What oils are we using FHS, Royal Purple, synthetic, standard
Straight 30 weight (classic lawnmower oil) since these air cooled engines run way hotter than car engines and the like.
A lot to be said for synthetics -and- using them in engines which see only occasional use. It it my understanding that synthetic oil keeps a thin film on the moving parts long after dino oil has drained back into the sump thus there's no real "dry start" with synthetic oils.
A lot to be said for synthetics -and- using them in engines which see only occasional use. It it my understanding that synthetic oil keeps a thin film on the moving parts long after dino oil has drained back into the sump thus there's no real "dry start" with synthetic oils.
Come on you guys? .... I was hoping to be entertained by another on line "which oil is best" debate. :smile:
But when you think about it, it is not very debatable because if you change the oil soon enough, quality of oil shouldn't really matter that much for these small engines.
I use crappy dollar general oil in my clones that are used on seasonal equipment. My mini bike and generator clones get better quality oil. Last year I changed the oil on my push leaf blower clone for the first time in 7 years. I ended up saving that oil to use in the oil can because it looked so good. Didn't even change colors. And it was cheap dollar general oil.
But when you think about it, it is not very debatable because if you change the oil soon enough, quality of oil shouldn't really matter that much for these small engines.
I use crappy dollar general oil in my clones that are used on seasonal equipment. My mini bike and generator clones get better quality oil. Last year I changed the oil on my push leaf blower clone for the first time in 7 years. I ended up saving that oil to use in the oil can because it looked so good. Didn't even change colors. And it was cheap dollar general oil.
For break-in I used some Valvoline 10w-30 synthetic racing oil (high zinc, supposedly). I know, people say it lubricates too well for a break-in oil, but it seems to have worked pretty well. Just changed it this morning for the first time & it seems to have done the job. I'm going to run it the entire time I use this motor. Will get back with the thread when the motor gives up, but it's new so don't hold your breath.....
standard, I figure it doesnt really matter, the engine is not pressure lubricated, and no filter. I run wall-mart 15w-40, 20w-50 or good ol straight 30wt. what ever is on sale and change it often, trying to avoid microscopic particulate buildup.
My gx200 on the minibaja is coming up on 100 hours runtime. Just for fun im gonna pull it down for inspection, (and maybe a bigger cam). Even running hotter and higher stresses from being hopped up, I have a sneaking suspicion wear will be comparable to or less than engines run on synthetic oil.
My gx200 on the minibaja is coming up on 100 hours runtime. Just for fun im gonna pull it down for inspection, (and maybe a bigger cam). Even running hotter and higher stresses from being hopped up, I have a sneaking suspicion wear will be comparable to or less than engines run on synthetic oil.
AMSOIL Z-Rod 10W30: AMSOIL Z-ROD® 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
That is an excellent article. Anyone who is a "gear head," has seen the raging oil debates. In this article, the guy posts some startling facts based on his testing.
I recommend reading paragraphs 13 through 16 for some down and dirty comparisons of shear strength and temperatures.
Thanks for posting this.
I recommend reading paragraphs 13 through 16 for some down and dirty comparisons of shear strength and temperatures.
Thanks for posting this.
