HELP! I nned to ID this B&S engine..need part

Rapidrob

Rapidrob

#1
#1
30 plus years ago I bought a used rental big wheel mower made by Maxim. The ID sticker's ink is long gone. There is a serial number?? stamped into the foil sticker.
90-524BICS2-03. No other numbers are on this mower that I can find.
The engine is a B&S and the pull starter/cooling housing is not original to the engine. There are no numbers stamped on it anyway.
I 'think' the engine is a 5 HP,not sure. I've checked every inch of the engine and cannot find any markings. Many layers of paint on the block.
I was cutting the weeds with this mower and it was running just fine. I keep my stuff up on oil changes and spark gap,coil clean,etc. I shut it down to use the weed whacker and when I went to start it,no go. There seems to be a spark but it looks weak to me. Sometimes white,sometimes yellow. Changed plug,no go. Removed stop wire,no go. Starter fluid,no go. Starter fluid right into the spark plug hole,no go. Not even a back fire. Compression seems normal,good suction on the intake manifold.
So I'm assuming ( yea I know) the ignition coil is just no good. I replaced the pull starter after it broke trying to start the engine.
Please if you can help me ID this engine so I can buy a new or used ignition coil I'd be very appreciative. Fixed income and all that.




 
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Rapidrob

Rapidrob

#3
#3
Flywheel looks to be just under 7" in diameter. The coil has no markings other than 'this side up".
I found a number for the Maxim Manufacturing and they do not have records on this mower. They seem to think from the serial number that it is a 1990's engine.
I can get photo's if needed.
 
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CarPlayLB

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#4
#4
It is a 4 or 5HP then...same external dimensions. I may have a used magnetron coil for you. Will need to check tonight when I get home
 
Rapidrob

Rapidrob

#9
#9
I measured my coil and am getting 2.8 K ohms. I do not know if that is normal or not?
They sell an "electronic" coil as well as the standard magneto. Is there an advantage to the electronic over the older style.
 
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kheper

kheper

New Member
#10
#10
3-5K ohm is the range of a functional coil. Your coil is not far off. I'd attach it to the engine then set the gap to .010" - between the conductors of the coil and the flywheel. If the engine fails to start, shoot for .005". If there is rust on the conductors, sand it of.
 
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Rapidrob

Rapidrob

#11
#11
OK, I tried to get the engine to run. Fuel,check, spark,not so wonderful. Just for giggles I put on an automotive spark plug. WOW what a spark.
Huumm,that was a brand new NGK plug. Darn thing is no good. OK,I put in the automotive spark plug ( will not touch the piston) and tried to start the engine. No go. Not even a back fire when I flood the intake manifold with gas. That got me thinking. The engine was running very well when I shut it down. Then no start after that.
I pulled the flywheel noticing the key in the way. When I turned the flywheel over I found that the key had disintegrated on the drive shaft!
A five cent part stopped the engine cold with no warning. Nothing had been hit while mowing.
I made a new key and installed it. On the third pull the engine fired up. It runs like a Swiss-watch. Smooth as silk,no smoke.
Thank you to those who had ideas. It got me thinking and eventually I found the problem.
CarPlatRB thank you for the offer of looking for a replacement ignition coil.
 
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