Clutch differences

[wjustice]

I've been trying to get my RTS tuned after adding the mikuni carb. It's really soft taking off on comparison my TS290 is pulling the front wheel off the ground at times. Well after a homemade wiring harness meltdown I decided to pull the clutch too. The cover/ramps are different. My TS and many others I've found pics of are like the cover on the right. I think the left one is from a SL and calms down the engagement for street use. Has anyone else ever noticed this?

 

[steven Durham]

Well for the difference between a TS 290 and any of the RTS machines is the the older rigid frame just delivers more torque to the wheels. The suspension was added for rider comfort and safety. On a TS290 you had to really watch your throttle during a hill climb hit a big rock and the front end would bounce up and if you gave it gas it had the torque to do a back flip. That could never happen in a RTS the stretched out frame distributed the weight more to the front end and the rear used flex to control.
One of the clutches main job is to apply power to the drive train when the engine is in the beginning of its power band. Launching a big sled requires a higher rpm engagement that a vehicle like a trike on wheels. So a smoother power curve and lower engine engagement is good. One of my Tri-Sports had a 340 Kohler out of a John Deere sled and I think it was a ported motor as it was real hot and had twin carbs. That clutch kicked in at about 3500 RPM and would just about snap you neck especially with a big helmet on your head. But the power and pull of that trike made it a great ride. I wish I had never sold that trike.
Steve

 

[wjustice]

Well I'm still learning about these engines and the clutches. Both of these clutches are off of RTS340 trikes. The right one has a flatter center that allows more launch rpms. The orange one is rounded in the center. That gives a lower start and more linear upshift. My guess would be for a tamer start for a SL.
If you've seen my vids, the RTS doesn't have the big rpms, it just accelerates smoothly. The TS gives higher rpms, then the upshift and the rpms stay up.

 

[wjustice]

Now if I can get the time to get the wiring redone, I'll run it and see just how big a difference that cover makes.

 

[wjustice]

Wow finally got the wiring redone and started it. Lets just say that the clutch cover made a big difference. Instead of the easy steady takeoff, now it has some snap. The rpm's come up and stay up as the clutch come in. It's just like my TS290. The front wheel is just dancing over the ground like it should. Yahoo!

Now if it will stop blowing fuses on startup i'll be in business. Actually it's blowing 10amp fuses but only if it cranks for more then 5-10 seconds. If it fires right away, its fine. I'm using a solenoid from a John Deere snowmobile and apparently some of those use 25amp circuit breakers. I'll step up to 15 or maybe 20 if I have to. Its wired with 12 on the positive and ground and 14 for the solenoid.

 

[steven Durham]

I don't remember having a fuse in my Tri-Sport but you need an Amp Probe to tell how many amps the starter is drawing and then you need to make sure the wires are big enough for the large amp load.
Steve

 

[wjustice]

The SL wiring diagram online has a 10amp fuse on it. I oriiginally wired with that in mind. The starter draw is through the main cables that are standard 12v garden tractor style and should he plenty big enough. However the solenoid I am using using is from a John Deere snowmobile. Their wiring calls for a 25amp circuit breaker. It must have a higher current draw then the alsport one.