stroked gx200 help

#1
so I am looking to build my gx200 check it out here(http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/ebay-craigslist/88738-gx200-just-picked-up.html) I am planning on using in stead of the lifan 110 or 125cc engine for my 3 wheeler project that I am trying to put together. so what I am looking for is a low end torque build was thinking a 274 series camshaft the 274-0207 or 274-0211 probably the 274-0211 cause I am not trying to buy a new head and do what is necessary to get the compression that high. but was thinking that stroking the engine would be great but did not want to do a crank that was going to cost me 500 bucks so where I need help is can I just stick this crank: DJ-1275MS Crankshaft, Max Stroke GX200/Clone in with no other mods other than the crank and what rod should I use for it should I use the .020 over or the stock length one or what? should I use a thin ring flat top piston or factory dished?
 
#2
ok so I am an idiot :confused: that is really just a factory crank from what I can tell can any one point me in the direction of a stroked crank that I can just plug n play and will not require me to pay a :censure: ton of money to get balanced or is there a such thing?
 
#5
If it were me i would go with the above stroker crank , but use the honda one . Don't put that clone junk in a real honda , don't put any clone junk in a honda .

We have that .060 over crank in the honda gx 200 that we got from NR racing . Its got the big 274 cam and a bunch of other stuff but it makes 17 ft lb of torque . But the is a 1700 dollar motor .

Personally i would go with a 140 to 160 YX motor , for the money you can;t beat them .
 
#6
yeah if I were going to spend 479 bucks on a stroker kit I would just buy something else like I said I don't want to spend 500 bucks to stroke it out a bit seems crazy :eek:ut: but if I can get something under or around 100 bucks that does not require me to spend more money on balancing and milling out the block I get it no problem but otherwise i'll just stick with the stock crank
 
#7
yeah if I were going to spend 479 bucks on a stroker kit I would just buy something else like I said I don't want to spend 500 bucks to stroke it out a bit seems crazy :eek:ut: but if I can get something under or around 100 bucks that does not require me to spend more money on balancing and milling out the block I get it no problem but otherwise i'll just stick with the stock crank
in my opinion, you are not going to find what you are looking for for $100... you still need a piston and rod, with any stroker you build, piston would need to be cut, etc... and you would want a stroker to be balanced... i think even if you took your stock crank down to be machined (which may work if you have a genuine honda crank)... you would need a longer rod and wiseco piston... if you are going to run a stroker, you might as well increase the bore too... been doing tons of research and have something in the works...

in short, there is no cheap way to build a stroker, unless you can do 100% of your machine work and r&d. I have to rely on a trusted builder for alot of my new build
 
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#9
so what are anyone's objections to the Clone Plus Stroke Crankshaft (Plus .012 - .014) is it just because its a clone crank? whats wrong with a clone crank? I would imagine it has to be better than my Honda 5/8 threaded shaft that I have to use a 5/8 max torque clutch on suppose I could get a Hilliard extreme duty but already have the max torque so...
 
#10
so what are anyone's objections to the Clone Plus Stroke Crankshaft (Plus .012 - .014) is it just because its a clone crank? whats wrong with a clone crank? I would imagine it has to be better than my Honda 5/8 threaded shaft that I have to use a 5/8 max torque clutch on suppose I could get a Hilliard extreme duty but already have the max torque so...
a billet crank is strong... a honda crank takes abuse... i was told not to have work (add stroke, etc) done to the clone cranks, because most experience failure with them...

imho, that little bit of extra stroke wouldnt be worth the time, or any money spent. esp when you are staying with a stock bore... s small piston stroker would prob run good though... but after spending a good amount of money on a standard bore motor and not being happy... i cant see myself doing that again...

of course officially im building an all stock, standard bore, stock cam, motor, :anon.sml: (just not going to be as public with this particular motor) as i did with the hemi motor...

for this three wheeler, i guess you really have to decide what you want out of it... i know you got a great deal on the motor, but when you start getting into building it, it will cost some money...

