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  1. #21
    Richard Trotter's Avatar
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    Tote Gote used bicycle grips, levers and cables on their machines. The model VS was the second model developed and they probably hadn't decided on a single vendor for those parts. Your gote is probably original, judging from the condition and completeness.

  2. #22
    Member jforb427's Avatar
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    That's the feeling I get, too.

    Now, for that pesky clutch....I would like to get it to work smoothly, which probably requires removing it and taking it apart and cleaning stuff. Are there any sure fire methods to get the clutch off safely? I can build a puller for it, if needed.

  3. #23
    Member jforb427's Avatar
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    I remembered I have a bearing separator that might be big enough, so I got that on the clutch, and was able to pull it off. The outer half, at least. I still want to remove the inner half, but that might wait until I take the engine apart? I do need to get the rust off the cone, so it won't eat the belt. Anyways, I couldn't find any pics of one of these things taken apart, so now there is a picture of one of these things taken apart. The little clips that hold the springs on are fun, just pry them up, stick some needlenose pliers underneath to hold the spring, and slip them off the end of the spring. The last one that does not have a slot in it, works the same way, which was not obvious to me at first.

    I probably need some new balls, these are a bit rusty. I'll blast the rest of it to clean it off, and I might spin the cone in the lathe to polish it up some?

    deepco2.jpg

    deepco1.jpg

  4. #24
    Richard Trotter's Avatar
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    New balls may be available, measure diameter. Try to find ball bearings, grade 25 chrome. Only use dry Moly, high temp lube such as Max Torque. https://www.ombwarehouse.com/max-tor...lubricant.html

  5. #25
    Member jforb427's Avatar
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    Thanks.

    I decided to try to polish the balls, I chucked one up in the lathe, and ran sandpaper on it...seems to work. But it takes a while. I know I can buy new ones....they're just 3/4" steel balls (the mic says 0.7500")

    I was able to remove the inner cone. I had squirted some penetrating lube on it, then tapped the hub a few times, and noticed that the liquid was moving in and out of the crack between the hub and shaft...so it was not rusted solidly to the shaft. I used the two jaw puller (I had previously thinned the jaws to fit some other project), and off it came. Cleaned up the cones in the lathe, they have some rust pitting, but mostly look shiny now. It might all work, I guess I'll find out in a little while.

    I need a new belt, though. Still researching the size.

  6. #26
    Member jforb427's Avatar
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    Polishing the balls worked fine. They roll now. Just needed to remove the rust from them. I put it all back together, and went for a little ride...the clutch is happy now, it speeds up and slows down like it should. The carb drips, but it seems to run mostly ok. I guess that's the next part that needs attention.

    I also found the serial number. B for Bonham?

    serno.jpg

    deepco3.jpg

    Oh...belt size...appears to be 5/8" top width, around 40" long?
    Last edited by jforb427; 02-05-2017 at 03:47 PM.

  7. #27
    Richard Trotter's Avatar
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    Early Tote Gote

    These early photos show Ralph Bonham with a model VS.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #28
    Richard Trotter's Avatar
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    Member 'Davis' said it was OK to post his pic of a VS. This is the most original, complete survivors I've seen.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #29
    Member jforb427's Avatar
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    Thanks, very helpful! I wonder what serial number Davis' bike is?

    It sure looks like there was some variety on these things, as far as a few of the smaller parts. The seat on the old picture of the bike on it's stand, looks like what mine has. Black all over. The pegs on the two in the brochures I've seen have the light colored pegs like mine, and the brake levers in the one on the blue brochure, and on another one I found pics of on the internet, match the levers on mine. The wheel colors seem to vary, also. Mine appear to be silver, where the paint is still intact on the rear wheel.

    I wonder what they had for the kill switch originally, maybe the springy lever next to the spark plug? Mine has the wiring connector next to the tappet cover, but no evidence anywhere of a switch. And no evidence of a springy lever, either, since it would have been painted with the engine, right? Strange.

    I took my carb apart, it was dirty, but looks like it will clean up ok. Not much wear. Ordered a kit for it. I also ordered the belt that I think is the right size, we'll see if it fits/works. It's rather confusing....

    I removed the engine, and did a little cleaning. Sure is a nice bright red under the engine (and on the underside of that plate, also). The engine mount bolts are black steel, no rust on them, because the leaking oil preserved them perfectly.

    frame01.jpg
    Last edited by jforb427; 02-06-2017 at 05:03 PM.

  10. #30
    Senior Member Davis's Avatar
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    Mine is in the low 200s on the serial # and the B is not for bonham it's the model.

 

 
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