H50 Carburetor Options
- Thread starter control4userguy
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^Right. So a brand new carb has been ordered as a test article. I have access to "E0" fuel designed for race go karts, not a whole lot but just enough to run for a few outings. As it stands, bowl gasket and main jet o-ring swelled-up in as little as two days exposure to E10. This is not acceptable at all and I wonder about the alcohol content being as labeled. I almost can say that the fuel tank problem I had recently may have been caused by E10 attacking the existing liner probably not formulated for alcohols.
i have had really good luck with a 91octane ethanol-free gas we sell in are part of the county for my overhead valve engines that are running 10.5 up to 11.5 compression. once the engine is set,jetting ....etc.. i don't have to go back and reset anything. if i use a cheap 87 octane with ethanol or a very high octane(110) then everything starts to change(carb).
if i leave a cheap 87octane in my snowblower(10hptec) over the summer the brass bowl turns to green and i have to clean the carb out real good so it will run correct again......:repuke:
now i did notes when purchasing a new replacement hs-50 carb this summer for a minibike the bowl was plastic,but i believe the needle was steel with a rubber tip and the seat was brass.
if i leave a cheap 87octane in my snowblower(10hptec) over the summer the brass bowl turns to green and i have to clean the carb out real good so it will run correct again......:repuke:
now i did notes when purchasing a new replacement hs-50 carb this summer for a minibike the bowl was plastic,but i believe the needle was steel with a rubber tip and the seat was brass.
^^While probably true, it is not that easy for some on a budget. Sitting for a month? What I'm possibly faced with takes just hours. I consulted with a commercial distribution fuels expert and he tells me that 10% content is a rough target for blenders. That means it could go higher in the final product. Agency mandates an oxygen content target so the ethanol oxygenate component is somewhat adjustable in order to achieve O2 target.
I would guess that the off-shore reproduction carburetors contain seals with rubber not capable of holding form in the presence of alcohols. Orings for the main & idle jets become deformed and cause engine operation variability one day to the next. Certainly are many threads indicating this. I ran 5 or so different Tecumseh engines on lawn mowers and go karts back in the late 60s and early 70s and never had to fiddle with jet adjustments every time out like I do now.
I would guess that the off-shore reproduction carburetors contain seals with rubber not capable of holding form in the presence of alcohols. Orings for the main & idle jets become deformed and cause engine operation variability one day to the next. Certainly are many threads indicating this. I ran 5 or so different Tecumseh engines on lawn mowers and go karts back in the late 60s and early 70s and never had to fiddle with jet adjustments every time out like I do now.
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I install shut off valves in all my small engine stuff. When I get ready to put it up I shut off the valve and let the engine run till it shuts down. So far for short term (month or 2) I've not had any problems getting something back up and running. Now if Its gonna get stored over winter I'll drain the tank before storage.
^^I have had to do the same with my yard equip and all my bikes have cut-offs. Not knowing what part of the country you're in, I'm kind of surprised that you're having that sort of problem with fuel. If the H50 is stock otherwise, you shouldn't be having issues like Brian would have with motors running at 11:1.
This is what is driving me to experiment a little. E10 is not really E10 in my area according to my fuel guy who distributes here. My fuel tank springs a leak then my new carburetor stops idling properly along with hard hot restart problem that shows-up the next day. Take the carb down to the o-rings and discover them 10% larger than new parts in my stock.
Very suspicious...
Very suspicious...
^Well, that's true. Mine is turning into a garage queen. However, listening in here to others with similar Tecumseh symptoms leads me to believe the "starts in four pulls" comments is de rigueur. Let me ask you this, are all of your bikes running Tecs with no primers? Do you crack the throttle when you start-up cold? Does your idle rpm fall when you tilt the bike to the right?
I can honstly say, I run cheapest gas I can find.
I don't do crap to it.
I ride all my bikes almost weekly.
Every one of them runs most of the time with no difficulty. :laugh:
Not perfect but, all start on easy, in four pulls or less.
Maybe y'all just don't ride enough.:laugh:
I don't do crap to it.
I ride all my bikes almost weekly.
Every one of them runs most of the time with no difficulty. :laugh:
Not perfect but, all start on easy, in four pulls or less.
Maybe y'all just don't ride enough.:laugh:
I don't know about that. Taking ethanol out of the equation, we had snowblowers sitting until the next snowfall, sometimes weeks in between. Those Tecs started and ran fine. I had neighbors with reel-type Tecumseh mowers that didn't care to drain fuel over winter. I had to start those same machines come spring as a lawn-cut boy. Believe me, they started and ran or I didn't make my $3.50/job :laugh: That was 1971...