Older kart identification

[twolittlebroncos]

I picked up a go kart at a yard sale. Trying to identify it to see if it's worth anything before I start working on getting it going again. Please help me identify it if you can.

I'd like information on how to rebuild the drum brake as it seems to be sticking a bit. Any ideas there?

The kart came with a motor and sprocket without a clutch. Is it possible to ride it this way? If so, how do you get it started? I can get the kart started with the back wheels elevated using jack stands, but I have not been able to push start it.

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu26/twolittlebroncos/kart1.jpg

 

[steven Durham]

Well I think it is an early Dart A-Bone made by Rupp industries ans YES it is a very desirable kart to restore. worth what someone will pay is our stock answer here on OldMiniBikes.
First off twolittlebroncos Welcome to the OldMiniBikes. This Kart is something that you need to do some research on and make your own decision on how you want to use it.
Steve

 

[twolittlebroncos]

Thanks, your lead has helped me find a lot more information. Not sure if I am interested in dropping $1k into restoring a kart right now, but I will definitely refrain from modifying or destroying the original parts just in case it becomes a restoration candidate down the road.

My first challenge is to get the Bendix brake working correctly. It seems to be catching. I am not even sure how to open up the brake drum to take a look.

Any suggestions?

 

[steven Durham]

I would need more pictures of that area of the kart.
Steve

 

[twolittlebroncos]

Here are the best pictures of the brakes for now. I will try to take additional pictures when I start working on it again.

I don't know if you'll be able to tell much from these shots or not.

 

[jbrewton]

Welcome!

Not sure where the 1K figure came from but you're half way to a running kart!
I'd surely fix it up and enjoy.

From the looks of your tool board you have the needed hammer to make any adjustments!

 

[steven Durham]

Brakes are dragging me down

Here are the best pictures of the brakes for now. I will try to take additional pictures when I start working on it again.

I don't know if you'll be able to tell much from these shots or not.

What it looks like is a Bendix 6 inch brake very common in those days. And someone added the cooling fins to the outer drum. With that type it is 90% of the time the hub is a Vari-Hub that locks the drum to the axle and I think 3 bolts lock the tapered center of the hub to the Axel .
Hope this helps.
Steve

 

[twolittlebroncos]

Impressive identification from those photos.

I'm still stuck though. I have removed every nut and bolt I can see and I still don't understand how to get the thing apart.

I'm guessing I need to remove one of the collars on either side of the brake (one might be the vari-hub you mentioned), but I can't tell how they come apart.

I am attaching more pictures in hopes you can help me see where this should come apart. Thanks again for your help.

 

[Bonanza Bryan]

It could be a pain to get off espically if you have alot of paint on that axle. Mine had literally 1/4 inch of paint on it. I ended up cutting my axle up and pressing it off. I think you could just get away with spraying some penetrating oil aroung the brake let it set and then give it another spray and try your luck after that.

 

[The Restore Kid]

Welcome!

Not sure where the 1K figure came from but you're half way to a running kart!

Never bought the engines and parts to restore one to correct racing original, have ya? :mellow: Those things are worth more than most peoples car...

 

[jbrewton]

Never bought the engines and parts to restore one to correct racing original, have ya? :mellow: Those things are worth more than most peoples car...

OK, then my car's worth more than 1K!
and it has a CD player!

 

[The Restore Kid]

OK, then my car's worth more than 1K!
and it has a CD player!

I made one that cost $63,022 once.. :mellow:

OK so that was a lye....

But 1K is not hard at all.. :shrug: Try buying a 68 TT500 in perfect restored conditioned a few years ago :shrug:

 

[steven Durham]

Where is the big hammer ??

Impressive identification from those photos.

I'm still stuck though. I have removed every nut and bolt I can see and I still don't understand how to get the thing apart.

I'm guessing I need to remove one of the collars on either side of the brake (one might be the Vari-hub you mentioned), but I can't tell how they come apart.

