clutch stuck on shaft

#1
Ok guys, I need some guidance here. Now this is my first ever mini bike so be gentle lol. Replaced the original engine with a 79cc Predator, also bought a new centrifugal clutch to fit as it was a 5/8 instead of 3/4. Now the original clutch slid right off no problem, but I think the new one is seized or frozen on. I THINK I put a light coat of either 30w or WD40 on the output shaft before I installed the new clutch, but honestly can't remember. I do remember having to LIGHTLY tap the key into its slot before I bolted it up. Did I do something wrong here, or is this a normal occurrence? Was there a step I missed when I installed the new clutch? Any help here would be greatly appreciated!
 

bikebudy

Banned - Must pay $500
#2
If you had to tap the key in that is likely holding it , along with other areas.
Also did you use the set screws ? Are they backed out.

Otherwise, you may be looking at using a puller?
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#3
The clutches will sometimes bind up as they're sliding on or off the output shaft. Try tapping it lightly with a ball ping around the collar. If that doesn't work, you can always use a pulley puller. Harbor freight sells a set that works pretty well for fairly cheap
 
#5
Yep, set screws,are backed out. Well, one is. The other one is MIA, but not worried about it. Yeah I figured a puller was in ordrr, just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something. Thanks guys!!
 
#6
Be careful 3 jaw pullers often damage the clutch. I have had the best luck , Using a automotive tie rod separator ( pickle fork ). And a little heat always helps. Good luck
 
#8
Be careful 3 jaw pullers often damage the clutch. I have had the best luck , Using a automotive tie rod separator ( pickle fork ). And a little heat always helps. Good luck
That's what I have done in the past, I personally wouldn't use heat :thumbsup: Sounds like its the key binding every thing up, when you get it apart file the shaft slot and the key so the key slides smoothly on the shaft and use some anti seize (a little goes a long way) on the shaft when you reassemble it :thumbsup:
 
#9
Before you put the clutch back on, grease the crankshaft with something tacky and it will never seize again. Just make sure you're using a clutch bolt on the shaft end or the clutch might fly off while the engine is running. I've done this in the past and it works really good.
 
#10
Try tapping the hub of the clutch further onto the shaft. Tapping it on will loosen the clutch from the shaft, then you should be able to pull the clutch off with a puller.
 
#11
And another trick. Remove the engine. Using Kung Fu grip, (GI Joe had that) hold engine by the clutch with both hands, suspending engine over foam/waiting arms/something soft just in case. Get able assistant to tap on crankshaft with lead, wood, etc "driver" with a hammer. The key is to tap only the shaft, not mushroom it. The 5/16 clutch retaining bole with about 1/4" sticking out works great.
 
#12
Just an update, if you turn on your shop light, you can see that you DID NOT lose a set screw. If you back out the "lost" set screw the clutch will come off. Go ahead and chuckle, you've been there too. Thanks for the help guys, it means a lot to a mini newbie.
 
#13
Yes, we have all been there. Cant tell you how many times I've tried to start an engine, thinking something was wrong, only to later realize I'd forgotten to open the petcock.
 
#14
Just an update, if you turn on your shop light, you can see that you DID NOT lose a set screw. If you back out the "lost" set screw the clutch will come off. Go ahead and chuckle, you've been there too. Thanks for the help guys, it means a lot to a mini newbie.
 
#15
Just an update, if you turn on your shop light, you can see that you DID NOT lose a set screw. If you back out the "lost" set screw the clutch will come off. Go ahead and chuckle, you've been there too. Thanks for the help guys, it means a lot to a mini newbie.
LOL...yep. The ol dim shop light effects. Definitely been there.
 
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