I had mine put together wrong and kept throwing the belt. I will get you a picture in a few. I did figure it out. I don't know about clocking the spring 3 times but I didn't do that and it works like a champ. I put the spring in the center hole. Didn't notice what hole it was in when I took it apart.:laugh:
Oops...ya sorry I am more of a hands on and not so great with words. But like capguncowboy said...you wind it 3 times for correct pressure for the driven clutch to engage. I haven't done one in a long time...but it is not fun. And Karen...I never heard of not doing it. Maybe a Rupp expert will weight in and give us the scoop.
Maybe this will help a little,
you only preload these past the first ramp for tension. the thee holes are for fine tuning, one in the middle would be the "all around setting" the hole that will make the spring tension tighter when you assemble will make it engage at higher rpm, and the hole that makes it the loosest when assembling will make it engage sooner.
If the above scan does not come out legible enough just pm me your email and I will forward it, its an actual full size scan but photobucket does not let them blow up to full. Its from a mini bike service manual (like a chiltons for mini bikes, so info is vague and usually confusing :laugh
you only preload these past the first ramp for tension. the thee holes are for fine tuning, one in the middle would be the "all around setting" the hole that will make the spring tension tighter when you assemble will make it engage at higher rpm, and the hole that makes it the loosest when assembling will make it engage sooner.
If the above scan does not come out legible enough just pm me your email and I will forward it, its an actual full size scan but photobucket does not let them blow up to full. Its from a mini bike service manual (like a chiltons for mini bikes, so info is vague and usually confusing :laugh