Cam issues hard to turn over

#1
Ok we'll I put my new cam in it's a 308 dyno I already clearanced the block for the lobes, here is my problem when I put the cam in and threw the side cover on and tried to turn it over by hand it was like stiff to turn it over, but when I turn it over with out the cam in it's easy can soneone help me with this
 
#2
Ok I figured it out but I don't know how to fix it, the problem is the cam support on the side cover is rubbing the cam, could this be from installing the stud kit
 
#6
I would think you would induce a lot of crank walk with two gaskets a compressed gasket is like .012" for the thin gasket I do believe I would rather remove
.012" from a support than add that much more end play to my rotating assembly

Get a sharpie marker paint where you think it's rubbing reassemble with one gasket and torque everything hand crank it take it back apart Is the black gone from where you painted
Yes:
File down the cover a bit till you clear
No:
Check other poss causes
Camshaft to crankshaft counter balance weights
Or the fact it going to be tuff with no compression release If you got the billet if it's welded the cam should be the same no diffrent from the one you took out other than the grind profile

That's a big cam hope you did your math



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#7
you want a good .010-.015 crank end play for a good motor... With one .022 gasket we usually get .006 end play with another .012 gasket we end up with .016 end play which works out great on a modified engine ran at proper temps...
Ahh a 308'cam is a good choice...can be ran with 1-1 rockers or 1.3-1 rockers to make it scream... Make sure the cam is fully seated in the cam boss on the side cover.
Sometimes you have to wiggle the flywheel back and forth a little bit to make it seat...
 
#8
Fixed it, just needed another gasket, but now I ran into another problem, when the springs are releasing the pop I'm thinking it's coil bind I have no clue
 
#11
Did you check cam to crank clearance? The lobes can also hit the crank counter weights.
Did you set your valve lash?
.003"
What size springs do you have?
What ratio rockers do you have ?
Have you checked piston to valve clearance?

Engine building is not plug an play

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Last edited:
#12
Did you check cam to crank clearance? The lobes can also hit the crank counter weights.
Did you set your valve lash?
.003"
What size springs do you have?
What ratio rockers do you have ?
Have you checked piston to valve clearance?

Engine building is not plug an play

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it clears the crank
lash is correct
rockers are stock 1.1
springs are 26
havent checked the piston to valve clearnce but i have put a thick gasket on it and it still makes the noise
 
#13
Is it a billet cam or welded?
Just don't see the cam being different if you got the welded one did you mark the cover yet and look for rub?


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#15
If you double up the gaskets you did not fix a thing you created another problem
Crankshaft end play should be around .005"-.007"
With two gaskets your asking for increased rod bearing wear.



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#16
If you double up the gaskets you did not fix a thing you created another problem
Crankshaft end play should be around .005"-.007"
With two gaskets your asking for increased rod bearing wear.



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The crank play that I have is perfect, but my new question is, why is there a pop noise coming from my exhaust valve spring when the valve cover is off
 

rmm727

Active Member
#19
Have you taken the valve cover off and turned the engine over to verify their isnt coil bind. I dont think you would but some of those bigger cams need the spring pockets cut deeper.
 
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