stubborn clutch removal, need help
- Thread starter drenchedgremlin
- Start date
- Tags clutch removal stubborn
Drenched, No disrespect to Cheezy but you may find that the allen screw will simply chew your drill bits up. Those screws are made out of some pretty hard steel. If you have any sort of a hole left in the allen screw; you may want to try a bolt/screw extractor. Sears or any good hardware store sells them. They're specifically made for removing broken or damaged bolts etc. Once you get the allen screw out then do like Cheezy said and use a three jaw puller. Good luck, Ogy
It can if the pressure is not relieved on the key .. but most likely no .. like cheezy said you will need a puller if it doesn't slide off by hand once the set screw is drilled out ...
Carbide tipped drill bits https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America-Carbide-Tipped-Conventional-16/dp/B01EBPWXP4/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495041644&sr=1-2&refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A3071286011 will help get through the set screw.
A little advice with carbide tipped drill bits, drill a little, blow out the chips, repeat.
Also in choosing a drill size I would use the tap drill for whatever your drilling out .. in this case its likely 1/4-20 (correct me if I'm wrong) and the tap drill will be a #7 but a 13/64 drill will work ...
I would go to my drill case, get out the 13/64 and give it a go!
Also this is a great time to teach yourself how to hand sharpen a drill!
Carbide tipped drill bits https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America-Carbide-Tipped-Conventional-16/dp/B01EBPWXP4/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495041644&sr=1-2&refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A3071286011 will help get through the set screw.
A little advice with carbide tipped drill bits, drill a little, blow out the chips, repeat.
Also in choosing a drill size I would use the tap drill for whatever your drilling out .. in this case its likely 1/4-20 (correct me if I'm wrong) and the tap drill will be a #7 but a 13/64 drill will work ...
I would go to my drill case, get out the 13/64 and give it a go!
Also this is a great time to teach yourself how to hand sharpen a drill!
The Amazon link above for the carbide bits has a description. In it is says "Used in the production of cast iron, non-ferrous metals, and many composite materials such as hard rubber or copper alloys. Not recommended for drilling steel."
I was at the Detroit Autorama this past winter. They had a guy demonstrating drill bits. He was drilling thru a Nicholson file, ceramic tile etc. He had taps and easy outs with holes drilled in them. The bits are made to drill through hardened steel. They can even drill through your standard drill bits. Quite fascinating to see. They aren't recommended for drilling through soft stuff like brass, aluminum or mild steel however.
They have other items and the cutoff wheels are incredible too
The drill bits aren't cheap. Here is a link to them. I included a link to a video too.
Danford1
https://millnertools.com/collections/frontpage/products/13-piece-multi-purpose-drill-bits
<a data-cke-saved-href="https://millnertools.com/collections/frontpage/products/13-piece-multi-purpose-drill-bits" href="https://millnertools.com/collections/frontpage/products/13-piece-multi-purpose-drill-bits">[video=youtube;7q3uz2okhkw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q3uz2okhkw[/video]
I was at the Detroit Autorama this past winter. They had a guy demonstrating drill bits. He was drilling thru a Nicholson file, ceramic tile etc. He had taps and easy outs with holes drilled in them. The bits are made to drill through hardened steel. They can even drill through your standard drill bits. Quite fascinating to see. They aren't recommended for drilling through soft stuff like brass, aluminum or mild steel however.
They have other items and the cutoff wheels are incredible too
The drill bits aren't cheap. Here is a link to them. I included a link to a video too.Danford1
https://millnertools.com/collections/frontpage/products/13-piece-multi-purpose-drill-bits
<a data-cke-saved-href="https://millnertools.com/collections/frontpage/products/13-piece-multi-purpose-drill-bits" href="https://millnertools.com/collections/frontpage/products/13-piece-multi-purpose-drill-bits">[video=youtube;7q3uz2okhkw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q3uz2okhkw[/video]
An EZ Out set might already engage the set screw without drilling. Try that.
Before I did any of that drilling, I'd soak it with break-free, etc. (machine oil) and wire brush the crankshaft as OGY was saying. Then thread in the 3/8-24 or whatever it is, to the PTO threads. Then I'd pick the engine up, and hold it by the clutch about six inches off of the floor, over some padding. Then I'd smack that PTO bolt head with my five pound hammer a few times, and watch the engine fall off, with the clutch in my hand.
