Installing 6.5 motor: Have questions I could not find in Searching

tmakt

New Member
#1
1. What is the length of chain required? Is ONE package of #35 RLV Extreme Chain Gold on Black - 106 Links enough? Since the original chain baja sells is 70 links? I read here and there ppl say get 2 or 3 boxes???

2. Im looking at getting a Max Torque clutch for #35 chain. Do I want the 11T, 12T, or 13T version? Im planning on keeping the 70T rear sprocket as is. I weigh 200 lbs. I will be riding on mostly flat land so I guess Ill prefer more top speed than acceleration. BUT I will take it "offroading" maybe like 3 times a year on some semi hilly terrain as well. What sprocket setup will be ideal for me?

Thanks
 

71dodge

New Member
#3
buy a big chain and you can cut it down to size now as far a teeth i think its more teeth more top end less teeth more accerleration so i would go with 12T it would be ideal for on and off road condidtions
 
#4
the 11 t is fine one box of chain is plenty
not really and wrong.

he's got a 70t rear sprocket and running an 11t is going to gear it too low. the 12t or 13t is a much better choice. going smaller on the front does the same thing as installing a larger rear sprocket.

i used a little over 1 box of that same chain he's talking about on my Cat. the chain for it worked perfectly on my DB and would have been too short if i didn't get a second box.
 
#5
I just installed a 6.5 using cjtmini's kit..I removed 3 links from the stock dirtbug chain length..My sprockets are 12/70 I believe.
 

tmakt

New Member
#6
FYI, for future reference.

ONE BOX OF#35 RLV Extreme Chain -106 links - IS NOT ENOUGH.

BTW, cjtmini's install kit is awesome if you haven't already noticed from reading around :)
 
#7
not really and wrong.

he's got a 70t rear sprocket and running an 11t is going to gear it too low. the 12t or 13t is a much better choice. going smaller on the front does the same thing as installing a larger rear sprocket.

i used a little over 1 box of that same chain he's talking about on my Cat. the chain for it worked perfectly on my DB and would have been too short if i didn't get a second box.
That's what I was thinking when I first seen the question. I would probably go with the 13. He said that he wants more top speed than take off.
 
#8
Ok, can I combine two packs of RLV chain to use with 1 or no master links myself? or do I have to take it somewhere? Ive read that using two master links is frowned upon and dangerous.
 

mybiz

New Member
#10
If you have a farm supply store close to you buy your chain there. But lookout for the cheap crap. Most of there chain is sold in 10' lengths I just picked up a box of #40 10' for $10.56 The bad thing is the farm supply stores don't carry like Oring chains or your stainless
 
#11
stick with your rlv chain it costs more but its worth it...i prefer to not run a master link...rlv sells a small chain press that will push apart and reatatch chain...on your clutches run the13 on the street and change to the11 for the hills..
 
#12
is there a tutorial or video for somewhere for properly connecting chains together, not using the master links? obviously ive never done this before and have not idea how to go about. i have the tools though.
 
#13
You should probably take it to someone that you know can do it right. Obviously, it's a pretty important piece of the puzzle. Scott.
 
#14
Please do not take my word a gospel...

I used the cheap 10 foot box of chain on a 75 MPH mini with a master link properly installed. round nose on top facing the direction of travel. Search Google: (Manufacturer's Supply Mini Bike) A chain breaker is a must and Harbor Frieght has a good one for cheap; $12.00.

Every mini bike has a different power band at different gearing and rpm. So, 11- too low- 12-may be the ticket- 13- too tall for your weight. The large rear sprocket works in your favor. CJT Mini has you covered. Video Included.

There are so many other factor's such as jetting, that we cannot cover everything..

If you have further questions after you decide, please buy a chain breaker move the motor all the way back and put your thumb on the link that needs to be punched out...Then move the motor forward.

TT out! :smile:
 

mybiz

New Member
#15
tools

is there a tutorial or video for somewhere for properly connecting chains together, not using the master links? obviously ive never done this before and have not idea how to go about. i have the tools though.
You sound as bad as me. I to have tools I've bought and never have used before I also got a boat load of tools I've never opened. But if ever I should need a tool I more than likely got it if I can ever remember were i put it.:doah:
 
#17
the chain will really only go together one way. just make sure the pin is all the way in and the chain isn't binding up in that spot. roll the rear wheel a bit if it seems tight and it may loosen up a bit on that link.
 
#19
I think i worded it wrong before... i mean its simple to connect the chain together but I guess my main concern was "is this really it? insert the pin and that is all that holds this together?"

Before I actually looked at the chain. I thought the pin had riveted-like ends (mushroom tops) that hold it in. And when you push this out obviously it wouldnt work again. so my concern was about when putting a pin in, how it would be properly secured...

Is it me or does it seems as if the pin could just fall out any moment even though its really snug in there? because the links move and could loosen the pin
 
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