Not a nice surprise - Baja 196cc MB165 motor spark plug socket stripped

[KozmoK]

I received my gaskets tonight! and guess what ? SHE RUNS!

Now the monsterscooter pull recoil starter I got sucks, I think its because the metal pulley it connects to on the flywheel may be out of shape a tad bit.

Anyways, the pull starter does not retract the rope anymore ;( going to order a different brand.

 

[DeadPixel]

Kinda makes you wonder what happened in the first place. Did the former owner use a plug that extended too far into the combustion chamber leaving it exposed to years of carbon buildup? Or did they cross thread the thing in? Myself, I do not install sparkplugs into anything without a light coat of anti seize on the threads. This is one of my prep items on my clones before they are ever first started.

I never use gasket sealer unless it is called for. On these small engines it is not needed. I guess a lot of people use it to be more confident with the installation or they are already dealing with a leaking issue they are attempting to correct.

SAS289 I would be careful using anti seize as it can effect the heat transfer from the plug to the head and cause your plug to run hotter than it should. I always put plugs in dry or a light coat of engine oil if the threads are a little rough. Petroleum jelly would be a good replacement too as it dose not effect the torquing of parts and will not cause a heat transfer problem. Anti seize also effects the torquing of parts and I think I might be the only person who ever torques my plugs on motors.

 

[Raskin]

Awsum news..good job..you could check measurements on cup and bend back..i cut my ropes shorter on recoil because just too much rope.you don't really need much rope as long as not pulling out to end when starting..cheers

 

[Havasu Dave]

SAS289 I would be careful using anti seize as it can effect the heat transfer from the plug to the head and cause your plug to run hotter than it should. I always put plugs in dry or a light coat of engine oil if the threads are a little rough. Petroleum jelly would be a good replacement too as it dose not effect the torquing of parts and will not cause a heat transfer problem. Anti seize also effects the torquing of parts and I think I might be the only person who ever torques my plugs on motors.

Yet many of us do use anti seize on spark plug threads, especially when they're going into aluminum heads. Personally, I use it on any steel fastener going in to aluminum. And no, you are not the only person who torques the plugs on their engines.

Several engine builders use anti seize on all fasteners going in to aluminum, and high torque requirements such as cylinder head torqueing require measuring bolt stretch, not torque, at least by performance engine builders.

Anti seize used on spark plugs should be graphite based. As for standard fasteners, it is generally stated that an assumed 25% reduction of torque values in grades 5 and 8 should be used.

This is the stuff Champion sells. It's not snake oil, especially if you're faced with removing a complicated head and the ancillary parts (induction, fuel, exhaust) for a plug insert (helicoil) job.



Quite honestly, there have been several posts lately from this to paint that have been filled with opinion stated as fact. Not all of us are high school kids playing on the internet.

 

[ole4]

Dave is spot on! You should always use antiseize with an aluminum head on the spark plug threads, as well as any stainless on stainless applications such as using stainless nuts and bolts.

 

[DeadPixel]

Well maybe I am wrong but I was told it can prevent the plug from properly transferring the heat to the head and case detonation. Maybe I am wrong.

 

[FOMOGO]

Yet many of us do use anti seize on spark plug threads, especially when they're going into aluminum heads. Personally, I use it on any steel fastener going in to aluminum. And no, you are not the only person who torques the plugs on their engines.

Several engine builders use anti seize on all fasteners going in to aluminum, and high torque requirements such as cylinder head torqueing require measuring bolt stretch, not torque, at least by performance engine builders.

Anti seize used on spark plugs should be graphite based. As for standard fasteners, it is generally stated that an assumed 25% reduction of torque values in grades 5 and 8 should be used.

This is the stuff Champion sells. It's not snake oil, especially if you're faced with removing a complicated head and the ancillary parts (induction, fuel, exhaust) for a plug insert (helicoil) job.

View attachment 94701

Quite honestly, there have been several posts lately from this to paint that have been filled with opinion stated as fact. Not all of us are high school kids playing on the internet.

Dave is spot on! You should always use antiseize with an aluminum head on the spark plug threads, as well as any stainless on stainless applications such as using stainless nuts and bolts.

