Hiawatha / Western Flyer Doodle Bug w/ Side Car
Most of the tire and tube crumbled in my hands while removing it. I'm not sure what the band is lined with. It's looks like some sort of fiber.
I'll definitely keep y'all posted here. This project log is a great idea for a message board!
I'm going to do my best to git' her runnin' under her own steam before the snow starts flying around here.
~ Dave
I'll definitely keep y'all posted here. This project log is a great idea for a message board!
I'm going to do my best to git' her runnin' under her own steam before the snow starts flying around here.
~ Dave
Today I stripped the frame of all extra components, ground off all the the extra welds, smoothed out the less than great factory welds, and then spent about an hour with a wire brush wheel on a grinder removing most of the rusty scale. The rest in the tight spots will have to be done by hand.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
Sitting on the saw horse on the left, there is a grinder. I installed a wire brush wheel on it and took the rust off with that. The side car frame is next; maybe Wednesday night.
I used electrolysis and then steel wool on the smaller parts.
Also done on Saturday; I'm putting the original sprocket away for safe keeping. I'm going to try to drive it direct from the clutch and eliminate the idler wheel. I picked up a new number 40 sprocket, the same diameter at Tractor Supply Co. The new sprocket is the same diameter with a 2 inch diameter alignment hole in the middle. I alignment punched the three hole bolt pattern from the original sprocket, then drilled it out. Perfect fit! Photos coming as soon as the new rear tire and tube arrives; probably by Wednesday. I'm hoping that the tiny tire keeps me from being way over-driven.
Something that I forgot to mention; prior to de-rusting the frame, I masking taped over the drive screws on the head and Doodle Bug badges and then removed them by feeding a piece of round stock into the head tube until I hit the drive screws; then carefully positioned the round stock on the back of the drive screws and pried them out. The tape keeps the drive screws from falling into places that ya don't want!
Right now the foot plate is in the electrolysis tank being de-rusted. I don't know if I can save it; it's pretty bad.
Tonight I removed the welded on post from the rear fender and banged that back into shape. It'll need some minor welds and some handy work with a rotary tool to make it look right.
I'm also scouting around for the largest engine that I can squeeze into the frame so that I have enough torque for me and a passenger on the side car.
~ Dave
I used electrolysis and then steel wool on the smaller parts.
Also done on Saturday; I'm putting the original sprocket away for safe keeping. I'm going to try to drive it direct from the clutch and eliminate the idler wheel. I picked up a new number 40 sprocket, the same diameter at Tractor Supply Co. The new sprocket is the same diameter with a 2 inch diameter alignment hole in the middle. I alignment punched the three hole bolt pattern from the original sprocket, then drilled it out. Perfect fit! Photos coming as soon as the new rear tire and tube arrives; probably by Wednesday. I'm hoping that the tiny tire keeps me from being way over-driven.
Something that I forgot to mention; prior to de-rusting the frame, I masking taped over the drive screws on the head and Doodle Bug badges and then removed them by feeding a piece of round stock into the head tube until I hit the drive screws; then carefully positioned the round stock on the back of the drive screws and pried them out. The tape keeps the drive screws from falling into places that ya don't want!
Right now the foot plate is in the electrolysis tank being de-rusted. I don't know if I can save it; it's pretty bad.
Tonight I removed the welded on post from the rear fender and banged that back into shape. It'll need some minor welds and some handy work with a rotary tool to make it look right.
I'm also scouting around for the largest engine that I can squeeze into the frame so that I have enough torque for me and a passenger on the side car.
~ Dave
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Sandblasting, $40.00 ... Wire brush wheel, $4.00 ... the satisfaction of doing it myself? Priceless!
It has a side car, so it's not going to turn well anyway.
Why did I touch up the factory welds? Because Stock Sucks! ... and I'm building this for me. :smile:
I'm still searching for a BIG engine to install.
~ Dave
It has a side car, so it's not going to turn well anyway.
Why did I touch up the factory welds? Because Stock Sucks! ... and I'm building this for me. :smile:
I'm still searching for a BIG engine to install.
~ Dave
You can still have fun sanding primer and it will stick. ("rust never sleeps"):thumbsup: Sand blasting is cheap to do yourself and gets in all the tight spots and does a way better job but it ain't worth the mess when you can have two bikes done for $45 with a larger blaster that does an even better job .
The wire wheel is great for getting the scale and prepping for blasting.
As for Jessie James, he's still "boy" doesn't have respect for anything, just look at his shows,,,, oh that's right,, he wrecked that and his family. :001_tt2:
The wire wheel is great for getting the scale and prepping for blasting.
As for Jessie James, he's still "boy" doesn't have respect for anything, just look at his shows,,,, oh that's right,, he wrecked that and his family. :001_tt2:
I agree that taking a mint vintage car, bike ect and cutting it up is just rediculous, Jessie James really screwed up some nice vintage metal but in the case with this bike with the sidecar finding all the correct parts to put it back to stock original is probably gonne be impossible not to mention the cost will out weigh the value when it's done so making some changes here and there without destroying the bike isn't a big issue IMO... Just bringing it back from the dead is gonna be an self gratifying accomplishment in itself no matter if its period correct or not.. I say just do it the way you want but try and keep it as close to original without hacking it beyond recognition..
I think it would slick with 5 spoke astros on all three corners, tuck and roll (pleated) seats, chrome engine tin and exhaust... kind of a 60's kustom look...
I think it would slick with 5 spoke astros on all three corners, tuck and roll (pleated) seats, chrome engine tin and exhaust... kind of a 60's kustom look...
Astros and roll and tuck!
I agree with 125cc. Use the reconditioned rear drive wheel with the slick. There ain't gonna be any leaning into turns with that sidecar. As for the other two wheels, go with the astros and roll and tuck the seats. Perhaps if the foot pan is shot, you can double it up with some diamond plate for a vintage cushman sort of look!.
I agree with 125cc. Use the reconditioned rear drive wheel with the slick. There ain't gonna be any leaning into turns with that sidecar. As for the other two wheels, go with the astros and roll and tuck the seats. Perhaps if the foot pan is shot, you can double it up with some diamond plate for a vintage cushman sort of look!.
