Anyone have anything to say about bicycle motors?
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Honda is is making a little small motor now that would be great on a motorized bike Brand New Engines | Discount Honda Small Engines Gas Replacement Engines
I've seen a couple of them and for being cheap Chinese Whizzer knockoffs, they seamed to work good enough.. :shrug: One guy just hit a boat on a trailer broadside like a week ago just down the road from us, on a motorized bicycle, and he got Airlifted to Kalamazoo with a broken neck.. 
hmy: They must do something...
hmy: They must do something...
I've seen a couple of them and for being cheap Chinese Whizzer knockoffs, they seamed to work good enough.. :shrug: One guy just hit a boat on a trailer broadside like a week ago just down the road from us, on a motorized bicycle, and he got Airlifted to Kalamazoo with a broken neck.. hmy: They must do something...
hmy: They must do something...
check out MotoredBikes.com: Motorized Bicycle Forum - Powered by vBulletin . Hell yea they are worth it. I built one with an old jawa moped engine. Its geared low for steep hills. I pedal on flats and downhill and just use the engine up hills and offroad. Do some research before you go buying a box of pieces :thumbsup:
Here are some really cool kits. I would like to get one and they are really cheap.
Motorized Bicycle Engine Kits & Parts REVOLUTION CYCLES
Motorized Bicycle Engine Kits & Parts REVOLUTION CYCLES
I have two bicycles with motors on them, this is a pic of my 1st one and it has a 80cc 2 stroke. The motor is brand new, This Engine comes in a Kit, and you can buy them on ebay, they even have smaller ones. I never even took this bike outside yet and I had it together way back last Year. I just have to many projects going on.
My Second one, I never took a picture of it when it was outside, so I had to take a pic of it, just where it sits. This one is what they call a Friction Drive. You buy it in a kit, then you buy the motor separate. I don't have the motor on it, because I live in a apartment, so I have a good size box that has double locks on it outside. That's where I keep all my gas cans, and gas tanks in there. This one is really super cool and I ride this thing alot. It has a 35cc Honda 4 stroke motor that attaches to the back of the channel on the side. It goes about 35mph. You have to be real cautious when riding this thing, especially with some of these bad roads that we have. Oh, and It's real easy to start, no problems. Super good motor.
Here is the address for the Kit and the Motor for the Second one. I hope this might help ya. :thumbsup: :smile:
BICYCLE ENGINE KITS FROM BIKEMOTORPARTS.COM
Small Engine Warehouse: GX35 - Honda Engine 1.6hp GX35 OHC Mini 4 Stroke Clutch-Drive (Horizontal or Vertical Mount) 7000 RPM
My Second one, I never took a picture of it when it was outside, so I had to take a pic of it, just where it sits. This one is what they call a Friction Drive. You buy it in a kit, then you buy the motor separate. I don't have the motor on it, because I live in a apartment, so I have a good size box that has double locks on it outside. That's where I keep all my gas cans, and gas tanks in there. This one is really super cool and I ride this thing alot. It has a 35cc Honda 4 stroke motor that attaches to the back of the channel on the side. It goes about 35mph. You have to be real cautious when riding this thing, especially with some of these bad roads that we have. Oh, and It's real easy to start, no problems. Super good motor.
