So someone put an idea in my head and I've been kicking it around for a minute I have an extra starter motor sitting around and an extra group 24 battery anybody have any idea the torque of a sbc starter and how small a sprocket Ishould go, it should launch like a rocket and i have an old tote gote sitting around crying out for some love so space is not an issue if anyone see any problems point them out constructive criticism welcome thanks
going electric maybe
- Thread starter minibike_mayhem
- Start date
- Tags electric
It won't take you too far, but it can be a fun experiment. The Tote Gote with a gas engine will run much better, but you asked about the starter motor deal so here goes.
The Chevy starter has so much torque it will pull the largest gear you can fit in the housing. At least for a minute until it overheats. When the battery is fully charged, and if your control setup is just a relay or a switch, you get a snappy launch since a series motor makes max torque at 0 RPM. A proper controller makes for a softer start, but the cost would be crazy expensive, so my comment is based on a plain relay or switch control.
As battery charge tapers, you get a softer start alsong with reduced performance. Running a larger gear on the motor will make it launch a bit softer, of course top end will be increased. Running a setup with two contactors and a hefty resistance (old golf cart) can make it launch softer, too.
The biggest problem is heat. Starter motors run real hot when used longer than a minute, and take a long time to cool. A gear drive starter with its ball bearing supported jackshaft will run cooler. The Chevy starter only has bushings and direct drive, so it will run hot sooner. You can drill some venting holes in a starter, and add a fan or two. Look at a Honda Accord starter. The world of barstool racing is a big help, too.
The Chevy starter has so much torque it will pull the largest gear you can fit in the housing. At least for a minute until it overheats. When the battery is fully charged, and if your control setup is just a relay or a switch, you get a snappy launch since a series motor makes max torque at 0 RPM. A proper controller makes for a softer start, but the cost would be crazy expensive, so my comment is based on a plain relay or switch control.
As battery charge tapers, you get a softer start alsong with reduced performance. Running a larger gear on the motor will make it launch a bit softer, of course top end will be increased. Running a setup with two contactors and a hefty resistance (old golf cart) can make it launch softer, too.
The biggest problem is heat. Starter motors run real hot when used longer than a minute, and take a long time to cool. A gear drive starter with its ball bearing supported jackshaft will run cooler. The Chevy starter only has bushings and direct drive, so it will run hot sooner. You can drill some venting holes in a starter, and add a fan or two. Look at a Honda Accord starter. The world of barstool racing is a big help, too.
Those starters need to cool down between uses. There are varying specifications for them, but they're not designed for continued running- too many amps causing too much heat, not to mention quickly wearing down the battery. Also need a speed control device. Maybe a stepped resistor affair- but it will be big due to the heat involved. Several folks have made things like this using starter motors though.
A truly viable electric system will have far more storage than a single group 24 battery, and utilize a wheel chair or power chair motor and associated speed controller.
Here is one of several videos on line which you might enjoy. Good idea, or bad idea, it's always worth it to tinker.
[video=youtube;jrqnMQ9rPGo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrqnMQ9rPGo#t=28[/video]
A truly viable electric system will have far more storage than a single group 24 battery, and utilize a wheel chair or power chair motor and associated speed controller.
Here is one of several videos on line which you might enjoy. Good idea, or bad idea, it's always worth it to tinker.
[video=youtube;jrqnMQ9rPGo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrqnMQ9rPGo#t=28[/video]
Due to the fact that Chevy's start when you hit the key, the starter was not designed to run for long periods. Maybe look at Mopar gear reduction starters...you're welcome Dave!
To do it right it takes a lot of dough. Batteries are expensive...and heavy. And like Pardue says, you really need a controller. Unlike a gas engine that builds torque/HP with increasing RPM's, and electric motor has peak torque when started. Maybe start scrounging for old golf cart parts!
To do it right it takes a lot of dough. Batteries are expensive...and heavy. And like Pardue says, you really need a controller. Unlike a gas engine that builds torque/HP with increasing RPM's, and electric motor has peak torque when started. Maybe start scrounging for old golf cart parts!
MOPAR sucks! Give me a dreamy Chevy any day. :laugh: There are some dry ice cooled examples on the net as well.
Starters used on 24VDC diesel applications are generally bearing equipped as well. You can run them on 12, since "Virgins Are Rare." Translated: E/R=I
During one of my logistics stints with the US Gov, we purchased several School Bus robots for safety training of students. They were powered by wheel chair motors. Very torquey, and ran quite awhile on a charge. Would benefit from a TAV type of drive system, as the controllers were very accurate.
Starters used on 24VDC diesel applications are generally bearing equipped as well. You can run them on 12, since "Virgins Are Rare." Translated: E/R=I
During one of my logistics stints with the US Gov, we purchased several School Bus robots for safety training of students. They were powered by wheel chair motors. Very torquey, and ran quite awhile on a charge. Would benefit from a TAV type of drive system, as the controllers were very accurate.
Might be a good way to adapt it all, but then you might as well use the motor, the controller and the battery pack. If it's wheelies he needs, go with gasoline, or go way high tech electrics.
Here's the White Zombie running at PIR- my old stomping grounds in the 70's. PIR is home of the electric drag racers.
[video=youtube;nXWiR2m4igk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXWiR2m4igk[/video]
A bit more on the car, showing battery pack and some construction, and some crazy guys sipping adult beverages.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nAgNm3CS7E
Here's the White Zombie running at PIR- my old stomping grounds in the 70's. PIR is home of the electric drag racers.
[video=youtube;nXWiR2m4igk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXWiR2m4igk[/video]
A bit more on the car, showing battery pack and some construction, and some crazy guys sipping adult beverages.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nAgNm3CS7E
My Father built me a go cart out of conduit when I was 8 years old. Power for the cart was a 6 volt battery with an old Ford starter motor. It was driven by a belt with pulleys. It would run for about 15 minutes before needing a charge and to top it off, on a fresh charge it was much quicker and faster than my cousin's Fox go cart with a 3 1/2 hp Clinton.
My 6 year old Nephew is now driving the same cart with the same starter but a new battery.
My 6 year old Nephew is now driving the same cart with the same starter but a new battery.
Holy cow thanks for the responses and Iguess i could have been more specific. I want to build it for drag racing a local numb nuts so I'm not to worried about heat as it would only be getting a minute or two worth of run time each pass and my gas bike is intimidating sounding so that's no fun he would expect that to beat his front wheel drive 67-72 c10 frankenstien pickup yes I did say front wheel drive and I never thought about a tav I could dump that down to a ten tooth sprocket ,is there one better than they other for the torque I know my tav2 feels the grunt of my 212 when it launches hard on a 36 tooth sprocket again thnx for the quick responses