Alsport RTS Choke setup

wjustice

Well-Known Member
#1
Could someone here (james_c or steve durham maybe) explain to me or better yet provide some pics of how the choke was setup and actuated on a RTS 340 engine? I have nothing of the original choke to go by.
I did finally get all my carb parts together today and fire it up for a short easy ride around the yard. I ran into some clearance problems with the driven clutch and the new brake rotors that took a bit to resolve but it ran for a quick shakedown and it seems well.
 
#3
Well here I am to the rescue. On my Street legal RTS I had a hole to fill in the body so I tried to make it into a bracket for the choke handle. It worked about ten times and the hard wire kinked so I disconnected it and when the machine was cold I would set the choke and start the trike standing next to it and would let it run for a few seconds and open the choke. I used the hard wire type but my bend was too sharp. My pictures might not help much it does show the choke shaft . And the choke pull was on the side of the trike next to the upholstery
Steve :scooter:

 

wjustice

Well-Known Member
#4
Well your description helps some. I cant see what I wanted to in that pics but thanks for the help. I guess I will need to make a bracket to hold the cable and use a cable from there. The current choke plate will close from vibration while running, so I need to do something.
Steve, on a second note, does the throttle cable run up the seatback and over the engine? Since the bracket enters from the top, I'm guessing that it must. And....what air filter fits? The carb plate I have looks different from yours. Mine bolts to the face of the carb with 3 bolts and is 5.25" dia.
 
#5
Well when I bought the trike back from my old customer it was all apart and I never found the normal round orange plastic air filter box. So I used a plastic velocity stack and a 1/4 bend ABS plumbing elbow and glued them togather and bought a foam type UNI filter.
And the throttle cable did come up the seat support and over the top. The carb had a cable stop to hold the end of the housing it's just out of the picture. I regret selling that machine as it was so much fun to drive and the $2500.00 went way to fast.
Steve :scooter:
 

wjustice

Well-Known Member
#6
Cool, I originally had the cable running under the engine and looping back but I could tell that wasnt right. Current cable is a bit too long but I can cut it later. I had a real issue with the brake clearance and had to raise the jackshaft to remedy it, looks ok now. I have a ziptie holding the choke off but other then that it runs! Wet grass and no front fender meant a face full of water since it had rained. The original snowmobile clutch is still on the engine(Comet 94c Duster) and comes in kinda hard at a bit too high of rpm. I have 2 Salisbury 780's I may switch to later. The freeair engine starts well and didnt get hot at all but it was mid 60's out. I have an idea how to deal with this also. The 2 AX engines I have both need crank bearings so that engine plan is on hold.
 
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