Here is the address for the Kit and the Motor for the Second one. I hope this might help ya. :thumbsup: :smile:
BICYCLE ENGINE KITS FROM BIKEMOTORPARTS.COM
Small Engine Warehouse: GX35 - Honda Engine 1.6hp GX35 OHC Mini 4 Stroke Clutch-Drive (Horizontal or Vertical Mount) 7000 RPM
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The attached show my motorized bicycle. It has the "80cc" RAW motor which I reccommend over the "legal" 49 or 50 cc engine. The limp-wrested laws in all states say it is a motorcycle and not an exempt motorized bike if over 49 or 50 cc. I bought it a couple of years ago at zone 8 cycling on the web rather than eBay because for the few extra bucks it cost I was given a warrenty. Turned out I didn't need it. I mounted a speedo and with my heft on it [250 lbs.] it will run 21 MPH on the flat without the wind helping. Don't be quick to say 'gee, that's slow". 20 MPH is about as fast as sane people wish to go around cars on the street. And remember that bicycles handle very poorly due to almost no rake and trail in the front fork geometry. They will not stop as well as your mini and that becomes quickly evident after your first ride. There is also a problem with lack of suspension. This is especially evident with my narrow 26" tires. 27" and no suspension would be about the same. The picture that Randy posted would be a better choice for tires. I would, and probably will, do it again because I picked up a really nice mountian bike with better tires. Remember that these simple kits will not work on bikes that have rear suspension; another arraingement is needed which I would not get into on a first build. Ether that or the 'friction' drive shown above can be used. Also electrics are available but I don't even want to think about that. For one thing they are expensive. Here are some comments on my first build. First the engine assembly is fine but the mounting 'clips' are far too light. Just stamped sheet metal. In the close-up photo notice that I made big heavy pieces that take the place of the clips. They are made of blocks of aluminum. That is absolutely necessary and can be made with a big drill motor and a hack saw. If the engine moves around even a little bit in the frame it will not allow you to ride more than a few feet without throwing the chain. Another problem that was also easy to fix was the gas tank mounts. Again it was necessary to discard the sheet metal clips and make something more substantial. You should not even start up the engine without a in-line fuel filter. That second picture also shows that I found it necessary to make a special mount for the ignition coil. Tuneing the carb was the most time consumeing. As these are 2-stroke engines it is easy to burn them up by running a lean mixture, especially when brand new. 4-strokes are not so bad. So, it seems to me, that the company that makes these kits errored on the side of safety and jetted them very, very rich. Hopefully yours will be more sanely jetted. To lean out my engine, after a good break-in, I did two things. The first was to cut off the end of that big tree hugger muffler and pretty much gut the damn thing and weld the cap back on. That made the engine "scavage" better and leaned out the top end rather nicely. The bike is sorta loud but to heck with 'em. The other thing I did was solder up the main jet and drill it with a slightly smaller size. I don't recall the specs but it now runs with only a slight amount of richness at full tilt boogie which is right where I want it. If it were a racing machine a lot more speed could be attained by risking a much leaner mixture on the top end but this is a bicycle for fun. I have a feeling that it would probably be best to contact the people that sold the engine for jets rather than fooling around unless you have some time on your hands. I love my old Murrey with it's RAW motor. It gets a lot more comments than anything else I ride and is a really pleasant way to cruse the neighborhoods of town.
I had an engine kit on my old mountain bike and it went pretty good and topped out at 27mph.
Here is a good site (I think the best site) to learn more from motoredbikes go here to learn all you'd ever want to know about these and then some.
A few things though.
First the clutch on those engines just arent right unless they fixed/changed them they will still drag when disengaged and cant be adjusted to not drag to fully engage so if the engine stops running for whatever reason you'd have to pop the chain link to be able to pedal without the slight drag from the engine.They do make a longer clutch lever that is supposed to help but I never tried it.
They do make automatic kits which would be better in some ways.
The other problems I read about are the spokes on the rims of bikes just arent up to the added stress unless they are of the thicker/heavier gauge.
I have read of rims falling apart and causing some serious injuries.
Another thing that was a problem was the fenders coming apart and getting caught in the wheels causing accidents.
And lastly but not the least problem is the brakes on a bike just arent up to the task.Mine had the old style rubber friction pads but I suspect disc brakes that are now more common would work much better.
The no suspension can make for a rough ride at times.Front suspension would have been great as I got a few good shocks to my wrists here and there while riding it.They also make suspension seat posts that would have helped also.
I sold mine since after running it one summer I just never ran it much after that.It was cool and got lots of looks even just being an old mountain bike.
They do make bikes that are heavy duty as far as spokes go and you can have better brakes now and front suspension.
If I ever did another one I'd go for a 4 stroke kit with a centrifugal clutch and put it on a nice cruiser bike with the heavy gauge spokes and suspension seat post.
Here is a good site (I think the best site) to learn more from motoredbikes go here to learn all you'd ever want to know about these and then some.
A few things though.
First the clutch on those engines just arent right unless they fixed/changed them they will still drag when disengaged and cant be adjusted to not drag to fully engage so if the engine stops running for whatever reason you'd have to pop the chain link to be able to pedal without the slight drag from the engine.They do make a longer clutch lever that is supposed to help but I never tried it.
They do make automatic kits which would be better in some ways.
The other problems I read about are the spokes on the rims of bikes just arent up to the added stress unless they are of the thicker/heavier gauge.
I have read of rims falling apart and causing some serious injuries.
Another thing that was a problem was the fenders coming apart and getting caught in the wheels causing accidents.
And lastly but not the least problem is the brakes on a bike just arent up to the task.Mine had the old style rubber friction pads but I suspect disc brakes that are now more common would work much better.
The no suspension can make for a rough ride at times.Front suspension would have been great as I got a few good shocks to my wrists here and there while riding it.They also make suspension seat posts that would have helped also.
I sold mine since after running it one summer I just never ran it much after that.It was cool and got lots of looks even just being an old mountain bike.
They do make bikes that are heavy duty as far as spokes go and you can have better brakes now and front suspension.
If I ever did another one I'd go for a 4 stroke kit with a centrifugal clutch and put it on a nice cruiser bike with the heavy gauge spokes and suspension seat post.
Here's one I started working on last week. That's why it has no chain to the motor, I got it going today. The sprocket on the rear wheel is a pain in the a$$ to get centered.
Took it for a 3 mile run with no problems. Waiting for it to cool down. so I can check it over once again for anything that might be loose. I'd say it's almost as much fun as my mini's are, BUT it's legal to ride it on the roads around here! So that makes it more practical.
I got the 26" Schwinn bike from a thrift store for $85.00, and the 80cc (which is really 66cc) motor kit from a friend for $80.00 . He could never get the rear gear centered and gave up.
Next I want to install a jackshaft so I can change gears going down the road.
Took it for a 3 mile run with no problems. Waiting for it to cool down. so I can check it over once again for anything that might be loose. I'd say it's almost as much fun as my mini's are, BUT it's legal to ride it on the roads around here! So that makes it more practical.
I got the 26" Schwinn bike from a thrift store for $85.00, and the 80cc (which is really 66cc) motor kit from a friend for $80.00 . He could never get the rear gear centered and gave up.
Next I want to install a jackshaft so I can change gears going down the road.
Here's one I started working on last week. That's why it has no chain to the motor, I got it going today. The sprocket on the rear wheel is a pain in the a$$ to get centered.
Took it for a 3 mile run with no problems. Waiting for it to cool down. so I can check it over once again for anything that might be loose. I'd say it's almost as much fun as my mini's are, BUT it's legal to ride it on the roads around here! So that makes it more practical.
I got the 26" Schwinn bike from a thrift store for $85.00, and the 80cc (which is really 66cc) motor kit from a friend for $80.00 . He could never get the rear gear centered and gave up.
Next I want to install a jackshaft so I can change gears going down the road.
Took it for a 3 mile run with no problems. Waiting for it to cool down. so I can check it over once again for anything that might be loose. I'd say it's almost as much fun as my mini's are, BUT it's legal to ride it on the roads around here! So that makes it more practical.
I got the 26" Schwinn bike from a thrift store for $85.00, and the 80cc (which is really 66cc) motor kit from a friend for $80.00 . He could never get the rear gear centered and gave up.
Next I want to install a jackshaft so I can change gears going down the road.
Guess I got lucky because my clutch dosen't drag. You are right-on about the brakes on a bicycle. I don't ride in traffic at all. I live in a little town that has two colleges and therefore a lot of 'bike lanes'. So it is possible to go anywhere in the town without getting into trouble. But, as you point out, they don't handle worth a damned at speeds they were never ment to be going.
I cured the rear sprocket attachment problem by discarding the supplied rubber donuts and useing thicker pads of better material.
I cured the rear sprocket attachment problem by discarding the supplied rubber donuts and useing thicker pads of better material.