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  1. #21
    Senior Member jeffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by control4userguy View Post
    Didn't say they were bad. I just find it amusing that so many folks have a distaste for squirt-start carbs. If you like a choke plate in the airstream and the chance or two you forget to flip the lever back then go for it.
    The old carb was toast, and the recommendation on here seemed to be to go with the carb with more adjustability. I guess we'll see how it goes, I don't have any experience with these engines.

  2. #22
    Senior Member jeffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles S View Post
    A simple solution! (like your excellent suggestion in another recent thread: https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/t...ml#post1150466 ) If there's no reason to not move the engine to the left, this should be easy.
    Thanks guys, I'm up for a simple solution, but moving the engine over that much puts it on the frame rail. And I'd have to extend the foot peg on that side...

  3. #23
    Charles S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffe View Post
    Thanks guys, I'm up for a simple solution, but moving the engine over that much puts it on the frame rail. And I'd have to extend the foot peg on that side...
    Understood. An outboard bearing wouldn't be too difficult; a plate to hold the bearing and top & bottom plates to attach it to the TAV plate (plus the mechanical parts) for keeping it simple. Of course, you could make a more elaborate wrap around TAV cover with a bearing carrier if you wanted to.
    "If it ain't red, leave it in the shed!"

  4. #24
    Senior Member jeffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles S View Post
    Understood. An outboard bearing wouldn't be too difficult; a plate to hold the bearing and top & bottom plates to attach it to the TAV plate (plus the mechanical parts) for keeping it simple. Of course, you could make a more elaborate wrap around TAV cover with a bearing carrier if you wanted to.
    It's a cool idea, I'll do some figuring tomorrow. I have noticed , though, that one of the cover mounting holes is nearly tapped through the side of the plate, so I wouldn't put much faith in them.

  5. #25
    Raskin's Avatar
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    i see what you're saying..the frame narrows as it goes forward towards the peg so not much room ..i was just thinking of my pmr jshaft and noriced the sprockets are on the end also ..so maybe your setup will be ok as is..IMG_20171115_203803.jpg IMG_20171207_074702.jpg
    Last edited by Raskin; 12-07-2017 at 08:48 AM.

  6. #26

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    The PMR sprockets are next to each other. That is fine. The problem with the sprocket being outside of the torque converter is the leverage factor. It is a few inches away from the bearing which applies a lot of bending force. Plus the strengthening ribs on the aluminum backing plate where ground away. That produces a weak spot in that casting and it will break there.
    Someone mentioned a good solution. Extend the shaft and put a bearing on the end of the shaft outside of the sprocket. You would have to make the mounting plate adjustable fore and aft so it can be moved when you move the engine fore and aft.
    Another way would be to do away with the aluminum backing plate and put in a permanent jack shaft with the torque converter on it. Since the rear axle is hard mounted you would have to fab up a chain tensioner also.
    I'm sure there are more ways, it just requires thought and planning.
    JMO Danford1
    Last edited by danford1; 12-08-2017 at 12:24 AM.
    Time is the best teacher. Unfortunately it kills all of its students.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffe View Post
    The original gearing was 13:1, well 12.96:1. 10-24-10-54 , the tires are 22"
    Good for our rooty trails :)

    And moving the engine over that far would almost put it outside of the frame, with the fat tires..
    What are the sprocket sizes now with the torque converter?

    Danford1
    Time is the best teacher. Unfortunately it kills all of its students.

  8. #28
    Raskin's Avatar
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    The trailmaster mb200-2 has a tube welded to the frame that holds the bearings and shaft that the driven is mounted to..i was surprised..guess is a good idea coz the weight is not on the engine cover because there is no tc plate.IMG_20171207_130158.jpg
    Last edited by Raskin; 12-07-2017 at 02:06 PM.

  9. #29
    Senior Member jeffe's Avatar
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    Thanks, guys, for the suggestions, ideas and pictures
    Danford1, the sprockets will still be 10-54, so, with the 2.7(?) to 1 of the Tav it would be 14.58:1 in low 'gear'. I'll move the spring to keep it in low longer, it really doesn't need to go 40 mph... if this engine would even get it there... :)
    I ground about 1/8" off the fins, just where the pulley rides, but yeah, I can understand the amount of leverage on the shaft, plate and engine side cover.... from my bent 1/4" plate... :) Although it was more flexible than this aluminum plate.

 

 
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