Rayvel67+SonMore than twowheelsSteaker

P

Pizzle

New Member
#41
#41
Ray,
How wide of an axle do you have on the bike? i looked for shorter axles but decided to just cut the one i ordered from BMI down. It looks like you have an axle with no threaded ends but has the keyway down the middle, are you going to thread the end of the rods or are you going to use locking collars to keep the wheels on? I know the shortest i found was around 34 inches and the axle on mine is probably around 24 inches and could be a little narrower if i wanted. I used the racing douglas wheels and the aluminum hubs with locking collars and so far so good. I just did not feel comfortable threading the end of a 1 inch axle, nor using locking collars. I sent you a PM with my number.

One other issue i had was welding the bearing hangers to the back of the frame and getting the tracking straight on the sprocket. The way the frame is angled it makes it difficult to get everything straight. I used a wooden jig to get them where they needed to be and it works perfect and tracks straight even with no hands on the bars

The reason i asked about gearing is because trying to turn those big tires you are going to need a big sprocket and mounting the bearing hangers inside the frame does not allow you to run a big sprocket. I started out with a 72 spilt sprocket and could not get the chain and motor to line up because the sprocket hit the frame rail. I ended up using a 60 sprocket and i have less than an 1/8 inch of clearance from the chain to the inside of the frame. It is not idea ratio but the tires in the back are a lot smaller so that helps alot. With the 60 sprocket it has more than enough to throw my fat self off the back. for reference i believe my rear tires are 5-5-10, so only about 10-10.5 tall

One other thing to consider is this bike does not turn worth a flip with the live axle. I suspect with the big tires you are running it will be a challeng as well. Have you considered going with a differential on yours? I literally have to lean all the way forward or put it on 2 wheels to get it to turn. My next one will have the northern tool or surplus center differential on it cause it is a bear on the street.

Keep up the good work and call me if you have any questions. Great job so far.

What color are you thinking?
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#43
#43
Pizzle said:
Ray,
How wide of an axle do you have on the bike? i looked for shorter axles but decided to just cut the one i ordered from BMI down. It looks like you have an axle with no threaded ends but has the keyway down the middle, are you going to thread the end of the rods or are you going to use locking collars to keep the wheels on? I know the shortest i found was around 34 inches and the axle on mine is probably around 24 inches and could be a little narrower if i wanted. I used the racing douglas wheels and the aluminum hubs with locking collars and so far so good. I just did not feel comfortable threading the end of a 1 inch axle, nor using locking collars. I sent you a PM with my number.

One other issue i had was welding the bearing hangers to the back of the frame and getting the tracking straight on the sprocket. The way the frame is angled it makes it difficult to get everything straight. I used a wooden jig to get them where they needed to be and it works perfect and tracks straight even with no hands on the bars

The reason i asked about gearing is because trying to turn those big tires you are going to need a big sprocket and mounting the bearing hangers inside the frame does not allow you to run a big sprocket. I started out with a 72 spilt sprocket and could not get the chain and motor to line up because the sprocket hit the frame rail. I ended up using a 60 sprocket and i have less than an 1/8 inch of clearance from the chain to the inside of the frame. It is not idea ratio but the tires in the back are a lot smaller so that helps alot. With the 60 sprocket it has more than enough to throw my fat self off the back. for reference i believe my rear tires are 5-5-10, so only about 10-10.5 tall

One other thing to consider is this bike does not turn worth a flip with the live axle. I suspect with the big tires you are running it will be a challeng as well. Have you considered going with a differential on yours? I literally have to lean all the way forward or put it on 2 wheels to get it to turn. My next one will have the northern tool or surplus center differential on it cause it is a bear on the street.

Keep up the good work and call me if you have any questions. Great job so far.

What color are you thinking?
Click to expand...
pizzle sure gave you a lot to think about . think if you if you mount you're bearing hangers in a different location you may avoid the clearence issue :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
rayvel67

rayvel67

Member
#44
#44
trinik
he sure did. I really don't think i will have an issue with the clearance. Look like he's mike is smaller than mine(could be wrong:shrug:).
 
rayvel67

rayvel67

Member
#45
#45
Ray,
How wide of an axle do you have on the bike? 36”
I’m sure it’s going to be shorter than 36”(it was the same price anyway:thumbsup:). I will be using the locking collars on each end. Will i need to put two on each wheel or just one on each end?