You'd be surprised at how much ass you can give it, when using the engine as the counter weight to the hammer strikes. Or, you can attack it with an angle grinder and toss the clutch in the trash, but save the engine/crank.
Before I did any of that drilling, I'd soak it with break-free, etc. (machine oil) and wire brush the crankshaft as OGY was saying. Then thread in the 3/8-24 or whatever it is, to the PTO threads. Then I'd pick the engine up, and hold it by the clutch about six inches off of the floor, over some padding. Then I'd smack that PTO bolt head with my five pound hammer a few times, and watch the engine fall off, with the clutch in my hand.
You'd be surprised at how much ass you can give it, when using the engine as the counter weight to the hammer strikes. Or, you can attack it with an angle grinder and toss the clutch in the trash, but save the engine/crank.
I've done several that way. If you want to try and save the clutch just use a good quality carbide cutter that's a smaller diameter than the allen screw with a 1/4" die grinder and bore through the allen screw partially into the actual key itself then screw a short hardened bolt (grade 8 or 9) into the end of the crankshaft and vibrate against it good off/on with an air hammer (cut an air chisel bit off flush) while pulling the clutch toward you with just your 1 hand (using your other hand for the air gun) and that usually works very well also. I learned that trick many years ago while trying to remove multiple stubborn stuck vintage auto/truck steering wheels prior to rebuilding the steering columns (vibration works way better than a hammer and or a puller) plus it will not "crack" the steering wheel like a hammer and or puller does. Hope this helps.
I said a new clutch not a new Comet clutch. Here is just one example. $16.54 Free shipping from CA.
Danford1
Centrifugal Clutch fits Predator 212cc 3/4" Bore #35 Chain 12T Go Kart Mini BiUB | eBay
Danford1
Centrifugal Clutch fits Predator 212cc 3/4" Bore #35 Chain 12T Go Kart Mini BiUB | eBay
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Another Comet but it costs more, $34.90 free shipping from Amazon.
Danford1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068C0BWQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZWJFRUR9E0CM
Danford1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068C0BWQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZWJFRUR9E0CM
Yes, we all know you can get cheaper clutches. And Comets are far better, and this guy has an original one.
The fact of the matter is that you advised the guy to use tools he doesn't own, in a methodology that does nothing to preserve a vintage clutch, and now FIVE posts trying to prove me wrong on buying a clutch! It is obvious that a lot of the newer folks are on here for the sole purpose of chest thumping and crowing. I see it in the builds, and the thinly veiled bragging posts, and threads like this one.
[MENTION=16651]drenchedgremlin[/MENTION] all you need to do is drill enough of the bottom of the set screw out to relieve the pressure on the key. Thread in a 5/16 X 24 bolt- one inch long, into the end of the crank. If you have a friend help, it's easier to have one guy hold the engine up by the clutch, while another guy hits the head of the bolt in the crank. A heavy hammer is required, not hard blows.
If you have cleaned up the crank and applied some oil, it will come off. I've done this several times over the years.
I almost hesitate to mention it, but you have a lot of key sticking out. I'd be tempted to weld on some round stock to the key and slide hammer it out, over coming the tension placed on it by the set screw.
The fact of the matter is that you advised the guy to use tools he doesn't own, in a methodology that does nothing to preserve a vintage clutch, and now FIVE posts trying to prove me wrong on buying a clutch! It is obvious that a lot of the newer folks are on here for the sole purpose of chest thumping and crowing. I see it in the builds, and the thinly veiled bragging posts, and threads like this one.
[MENTION=16651]drenchedgremlin[/MENTION] all you need to do is drill enough of the bottom of the set screw out to relieve the pressure on the key. Thread in a 5/16 X 24 bolt- one inch long, into the end of the crank. If you have a friend help, it's easier to have one guy hold the engine up by the clutch, while another guy hits the head of the bolt in the crank. A heavy hammer is required, not hard blows.
If you have cleaned up the crank and applied some oil, it will come off. I've done this several times over the years.
I almost hesitate to mention it, but you have a lot of key sticking out. I'd be tempted to weld on some round stock to the key and slide hammer it out, over coming the tension placed on it by the set screw.