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I just did some testing. Engine off 12.2 volts, idling and revving up only 12.39 volts. Then I disconnected the charging system from the battery and it reads 12.4 up to 70 volts dc when I rev it up. Then just to get a feel for the amperage output I connected the charging wire to an automotive...

The one that came with the electric start engine, it has the internal magnets

I don't have a regulator and I don't think any of the honda/clone electric start model do either. Here is a diagram I found online . I was told by a local small engine repairman that the battery acts as the regulator since there is fairly little current. I tried putting this pic here but can't...

I want to double the amperage. How do I know if the coil are magnetically in phase, these coils are made for these engines. Right now I have it so each coil goes to it's own rectifier then directly to the battery. Is there any problem with this. I got rid of the key switch and used a double...

I have a 6.5hp electric start clone and added a second charging coil so there are 2 under the flywheel now. This engine came with a small diode and the coil I took from a honda 9hp had a small rectifier. Should I keep both independent of each other and then splice them together after their...

The metal in the oil was extremely fine, like baby powder, not grit to it at all.

Exact same color, 2 things I noticed on this that are different from many other cones I have seen are that the fuel tank has a gauge built in to it and the air cleaner cover has a primer bulb. Here are some pics of the exhaust lifter and cam. The lifter looks like like it has stress marks or...

The engine is from Wajax industrial components, it is called a JF200. Any suggestions on what size to change the jet to? I also just changed the driven sprocket down 2 teeth and he is getting 25mph, smiling ear to ear, quite an improvement over the 8mph they come stock with the 120cc governed...

I got it all back together and it is working great, lots of power and got the 20mph back BUT it climbs to 20 then drops off a bit after 2-3 seconds, if I let off the throttle and then accelerate it will climb back up powerfully and then drop a bit. Is this a sign that I need a bigger jet? I have...

Now it is very confusing, I just measured my stock valve springs and the new 18 lb springs. My stock ones with the shims (0.100") compressed length is 0.498" and the new 18lb compressed length is 0.581" so the new 18lb are more apt to coil bind than my stock ones with the shims. If 18lb ones are...

The main reason I did this swap was for the electric start so my son could start it by himself. This means I have to keep the stock flywheel with the ring gear and internal charging magnets. If I can get a little more out of the engine by removing governor and replacing springs then that is fine.

I got it all apart and think I found the problem, as I said before the exhaust valve's stroke looked much less than the intake valve's. I took the cam out and here are the measurements. The intake lobe's narrowest is 0.867" and the peak of the lobe is 1.088" the exhaust's narrowest is 0.867" as...

That is the only other thing I did not check, do I just look for a sheared key? Is there any other way it could get out of ignition time? If it was out of time would it still start, idle and run but just not have the power and high rpm it should?

OK, I just received my new Honda 18lb valve springs (G200 part) and installed them and nothing, no improvement at all, I can't describe how frustrating this is. One thing I noticed is that with the valve cover off the exhaust valve operated twice as fast as the intake while I am turning the...

The part of the valve stems the touches the retainer was mushroomed a tiny bit, just enough to prevent them from being removed, is this a sign of floating.

But what does floating do? Prevent higher RPM or risk hitting the piston? I have all the tools, it is that the engine sits in the chassis right next to a bulkhead and even if you could get the flywheel cover bolts out you would never be able to move the cover away from the engine. Plus no room...

Oh yeah just so I understand this correctly, are the 18lb springs used to enable the engine to acheive higher RPM or do they just prevent damage while it is reving higher.

I was thinking something along those lines about the valve springs losing their strength, I have a set of 18lb one on order. Before I dive into the timing issue (which will involve removing engine which is a PIA) would it give my symtoms, as I understand it doesn't it give you more in either...

I did a leak down test and was showing 10% leakage and the air was coming from the intake. I lapped the valves and now it is only showing 4%. I set the valve lash and am still not getting the power it had when new approx 10 hours of use ago. This is driving me crazy. I did not check the flywheel...

No, it was tight and gaskets are good