Techuseh H60 Leaking Oil

#1
Engine is on my pressure washer and not mini-bike, but an engine problem is an engine problem and the H60's power many mini-bikes so here goes.

Techuseh H60 6HP 75557U

Leaking oil from the side case up on the top, that appears to be coming from the governor output shaft. I picked up a couple of case gaskets and haven't torn it down yet. Can't really tell if there is an o-ring seal or part that could be the problem from the online IPB's. When I picked up the side case gaskets from a local shop we couldn't tell from their IPB either.

Anyone familiar with these engines have a suggestion on what the problem could be. I am hoping to get whatever parts I may need so I can tear it down and repair it and put back into service without downtime awaiting parts on back order. The washer runs fine, just need to keep an eye on the oil level.







 

jrzmac

Active Member
#2
did you say you pulled the crank case? or is it just leaking from the gov shaft? If you cranked it open, and put a gasket on and tightened it up, your about the 5th person i've seen this year that has an oil leak from the same spot. It happened to me too last year. I tried everything... Until I saw a video on You tube, and the guy said to use Permatex Gasket Sealer. What he say's to do is clean both the side cover, and the block really good. There can't be any old gasket material left, anywhere. Then you apply a light layer of Permatex on the block. Then on the side cover. You let them dry for about 15 minutes... Then you lay the NEW gasket on the block, making sure you get good contact. Put the side cover on, making sure to line everything up just right. SLIGHTLY tap it home if you need to with a rubber mallet. Torque down the bolts and let it sit a day or 2 before putting new oil in. This should take care of the leak!
 
#3
The engine might be over full on oil or cranking more rpm's than it needs to be.. Also, your PCV might be plugged or sticking.. If the crank case can't breath, it will blow oil out were it can.. There's no real seal for that little governor lever..
 
#4
Haven't pulled it down yet - hoping to have all needed parts before tear-down. Appears I do.

Gentlemen, I appreciate your feedback - I'll re-assemble with a judicous coating of Permatex and allow for cure time.

Also, will check the breather assembly.

Oil level is per dipstick marks and runs down to "Add" after 45 minutes or so of run time.

I'll post the results of this little fouray. :thumbsup:
 
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#5
DAMN!! :eek:hmy: It must be burning some major oil...

Permatex is junk.. Do not use it anywhere.. not (form-A-gascket) anyways.. That stuff just turns into big hard mudballs that breaks off..
 
#6
It's not burning any oil, it's leaking oil.

Good point, much like concrete, if it's applied correctly the results are good. If slopped everywhere, as with pouring concrete all over the place, outside of the forms, then yes there will be a mess with potential for catastrophic results.

It's all about the experience of the hand it's in. I've done a little finger painting over the years. :)

Rather than Form-A-Gasket, I'll probably use some Permatex Silicon gasket sealer.

Thanks again!
 
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#7
OH yeah, I've used miles of it myself.. I picked up one tube for a buck at a garage sale that looks like one of those cooks frosting things.. Gotta be a lifetime supply of it in there.. :laugh: Why I don't know, cuz I never use the stuff.. I don't like the material it turns into..It's not like a rubbery plyable silicone type adhesive.. I think I just had to have the four pound tube of Permatex.. :lol:
 
#8
I pulled the pump and side case, scraped off pieces of old gasket. Sprayed the mating surfaces with some Brake Cleaner to prep it. Used Permatex High Temperature Silicon Form-A-Gasket on block and side case along with a new gasket.

Also greased up the crankshaft and pump with PErmatex White Grease as there was a bit of rust on the crankshaft and keyway. Torqued lightly per Permatex instructions. I'll give it a couple of more days to cure then put final torque on the side cover bolts and re-fill with oil. Also applied Anti sieze to all bolt threads.

Checked breather for clogs/obstructions and it's clear.
 
#9
DAMN!! :eek:hmy: It must be burning some major oil...

