Old Briggs 6HP engine -- flywheel removal?

[capguncowboy]

I picked up a BearKat this past summer and finally got around to working on it. It's actually in pretty good working order aside from a stuck valve, but I'm going to go ahead and rebuild it anyway.

However, I can't seem to get the flywheel off -- or rather, I can't seem to figure out how it comes off.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[CarPlayLB]

ya got get that starter clutch off it first! That piece acts as the nut. There is a special tool to get it off...or there is a hammer and punch method to tap on the "ears" of that unit. Lefty loosey, righty tighty! Hold the flywheel and start tapping!

 

[capguncowboy]

ya got get that starter clutch off it first! That piece acts as the nut. There is a special tool to get it off...or there is a hammer and punch method to tap on the "ears" of that unit. Lefty loosey, righty tighty! Hold the flywheel and start tapping!

Thanks! I thought I should ask before I started pounding on anything! I'll report back soon. Just in case, how hard are these start clutches to find? You know, in case something goes terribly wrong

 

[CarPlayLB]

Thanks! I thought I should ask before I started pounding on anything! I'll report back soon. Just in case, how hard are these start clutches to find? You know, in case something goes terribly wrong

I probably have one for you if it's the same as a Briggs 5...and don't hit the flywheel! You may have to smack it pretty good. Some quality mechanics will also use a strap wrench on it...I like hammers!

 

[Docdc]

Hi CGC,

I have to admit that I have taken a large pipe wrench and carefully backed the starter clutch off many times without breaking one. Having said that I would say murphy's law---next time I go to take one off, there is goes---or the first time you try it it will break.

It's just what I have done in the past, only try it at you're own risk.

Doc

 

[CarPlayLB]

I don't know that i would worry about that one! It looks pretty roached! Bigger hammer!

 

[capguncowboy]

I was able to get it off with a little persuasion from a flat head screw driver and a hammer. Then the flywheel was fairly simple to remove after that.

Now I've got the points housing exposed. Any suggestions here? I removed the two small bolts, but don't see any obvious clues. Does it just slide off?

It's funny -- with as rough as this thing looks, and as smoothly as it spins, I thought the rod was snapped off. It's not. I can't believe the state of the internals.

I also expected this one to have an iron sleeve on the bore, but it doesn't.

Thanks again for all your help

 

[CarPlayLB]

the points cover will pull off after removing the two screws. It will be stuck on there as they used a sealant where the wire comes out. It is pretty thin stuff, so no hammers here!

 

[capguncowboy]

Yeah, once I got it cleaned up a little, it was plain to see that it slid right off.

This thing has been to hell and back. I can't wait to get some life through it again. I'd bet it's been at least 40 years judging by the state of that sludge... err... oil...

Thanks Eric and Doc -- On to the next step!

 

[CarPlayLB]

what else I gotta do for you? I practically tore this thing apart for you from my keyboard! Does that make me a keyboard hero?

 

[capguncowboy]

what else I gotta do for you? I practically tore this thing apart for you from my keyboard! Does that make me a keyboard hero?

I'm sending over an orchestra to play music during your victory lap

 

[Dr. Shop Teacher]

That's not an iron bore? Your model number says it should be and my manual confirms it. Wonder if the block was swapped out? Also wonder if you can go points free if there is a 4 bolt modern magneto replacement. Points on a Briggs aren't too bad to set up, just a pain.

 

[CarPlayLB]

I'm sending over an orchestra to play music during your victory lap

that is cool with me! Smells like "victory"!

 

[capguncowboy]

That's not an iron bore? Your model number says it should be and my manual confirms it. Wonder if the block was swapped out? Also wonder if you can go points free if there is a 4 bolt modern magneto replacement. Points on a Briggs aren't too bad to set up, just a pain.

Nope, no iron sleeve.

I have doubts that it was ever tampered with. Most of the bolts were stuck pretty good. I read a post by Ogy somewhere that if you convert it to EIC, you have to swap out the flywheel too, since it's a 2 magnet flywheel.

