no dont trust it, its best to mike the piston size and bore off that number. I know on the H35s....2.5" bore i end up at 2.508 for a ten over finished size, not 2.510 like youd think.... the cylinder wears more towards the top. Use of a ball hone, or three finger spring loaded hone will not allow you to get the bore straight. so its best to use a boring bar, or for aluminum bores you can hone to resize but it takes special equipment to do it correctly, a micrometer type hone like a sunnen AN will allow you to resize aluminum bores with the proper stones, you will be able to feel the taper when you first start it in the bore, its alot more work in the lower half. if its cast iron bore get it bored with a boring bar then finish with a hone.
Cylinders are bored mainly because they taper with wear. A hone is flexible and won't remove taper in a cylinder. A boring bar is rigid and will re-establish the cylinder as a true cylinder.
If you try to bore with a hone, what's gonna happen is there will be parts of the cylinder that fit the piston tighter than they should. And once everything heats up you may have not-so-good results. Seizing, smoking, loss of power could all be the result.
good luck with the project
If you try to bore with a hone, what's gonna happen is there will be parts of the cylinder that fit the piston tighter than they should. And once everything heats up you may have not-so-good results. Seizing, smoking, loss of power could all be the result.
good luck with the project