thanks Dave,
Appreciate the info.
I probably would not try to get them apart and would leave that to the next owner with more experience of getting them serviced without damage.
Cool looking carts they made for the era for sure.
Later,
Keith
 
#13
Thanks Dave,
Appreciate the info.
I probably would not try to get them apart and would leave that to the next owner with more experience of getting them serviced without damage.
Cool looking carts they made for the era for sure.
Later,
Keith
Manco wheels have always been easy to get apart, I've often found the set pins on the sprocket wheel almost exclusively on karts are busted and fall out when apart. I chalked it up to a curb check incident somewhere along the way. The sprocket bosses can crack however, especially if there is corrosion present outside. I'm somewhat of an expert on Manco wheels it seems, especially when it comes to counting wheel halves. A little humor about a recent purchase.:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
 

pomfish

Well-Known Member
#14
Manco wheels have always been easy to get apart, I've often found the set pins on the sprocket wheel almost exclusively on karts are busted and fall out when apart. I chalked it up to a curb check incident somewhere along the way. The sprocket bosses can crack however, especially if there is corrosion present outside. I'm somewhat of an expert on Manco wheels it seems, especially when it comes to counting wheel halves. A little humor about a recent purchase.:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
Ace,
I was speaking of taking apart the 4" Rupp Turbine wheels.
Sorry of the confusion there.
Thanks,
Keith
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#15
Based on the condition of the paint I would think it is original. It has a blue line on one side which I am guessing that it either had a sprocket on the white only half at one point or it was on a kart where only one side mattered. 5”? Also you will notice that there is a little more material on about a third just outside where the bearing sits. Made me think of a wheel weight but its part of the rim. Odd that its only on one area of each half. Thoughts?
They (Manco) had a red white and blue themed fun kart at one time, maybe the drive wheel off that :shrug:
 
#18
Ace,
I was speaking of taking apart the 4" Rupp Turbine wheels.
Sorry of the confusion there.
Thanks,
Keith
No problem. I've done 6" Rupp Turbines, dissimilar metal is a bear to fight on those and a few others. Cat wheels seem to fuse together over time, I've only gotten lucky with a set once but the bike was not well used.
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#19
Ace,
I was speaking of taking apart the 4" Rupp Turbine wheels.
Sorry of the confusion there.
Thanks,
Keith
I have never taken apart a 4" set, but on the stubborn 6" sets, I deflate the tube, remove the acorn nuts and reinflate the tube ever so slowly, a few pounds of pressure at a time. A few light taps with a mallet on the tire surface usually persuades them to pop apart. If not, add a few more pounds and repeat. I've never had a set fail to agree with my persuasion.

I know there is inherent danger anytime you're adding pressure to a two piece rim, but with only a few lbs at a time, I figure the risk is very low
 
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