Permatex is junk.. Do not use it anywhere.. not (form-A-gascket) anyways.. That stuff just turns into big hard mudballs that breaks off..
I dont know what kind of Permatex you have used recently, but I use Ultra Grey for everything and it never leaks, as long as you clean both surfaces good and free of oil, it works flawlessly. I wont use anything else, infact, I almost use it every day at work and on side jobs at home. I seal oil pans, trans pans(Chrysler FWD transmission pans for example will ONLY seal perfectly with RTV, if you use a gasket of any type, they will leak), bearing flanges, differential covers, transfer cases, ect ect. I cant speak for the regular blue or red rtv's except for ultra red(or orange and also ultra copper) as I use those for sealing high temp stuff like my exhaust flanges and gaskets on my snowmobiles and even some various automotive applications... http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...gid_High-Torque_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm
 
#10
Permatex

I also use Permatex frequently. Wouldn't entertain installing an oil pan on an automotive build without gasket sealer.

Hope it does the trick on the Tecumseh!
 
#12
Yeah, Ive had a few Ive opened up over the years that were probably just sitting around too long...I can relate to orange brown mud :laugh: I thought the same thing the few times i've ran into that.
 
#14
I dont know what kind of Permatex you have used recently, but I use Ultra Grey for everything and it never leaks, as long as you clean both surfaces good and free of oil, it works flawlessly. I wont use anything else, infact, I almost use it every day at work and on side jobs at home. I seal oil pans, trans pans(Chrysler FWD transmission pans for example will ONLY seal perfectly with RTV, if you use a gasket of any type, they will leak), bearing flanges, differential covers, transfer cases, ect ect. I cant speak for the regular blue or red rtv's except for ultra red(or orange and also ultra copper) as I use those for sealing high temp stuff like my exhaust flanges and gaskets on my snowmobiles and even some various automotive applications... http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...gid_High-Torque_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm
I've got a project going for my car, the 1.6L 4 banger is out for a short block rebuild - spun a rod bearing.

I'll pick up some the the Ultra Grey for the Oil Pan and Valve cover install. Looks like good stuff.
 
#16
Filled it up today with good expectations. Good news is the side cover seal doesn't leak. Bad news is it's still spewing oil. Not sure last time if the gasked leaked or not, probably did. But this time it's just the governor shaft hole.

Dang it!!! :smile:

I haven't done the examination yet, washed up the Puma 200 trail bike so it's clean enough to want to touch. Covered in mud since late December when the rear tire went flat on a ride. Have another tire and think I'll install it today.

Anyway, if the governor output shaft has enough round protruding from the side case, I'll rig up a washer and o-ring to seal it up. If not, then probably just order up a side case - I may just order a case anyway if they are too expensive - may be more cost effective than engineering a home fix.





After 10-15 minutes of run time:

 
#18
Hey Dual-500 I got to ask are you prior military? Because use of IPB brought back memories of my service in the Navy.
Of course: "IPB" "Good to go" - that stuff stays with you forever. Former California Air National Guard, full time Air Technician in the 144 CAMS Fresno: F-4 WCS AFSC 32231P Weapons Control Systems Mechanic, then F-16 AIS, AFSC 45155 Integrated Avionics Technician. From there, on to General Dynamics Fort Worth Division. Started as a Field Service Engineer and now we are Lockheed Martin and I work in Mechanical Project Engineering.

I hope they were good memories of your prior service - mine are. :thumbsup:

IPB - Illustrated Parts Breakdown
GOOD TO GO - No Explanation Needed
CAMS - Consolidated Aircraft Maintenance Squadron
WCS - Weapons Control Systems (Same as Fire Control Systems)
AFSC - Air Force Specialty Code (Job Classification)
AIS - Avionics Intermediate Shop (Intermediate/Component Level Maintenance or Back Shop Maintenance Performed at the Air Base Level - not Depot)
 
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#20
^ Dang 4 different models and many sub blocks. I only worked F-4D's and F-16 A/B block 15 ADF with 8 1/2 years of service.

But, as a contractor F-16 A/B/C/D blocks 10-52, F-22 & now F-35! :eek:
 
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