Yes & Yes to both of the above post. If it threads into aluminum it needs anti seize. And If its stainless it needs anti seize. Both applications are subject to the threads galling and then pulling out or just ringing off. Another place that gets overlooked way to often is the lug studs on every car, truck and trailer on the road. Impact wrenches are hard on the threads and the anti seize prevents them from being damaged. I believe in anti seize on lots of things. Especially if it stands a chance of having to be removed again.

Doug

 

[Havasu Dave]

Yeah Doug. One could drill down a bit without getting too technical here. Anti seize is for both the installation AND the removal. Petroleum based lubricants do not hold up to very much heat, but do work well on lugs and the like.

In addition to galling that can occur with any fastener that is harder than the threaded hole, you also introduce galvanic, or dissimilar metal corrosion. Add heat to this, and you're just another garage hack wondering if you are going to be able to drill a hole accurate enough to get the eazy-out on the bolt, if you are going to snap the eazy-out in the bolt, and if you are centered enough to even re-tap, IF you get the mess out of there. (Introduce high tech fastener dissolving)

As I was telling a guy in a PM, when you are laying beneath a turbo car with a handful of plug helicoils and $75 worth of drill bits you will use once, verses removing the head, the fuel injection system, the exhaust and turbo system, replacement gaskets and seals, replacement ARP headstuds, twin cam re-timing, cam chain removal, and about three days of shitty work, you beg the creator of all things mechanical to go back in time, and force the a55hole before you to put a dab of graphite-based anti-seize on the plugs.

 

[creia]

Well maybe I am wrong but I was told it can prevent the plug from properly transferring the heat to the head and case detonation. Maybe I am wrong.

I do not know where you heard that information. Using antiseize on spark plugs has been the industry standard/practice for as long as I have been around (63+ yrs). Is this something new?
Michael

 

[Raskin]

Good info.:thumbsup:.. thanks for saving me future grief..i always just use a little oil on threads of spark plugs and carefully snug them a bit coz i know they can seize..i should get me some antiseize

 

[SAS289]

Raskin. And if used properly you will probably be dead and gone before you use the whole bottle. I think I have only had 3 bottles since the 1980's. And I use that sh** on everything. A little goes a long way. No need to overuse it.

And staying on subject it could probably be used (very light coat) on the crank output shaft just before you slide the clutch on. Do not get any near the crank seal.

 

[Raskin]

Raskin. And if used properly you will probably be dead and gone before you use the whole bottle. I think I have only had 3 bottles since the 1980's. And I use that sh** on everything. A little goes a long way. No need to overuse it.

And staying on subject it could probably be used (very light coat) on the crank output shaft just before you slide the clutch on. Do not get any near the crank seal.

..there will be alot of stuff my kids won't know what to do with when I'm gone..they be like wow what is this .hehehe

 

[DeadPixel]

I do not know where you heard that information. Using antiseize on spark plugs has been the industry standard/practice for as long as I have been around (63+ yrs). Is this something new?
Michael

I don't even remember who told me this it was so long ago. Been wrenching on motors as a hobby for about 18 years now. None of my hot rods have had aluminum heads though. Had a set of Edelbrocks once but never put them on. Had a few imports with aluminum heads but even those I have installed dry or with a little motor oil. Its super rare I even use oil though. Will try the anti seize on my new motor. I need to put a new plug in the lawn mower and tiller too this spring so will try on them too. Just cuz I have been doing something for 18 years don't mean I have been doing it right. I though I learned it from some information I got with a set of heads once or something but like I said it was a long time ago because I have thought this for a long time.

 

[Evil Tweety Bird]

You want to see galvanic corrosion? Take a look at a fire truck sometime. The folks who build them seem to have no clue about dissimilar metals and how they react to each other. I retired from the body business, and we would get in their trucks on occasion. Dear lord what we had to go through getting them apart. Aluminum body panels, stainless trim, and base steel fasteners all connected together without any type of insulation. Screws and bolts would be like they were welded together, the aluminum would be cratered like the moon. All hidden under a bubbled paint finish after a couple of years.


Me? I swear by my bottle of Seligs anti seize, had since 1976 and it's still has a bunch left in it. I swear the stuff reproduces in the can.