I am attaching more pictures in hopes you can help me see where this should come apart. Thanks again for your help.

great pictures and they do help. The backing plate and the triangle bearing retainer is where to start. Clean off the paint off the axle first it will just fight you all the way. The black part of that bearing looks like it is a concentric lock bearing it should have one hole for a set screw that is threaded. and another hole that is about 3/16 deep and to unlock this shaft lock you must drive that lock around about 1/6 of a turn by using a drift punch and hammer then the bearing will allow you remove it from the shaft.
The Vari-hub is a taper fit you should turn the 3 bolts back into the threads of the hubs center, leave a 1/4 gap and use a block of wood and tap the two parts first and use some penetrating fluid like WD-40 or Blaster
Start by taping only on the two hub half's and not on the bolt heads.
Remember these parts are just lightweight cast aluminum.
Steve

 

[Jeff Clark]

On the brake, the three bolts you undid on the inner round piece around the axle thats a die cast wedge that fits in the blue piece, take the three bolts all the way out tap the blue piece with the 6 bolt holes that bolts to the drum on the outer edge with a plastic dead blow hammer. This will force the inner wedge piece away. Take the wheel hub off the axle the die cast inner pice will then slide off the axle and the drum mount will then also..

 

[Jeff Clark]

Never bought the engines and parts to restore one to correct racing original, have ya? :mellow: Those things are worth more than most peoples car...

The 67 McCulloch 101's in my R300 im in 2700.00 the whole kart about 6300.00

 

[Jeff Clark]

Sorry for the bad pic but this may give you a better idea. The inner wedge locks the outer ring. The three bolts have to be out, some have two extra holes that are threaded in the wedge and you can just tighten two bolts to press the parts away like in pic but not all have the two tapped holes.

 

[steven Durham]

Now that's a good picture. I sold a lot of them but was not sure about the push bolt feature. The new Azusa Brake does not use the Vari-Hub. I think in 1974 the McCulloch 101A engines were about $150.00 price controlled by IKS regulations.
Steve

 

[twolittlebroncos]

Guys, I can't thank you enough for your help. I am still working on this thing (I only get about an hour a day after the kids go to bed).

I have not yet removed the vari-hub, but I was still able to get enough room to get the drum back together and brake shoes aligned (they had become loose in the drum which is why I started this axle disassembly adventure).

Now though, I will definitely need to remove the vari-hub to get enough space to bolt the drum back to the vari-hub for reassembly.

Your instructions will be pricelss, but I am still a bit confused. Steven when you mentioned unlocking the shaft with a 1/6 turn were you referring to the vari-hub or the outer hub where the wheel attaches to the axle?

If I understand correctly, I can thread a bolt into the 4th hole (smaller than the other three) on the vari-hub wedge to push the wedge out of the larger ring. Is that correct? If so, I just need to find the right size bolt.

Part of my confusion is not knowing which way the parts need to travel on the shaft. I'm not opposed to big hammers, but I don't want to hammer in the wrong direction.

Once the wedge is out of the vari-hub then the larger ring will freely slide toward the wheel end of the shaft, correct?

Thanks again for your posts. I came in from the garage last night after working on the drum and I was ecstatic to see some tips. Otherwise I would be completely lost instead of partially lost.

 

[Jeff Clark]

Now that's a good picture. I sold a lot of them but was not sure about the push bolt feature. The new Azusa Brake does not use the Vari-Hub. I think in 1974 the McCulloch 101A engines were about $150.00 price controlled by IKS regulations.
Steve

Ill take 100 of the 101's for 150ea cash in hand :laugh:

 

[rebelyell]

FIRST, remove the paint from the axle. This is at least half of your problem.
These parts are a very, VERY snug fit. It's not like you'll have room to wiggle it off.
The smallest nick in the axle can prevent removal and cause furious anger, believe you me. Sand that baby smooth after removing the paint.
There are two holes in the sleeve that is inboard on the axle.
One can be seen in your 4th pic above, right under the nut holding your brake lever onto the shaft and also in the third pic at about the 4 o'clock position.
In these holes, there could be threaded set screws that are removed with an allen/hex wrench.
These are the holes that SteveDunham is referring to. The insides of these collars are oval-shaped and 'lock' when turned. Remove set screw (allen/hex), and then tap the collar counter-clockwise to unlock.
Other than that, follow Steve Dunham's instructions.