if you do not want to spend a ton, you should stick with the stock crank, or get a genuine honda crank, billet flywheel, billet rod, cam (with springs), it already has the filter, check you jetting or upgrade to the mikuni setup

cost wise it may look like this:
genuine honda crank ($90 new), might as well stick with what you got
rod $83.95
cam (isky black mamba jr or normal) $65, with 26 lb springs and oil
flywheel $100, with 8 degree advance built in
140 etube $7, you already have the filter
make sure jetting is right, or drill it out, free, or the cost of the drill bits at harbor freight $4
do minor port work to the head, do not mill it, free
subtotal, not including crank (before shipping) : $259.95... add about $50 for shipping to be safe in your estimate

runs decent (im sure much better than stock), doesnt cost a horrible amount of money, etc., less than the cost of a 420 or 390 and upgrading and much less than the cost of a stroker... if you go stroker, you should do more to get you money's worth out of it... :shrug:

however. the first thing i would do, before i spent a dime... i just get the motor on the project and run it... this helps, because to me, a standard bore motor, compared to a stroked out monster, is night and day... and i would have went straight to the bigger stuff, had i completely thought it through... i have over $1000 in the hemi... and now that ive switched the head to try a honda against it... i am well into the $1500 ish or more range... and no where near happy!
 
#13
Yea and for that kind of money he can have a Anima 190 with a trans and stupid power .:thumbsup:
your really makin me think about that one, on that black frame doodlebug i cut up! lol... but im waiting to hear your official report.. i need some crazy power for the next two frames
 
#14
your really makin me think about that one, on that black frame doodlebug i cut up! lol... but im waiting to hear your official report.. i need some crazy power for the next two frames
From what i see on you tube vids and what the guys on planet minis are telling me that the motor install is way past insane and most just say don't do it , for health reasons , leads me to believe this is going to be fun
 
#15
ok so stroker is out :doah: and yeah I have that air filter but plan on using mukuni carb and like the smaller k&n that I have on my badger 100 just case its not huge(just think it looks better) but for a high torque build you suggest the black mamba cam over the 274-0211 from nr? thought about using the 274-0207 but 11:1 compression and 30+ lbs springs could I even pull start anymore? and how do I get that high hell what is needed to get me just under or at 10.5:1 for the 274-0211 cam?
 
#16
ok so stroker is out :doah: and yeah I have that air filter but plan on using mukuni carb and like the smaller k&n that I have on my badger 100 just case its not huge(just think it looks better) but for a high torque build you suggest the black mamba cam over the 274-0211 from nr? thought about using the 274-0207 but 11:1 compression and 30+ lbs springs could I even pull start anymore? and how do I get that high hell what is needed to get me just under or at 10.5:1 for the 274-0211 cam?
for more torque i would use a black mamba jr. (isky cam)... i pull start my motor and it has higher compression than that... the cam has a compression release still on it too... isky cams come with 26 lb springs and fhs 62r oil for $65
 
#17
If you are after torque, a high compression head will go a lo g way with achieving that. In fact, compression will help power and torque throughout the power range. And run a low duration cam for torque.
 
#19
ok cool black mamba jr cam what timing and compression should I run for that cam?
total timing between 31-33 :shrug: verify with light or degree wheel

if you mill the head, you may/should need pushrods :shrug:

mill to 15cc :shrug:

the problem with me is... after all that i have in a stock bore motor, it isnt enough... i did not verify compression... have two heads for the motor (one hemi) and im not certain on the compression as i have not checked so any number would be an estimate :shrug: the mamba jr will give u more torque/less rpm with same mods

but here is what i have in one (current setup), keep in mind its a predator so little more bore... no where near enough for me:

hemi based block (but doesnt matter, cause only the crank is the same internally)
ARC Billet Flywheel, verified at 32 degrees total timing
ARC 6236 Billet Rod (3.595" X .490"), longer rod
11132P94 Wiseco Piston (2.756" X .640"), shorter piston
Isky Black Mamba cam (275" LIFT 246 DURATION @ .050" 108 L.S.A.)
double springs green stripe
14cc honda head (28.5/25), full race port work, Solocali, F&B Customs head
honda (silver) .010 gasket
GX390 Carb, adj jet (have mikuni 27mm, waiting on intake)
Raceseng Billet Lifters
Raceseng Adj push rods, switched to the raceseng standard length rods for the honda head
raceseng roller rockers (1.2/1.3)
pulse for pump on intake
raceseng billet valve cover, two vents
100 octane vp

isnt running at all right, due to carb issues, but will be resolved soon... was told the new carb will wake the motor up and im sure it will as the bike prob runs fast enough already... however, i need something way more aggressive and unfortunately this is becoming another hobby, just made another few orders, i hope i get burnt out soon!

once you change something in the motor, it seems like you just need more and more... took a break from my drag car project to stop that... isnt working... this bike with the motor is supposed to be a putt around bike. hopefully the new motors are much more aggressive
 
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