Briggs 5hp tillotson

#21
My point was that fuel coming out of the pulse port means the diaphragm is passing fuel. That is why I asked about the Mikuni pump, as I was wondering if he was over-pressurizing the diaphragm with it and causing the fuel by pass, or he has a leak in the diaphragm.

Since he has the engine running, I assume the Mikuni pump is doing the pumping, not the carb. So what pop off pressure should he set for the Briggs on gasoline?

[MENTION=23480]madzx2[/MENTION] this is the throttle cable mount plate and Tilly throttle arm I was referring to. Not a Briggs, but the same application. [MENTION=31879]CarPlayLB[/MENTION] knows where to get these parts, if you don't have the tiller.

(photo is a clone Tilly, but same application)

I have that arm. I can make a plate like that instead of running that L bracket. I should have mentioned earlier my engine is running alky.


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CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#22
My point was that fuel coming out of the pulse port means the diaphragm is passing fuel. That is why I asked about the Mikuni pump, as I was wondering if he was over-pressurizing the diaphragm with it and causing the fuel by pass, or he has a leak in the diaphragm.

Since he has the engine running, I assume the Mikuni pump is doing the pumping, not the carb. So what pop off pressure should he set for the Briggs on gasoline?

[MENTION=23480]madzx2[/MENTION] this is the throttle cable mount plate and Tilly throttle arm I was referring to. Not a Briggs, but the same application. [MENTION=31879]CarPlayLB[/MENTION] knows where to get these parts, if you don't have the tiller.

(photo is a clone Tilly, but same application)

Dear Dave...you know I love you! Right? How would you ever be able to tell if fuel was coming from the pulse port in the carb? I thought the OP was referring to fuel in the external pump pulse line...which is visible to the old naked eye! If the carb diaphragm was passing fuel, it would flood the engine at idle (high vacuum) and it would not run at all! Right? The guys at EC Birt www.eccarburetors.com will know the pop off spec, but I am assuming as it most likely is an EC carb, the pop off pressure was set by them when the carb was sold and does not need to be touched. [MENTION=31239]Havasu Dave[/MENTION]
 
#23
I have that arm. I can make a plate like that instead of running that L bracket. I should have mentioned earlier my engine is running alky.
Yes, the one pictured is one I made, and I have another one I got from EC that is fancy and embossed with their logo. I detest the look of the bracket over the Flathead shrouds, (I have one of those too on another, using a pulse jet carb) which is why I recommended this for the Tilly. Check out EC's setup, as they have them pipe threaded for top or bottom feeds, and include the nut and ferrule. $10 or so, iirc. It is far more accurate (less slop) than the over the top piece, and easier to install, and looks cleaner.

The Pop Off setting for alcohol is about half of what it is for gasoline. (5 PSI) I didn't know you had a new carb from EC. I'm sure they set it up correctly if you bought their alky carb. Otherwise, don't assume it is set up correctly.

I apologize for my confusion on your original post. I was trying to help, not confuse matters. I've done a few flatheads with various carbs, recently finished a two stroke Tilly engine, and am currently working on another, so certain aspects of this were stuck in my brain.

Ole4 on here is about the most knowledgeable person on these forums with regard to this subject, and I wouldn't hesitate to ask him, or send him a PM on getting it set up correctly.
 
#24


I picked this linkage plate up from a friend but I still can't get full throttle . I also added that spring because the throttle wasn't closing when I let off. Fuel pump is removed and carb flipped inlet up so the pulse hole in the manifold lines up.


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#25


This is the linkage I bought from ec carbs that said it was for a tillotson on a flathead. I've searched and can't find any info on setting up any of ec's linkages. I know it can't be that hard.....


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#29
Increase your throw by loosening your cable clamp on the throttle arm, then loosening the clamp on your throttle arm where it sits on the throttle shaft. Now rotate the arm CCW about 20 degrees- just before "all the way down" and tighten it all back up. That should give you the "throw" you need to attain full throttle. If that doesn't work, you will need to move the cable clamping point on your throttle arm a bit towards the pivot point. Might have to drill, or get a different arm. Try and not use that L piece, as it adds a lot of tension. You might not have a choice..

As far as the other assembly you have, it appears there are some pieces missing. I have no idea, but [MENTION=31879]CarPlayLB[/MENTION] knows all about how to hook those up. It seems like right off the bat, you'd need a much longer throttle arm.
 
#30
Increase your throw by loosening your cable clamp on the throttle arm, then loosening the clamp on your throttle arm where it sits on the throttle shaft. Now rotate the arm CCW about 20 degrees- just before "all the way down" and tighten it all back up. That should give you the "throw" you need to attain full throttle. If that doesn't work, you will need to move the cable clamping point on your throttle arm a bit towards the pivot point. Might have to drill, or get a different arm. Try and not use that L piece, as it adds a lot of tension. You might not have a choice..

As far as the other assembly you have, it appears there are some pieces missing. I have no idea, but [MENTION=31879]CarPlayLB[/MENTION] knows all about how to hook those up. It seems like right off the bat, you'd need a much longer throttle arm.
The arm, the carb bracket, and the 90 degree tube was all together in one kit. I'll try adjusting the arm and go from there. Thanks


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#31
The arm, the carb bracket, and the 90 degree tube was all together in one kit. I'll try adjusting the arm and go from there. Thanks
Easy as pie. You can also order individual components from EC, but you have to contact them. Their website is not user friendly for ferreting out those individual pieces.
 
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