I just did not feel comfortable threading the end of a 1 inch axle, nor using locking collars. Me too man. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

One other issue i had was welding the bearing hangers to the back of the frame and getting the tracking straight on the sprocket. I know it’s going to be an issues for me since I’m not a welder. Still learning on this.

The way the frame is angled it makes it difficult to get everything straight. I used a wooden jig to get them where they needed to be and it works perfect and tracks straight even with no hands on the bars. Great idea man will try that for sure.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


The reason i asked about gearing is because trying to turn those big tires you are going to need a big sprocket and mounting the bearing hangers inside the frame does not allow you to run a big sprocket. I started out with a 72 spilt sprocket and could not get the chain and motor to line up because the sprocket hit the frame rail. I ended up using a 60 sprocket and i have less than an 1/8 inch of clearance from the chain to the inside of the frame. I really don’t think I will have an issues with the clearance. My frame looks bigger than yours(not sure i could be wrong). I’m going with a 72 spilt sprocket. I’m building this bike for my son so I really don’t need to go too fast.

rear tires are 5-5-10, so only about 10-10.5 tall I’m thinking of going with 13x5x6 on the rear.


One other thing to consider is this bike does not turn worth a flip with the live axle. I suspect with the big tires you are running it will be a challeng as well. Have you considered going with a differential on yours? I literally have to lean all the way forward or put it on 2 wheels to get it to turn. My next one will have the northern tool or surplus center differential on it cause it is a bear on the street.
I didn’t know they made differential for mini bike. I really will have to considered this one.


Keep up the good work and call me if you have any questions. Great job so far. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


What color are you thinking? Not sure. I’m letting my son pick the color. He told me he would like to keep the same color may just go with that. If we go with the same color we my paint the motor red. Not sure how that’s going to look.

Thank you very much for taking the time to write this out man really :bowdown::bowdown:
 
rayvel67

rayvel67

Member
#46
#46
Got some work done on the engine.
Fixed the starter
Had to change this piece
not sure what is called. Thank you Owen for your help :thumbsup:
Took the engine apart
Ready for some paint :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
rayvel67

rayvel67

Member
#49
#49
Got some parts this weekend and got a little done :thumbsup:



I decided to go with the differential setup.(Thank you Randy and Bryan for the parts :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:, Great price on the parts)
 
rayvel67

rayvel67

Member
#53
#53
Need some help

I had already setup the bearing hangers but it's not going to work. Hangers need to be placed outside of the frame in order for the differential to fit. Won't be able to use those hangers anymore too short:shrug::shrug:
The hangers that came with the bearing are 1/4 width. I have a sheet of metal which is 1/8. would i be able to use this sheet? or does it need to be 1/4

Thank you
 
firemarshal71

firemarshal71

#54
#54
I think 1/8 is too thin. Maybe a picture would help understand what you mean by outside the frame. I have welded those type of hangers on the sides of the frame before and it worked well for me instead of welding them on center. What do you mean though, by too short? I can see if I can find a picture of what I did provided I am understanding your problem correctly.

here is a picture of the brackets welded to the outside of the frame, really kind of hard to see but maybe you can zoom in and get the idea. It helped fit the profile of the bend better this way and the weld fills up the gap between the bracket and tube.
 
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firemarshal71

firemarshal71

#57
#57
if the profile has already been trimmed on the bracket, you may still be able to roll it more towards the outside of the frame. I use the 2-bolt style brackets and don't have the problem that you might with the 3-bolts. If you don't want to buy new brackets, you can get new flangettes with the 2-bolt pattern. I found mine local at the farm and fleet store for $2 something each. This way you can move them outward and still have access to the 2 bolts.

Of course this is only going to give you an inch (1/2 on each side) at most clearance -so if your diff requires more space than that, you will have to rethink the bracket mounts.
 
rayvel67

rayvel67

Member
#59
#59
Firemarshal Thank you for your help.

I'm going with new hangers. Got a new steel 4"x 20"x 1/4 for $10.00:thumbsup::thumbsup:
Here are picture of the hangers
 
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