Alsport front wheel removal

#1
How the heck does the front wheel come off.:eek:ut: The 2 bolts are only 3/4" long, not like a axel bolt. Looks like some sort of a shaft. Help please.:bowdown:
 

45t

Well-Known Member
#2
I believe it is a threaded shaft. Its been such a long time since I had my TS50 apart, I can't remember if it is bolted anywhere else?
 

wjustice

Well-Known Member
#3
If it's like mine, it's a shaft. The bolts just located it. Most likely it's stuck in the spacers. Some pbblaster or kroil may help. Support the opposite side fork and try not to bugger the threads and use a big hammer.

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#4
If it's like mine, it's a shaft. The bolts just located it. Most likely it's stuck in the spacers. Some pbblaster or kroil may help. Support the opposite side fork and try not to bugger the threads and use a big hammer.

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BFH is next.:laugh: Been soaking with PB blaster for 2 days. Things weren't very rusty.
 
#5
Karen the 2 bolts are a 3/8 bolt on each end about an inch long use a cordless impact gun with a 9/16 socket and same size wrench on the other side, they get rusted in there is an axle that runs through the wheel that they bolt up to. i just did my TS30
 
#7
Karen the 2 bolts are a 3/8 bolt on each end about an inch long use a cordless impact gun with a 9/16 socket and same size wrench on the other side, they get rusted in there is an axle that runs through the wheel that they bolt up to. i just did my TS30
The bolts came out like butter yesterday. Been soaking with PB blaster. Nothing else is moving. So, on some advise from Steve, I heated it up with my little torch and used the BFH and beat on the axel...........Nothing:weld:. Went to see my friend Tim and heated the axel up much better than me. Then "he" beat on it and nothing. Leaves me one option.:hack:
I'll just have to use a regular axel and make some spacers.:thumbsup:
 

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#8
I had to put mine on the press and push the axle out.. The spacers are a pretty tight fit over the axle so just a thin coat of rust will seize them up.
 
#11
I don't understand all this about having problems with rust is about LOL Now that 40 years has past since it was assembled demon rust has it's grip it takes a press to over come the grip.
Steve
 
#12
Took me 4 days of soaking and hammering but I got it.:laugh: Had to cut the axel on both sides. I'm just thankful the spacers came off the axel or I don't know how I would of got that out of the wheel. What was actually froze up was the one axel end in the bottom of the fork. I got that sucker.:thumbsup: Took the forks to get straightened out today. 40 ton press got them nice and straight. Tomorrow I will go see my welding friend Tim and get the fender bracket welded back on the forks..........that was busted off. Installed new neck bushings............they was all cracked and worn out. Funny thing....They had pieces of plastic in there to shim the loose neck. Kinda looked like a plastic "for sale" sign cut up in strips.:laugh: Got the new axel today and had it tapped.:thumbsup: Off to OldMiniBikes tomorrow for some bearings and spacers.:scooter:
Hey Steve, how come the 2 sides of the front wheel is different? Was there a disc brake option?
 

wjustice

Well-Known Member
#14
I think that is just a step down to allow the tire to be installed. Without the extra step on at least one side, you would be able to get the tire to stretch enough to get it on. The bottom pic is the side you would install the tire on.

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Cuda54

Active Member
#16
What was bent on the forks? There are supposed to have a curve at the bottom. The TRI ROD I have is like the TRI SPORT in the forks. And they bent mine straight before I got it and welded a rod over it to keep it straight. When it was supposed to have a curve to begin with.
 
#19
The curve might have been used to set the ( rake and trail ) of the steering. Don't forget the anti seize compound and I have used PVC for spacers and also had axles made out of stainless Steel.
Steve
 
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