I'd like to keep this engine original, if I can. The few places I can find info on them say they run like champs. I can't see any reason to tamper with it unless I can't get it going for some reason. The bike that it goes on is such a one-off, i feel like I need to do everything I can to preserve it the way it was built.

 

[Dr. Shop Teacher]

Nope, no iron sleeve.

I have doubts that it was ever tampered with. Most of the bolts were stuck pretty good. I read a post by Ogy somewhere that if you convert it to EIC, you have to swap out the flywheel too, since it's a 2 magnet flywheel.

I'd like to keep this engine original, if I can. The few places I can find info on them say they run like champs. I can't see any reason to tamper with it unless I can't get it going for some reason. The bike that it goes on is such a one-off, i feel like I need to do everything I can to preserve it the way it was built.

Ooops!:facepalm: My terminology was wrong--meant sleeve. Yep, flywheel would need to be changed. It's in good hands (especially with Eric providing technical support)!:thumbsup:

 

[Havasu Dave]

I read a post by Ogy somewhere that if you convert it to EIC, you have to swap out the flywheel too, since it's a 2 magnet flywheel.

And a few others..hmy: say during a Tote Gote restoration.

I can certainly appreciate wanting to keep it stock, but on some of these bikes, you don't want to end up pulling the engine at some point down the road to clean some points. (Complexity in drive, etc) Just food for thought. But you'd need the later 8HP wheel. Cheap to buy, but not to ship.

 

[capguncowboy]

And a few others..hmy: say during a Tote Gote restoration.

I can certainly appreciate wanting to keep it stock, but on some of these bikes, you don't want to end up pulling the engine at some point down the road to clean some points. (Complexity in drive, etc) Just food for thought. But you'd need the later 8HP wheel. Cheap to buy, but not to ship.

Thanks for the tip Dave. I'll be sure to look into it. The original points were surprisingly in really good shape. They don't look like they even need to be cleaned. That being said, I'm not sure how much this engine was even ran. It doesn't look like it was ran too much looking at the exhaust port, but there is a chance it was rebuilt or cleaned at some point too.

Which flywheel would I need to get? I'm assuming they're not all the same

 

[Havasu Dave]

Thanks for the tip Dave. I'll be sure to look into it. The original points were surprisingly in really good shape. They don't look like they even need to be cleaned. That being said, I'm not sure how much this engine was even ran. It doesn't look like it was ran too much looking at the exhaust port, but there is a chance it was rebuilt or cleaned at some point too.

Which flywheel would I need to get? I'm assuming they're not all the same

I'll have to go into my scrap pile and dig out the wheel that didn't work. Now that I recall, I used an older 6HP wheel, which might have been the one you have on now. I'll check on it.

Edit: Just read that the Stens conversion module comes with instructions to reverse the wires in the event it doesn't work. Then I read about sending wheels in to Briggs for the cost of shipping to be re-polarized.

Sheesh, as much hassle as this sounds, just stick with points, and get a new plunger just in case. Points will last four or five years anyway.

 

[capguncowboy]

I'll have to go into my scrap pile and dig out the wheel that didn't work. Now that I recall, I used an older 6HP wheel, which might have been the one you have on now. I'll check on it.

Edit: Just read that the Stens conversion module comes with instructions to reverse the wires in the event it doesn't work. Then I read about sending wheels in to Briggs for the cost of shipping to be re-polarized.

Sheesh, as much hassle as this sounds, just stick with points, and get a new plunger just in case. Points will last four or five years anyway.

Ha, that's what I had figured. And as little as the bike will be ran/ridden, I would imagine it'd last longer. I'll look into a little before I declare defeat, but from what I'm reading on a few different forums, the EIC conversion is well worth the hassle.

Honestly, I don't know if I should bother changing anything though. I know myself well enough to know that I'll probably sell the bike as soon as I'm done building it anyway. :doah: