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  1. #21
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    Well, thats good news. I've not had a HS40 where the stator frame wasn't fully clocked CCW. I still think it's not wise to follow the manual method. Adjusting the frame and tightening two bolts seem, to me, less "granular" than tweaking the point gap and listening/watching a meter.

  2. #22

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    When you set the stator full CCW and lock it down, do you ever move it from there or just leave it full CCW?

    I'm trying to understand this better. I must have been one lucky SOB for the last 50 years or so...
    I just eye-balled the point gap to what looked right to me and they always ran great. I Never got the piston at 0.035" then adjusted points until then just opened. Now I'm wondering if all these years I was leaving some performance on the table by not fine tuning the point gap. I would say 9 times out of 10 I just moved the stator full CCW just to advance the timing as much as it could be. I never thought about having the exact point gopening at 0.035" down... Learn something everyday... Of course I never looked at or owned a Tecumseh shop manual.

    Come to think of it I did have a couple instances where an engine would have a slight hesitation going from idle to WOT but I just figured it was carb related. I would just be more gentle coming off idle. Do you guys mean it was point gap related?

    Danford1
    Last edited by danford1; 05-13-2017 at 10:11 AM.

  3. #23
    OND's Avatar
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    Hey Dan, yes you are on the right track.... Or maybe its just to early !
    Last edited by OND; 05-13-2017 at 10:31 AM.
    Lil Indian, Ruttman, DB30, Warrior, lil Bill, EZ Rider, Savage SSC , Powell, BONANZA

  4. #24
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    ^^Dan, that's the point made here. It's not critical. In fact, for me it has been impossible to adjust to critical gap. But, I'm not talking about throwing the 0.020" breaker point gap out the window. It's there for a reason and that is so the capacitor can fully discharge. Timing of spark doesn't change- still at (for example) 0.030~0.040" BTDC for the HS40. All this aside, the points need to open at 0.035" BTDC. If they don't and the frame is fully clocked over then you must go to work on the points.

    It is possible to achieve a high-energy, blue spark down to 0.014" point gap. I thought someone said they did OK even at 0.012" gap...
    Last edited by control4userguy; 05-13-2017 at 12:23 PM.

  5. #25
    Senior Member JohnnyTillotson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fasttony View Post
    Shoulder bolts with wave spring washers, washers on those, threaded adjustment rod w/lock nut, swivel, ........ I didn't adjust it while driving just on the stand then drove it, it's not hard to do, some hardware from McMaster-Carr, I made 2 complete setups I still have the parts in my stuff somewhere, stock performs good no need for it.

    Tony
    I'm not getting this at all. I don't understand how you can move the magneto, let alone very small increments, while it is under a spinning flywheel. Not to mention can you touch that thing while its running without getting the shock of your life. Even if it isn't with your hand but metal tools. I'm not saying you can't do it but need a better visual to understand this, if you have the time. Just draw it and snap a pic and post it.

  6. #26
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    The magneto was held in place with shoulder bolts that bottom out on the shoulders leaving enough room for wave springs and flat washers, now the magneto can be rotated within the slots, this was a precision fit just enough space and spring tension holding down the magneto to let it rotate but not move enough to contact the inner flywheel. Add a threaded linkage from under the back side of the magneto out thru the left side of the shroud mounting plate and shroud (these parts are behind the flywheel) the threaded linkage attaches to the magneto with a custom made 90 degree fitting held on to the magneto by an E ring, (self aligning adjusting rod) the other end of the threaded adjusting linkage threads thru a welded nut on the inner side of the shroud mounting plate and extends out so it can be adjusted with the engine running. IIRC the shoulder bolts were different lengths. I suppose if someone wanted to get more creative it might be possible to ad timing marks and check it with a timing light. I have two Rupp Roadster2's I made two setups in case I wanted to modify both bikes, I didn't see the need to leave them in place stock timing runs good.

    Tony

  7. #27
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    This is the adjustable timing setup less the magneto, the only mod to that is a hole for the adjustable linkage, the magneto is still in use on the bike.

    HS_40 Adjustable Timing.JPG

  8. #28

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    Did you also try lengthening the slots on the magneto to give more advance than the stock slots allow?

    Danford1
    Last edited by danford1; 05-19-2017 at 11:12 PM.

  9. #29
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    Yes I cleaned up the slots a little IIRC the timing could be advanced .060" BTDC, I had it set at .055" BTDC at one time before the adjustable setup, at coasting speeds the engine sounded like it was rattling or the rod was lose. The adjustable setup was to see if there was any better torque on hills or higher RPM's, I don't have any dyno results just driving I didn't notice any difference. Riding my Rupp around under powered isn't safe, the best way to get more power and torque is change to a bigger engine I will have Tec 10 HP conversion completed in the next few weeks that will fix it.

    Tony
    Last edited by fasttony; 05-20-2017 at 08:44 AM.

 

 
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