Clutch removal on a Tecumseh OHH60 6 HP

creia

creia

#1
#1
After a 40 year hiatus from mini-bikes I am enjoying them once again as my son has caught the "fever" and picked up his first bike last weekend. (Yes, I am an "older" dad) I went to pull the clutch for inspection and noticed that there is a bolt and washer on the end of the drives shaft holding it on. The (typical) allen wrench set screw is missing (threads appear to be bunged).
My questions: 1) Will this bolt be a "left-hand" thread (i.e., loosen it by turning clockwise), and 2) When I go to wrench it of how do I keep the engine crankshaft from turning?
Thank you in advance for any help you can provide- this is a tremendous forum and information source.:wink:
 
The Restore Kid

The Restore Kid

New Member
#2
#2
creia said:
After a 40 year hiatus from mini-bikes I am enjoying them once again as my son has caught the "fever" and picked up his first bike last weekend. (Yes, I am an "older" dad) I went to pull the clutch for inspection and noticed that there is a bolt and washer on the end of the drives shaft holding it on. The (typical) allen wrench set screw is missing (threads appear to be bunged).
My questions: 1) Will this bolt be a "left-hand" thread (i.e., loosen it by turning clockwise), and 2) When I go to wrench it of how do I keep the engine crankshaft from turning?
Thank you in advance for any help you can provide- this is a tremendous forum and information source.:wink:
Click to expand...
No, the bolt is right hand thread.. :thumbsup: If ya look at the crank, left hand would want to un-thread it self as the engine spun.. The easiest way to hold the crank shaft is find a wrench of screwdriver or something you can wedge against the flywheel some how.. Use the thickest fin on the flywheel and be careful, or wedge the starer cup, take the recoil off from the engine and use a pipe wrench on the starter cup if need be....

Typically if you're careful not to break a cooling fin off, a screwdriver in the flywheel will work.. The bolt should not be very tight.. The missing set screw does not matter.. The key is what keeps it all in motion, and the bolt in the end keeps it on...

I like to go around the crank shaft with a file and clean it all up, no buggers, dents, bends, rust, grime.. that will hang the clutch up... Same thing on the entire crank, clutch I.D, both key ways, the key itself,... make sure it all slides together nicely by hand with NO binding before assembly.. if you have to hammer or tap it just the slightest, might make it nearly impossible to get off again.. :shrug:
 
mmisterbungl

mmisterbungl

New Member
#3
#3
I tighten and loosen ALL my crank bolts like this.

Get the engine to where it's staring the compression rotation (engine will give resistance when you get it to this point), Put a wrench on the bolt and have it at about a 45deg angle. Then with a swift motion, knock the $hit out of it with with the bottom of your hand as if you were swinging down like a hammer (kind of like "rock" in "Rock Paper Scissors"). Works every time for me. Not sure if it will work for the motor you're looking at. Might want to get some PB blaster and let it soak in if there is rust involved.
 
oldfatguy

oldfatguy

Active Member
#4
#4
a better method then using a screw driver in the flywheel fins is to put a piece of wash line rope in the spark plug hole with the piston down. This will safely lock up the engine so that you can work on it. Just remember to leave enough hanging out so that you can pull the rope back out.
 
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