Tecumseh muffler removal help

manchester1

manchester1

#1
#1
Trying to get this muffler off. Is the nut reverse threads? This has been soaking for months and I still can't get it off. Any help appreciated. Thank you.
 
RideSF

RideSF

Member
#5
#5
A pipe wrench with an added long piece of pipe over the pipe wrench handle attached for leverage.


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capguncowboy

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#6
#6
I've used a flathead screw driver and a hammer on the exhaust nut with good success, though i did crack one once. After that is loosened, heat normally does the trick to loosen the angled adapter
 
manchester1

manchester1

#7
#7
capguncowboy said:
I've used a flathead screw driver and a hammer on the exhaust nut with good success, though i did crack one once. After that is loosened, heat normally does the trick to loosen the angled adapter
Click to expand...
I was beating on the nut with a screw driver and hammer but was getting scared of breaking it.:laugh:
 
electrathon

electrathon

#8
#8
The handle on the screwdriver is absorbing the energy of the impact. Use a punch. Heat the aluminum with a propane torch around the exhaust, do not heat the exhaust. Once it starts to move wiggle it tighter and looser till it releases, you may have to use a pipe wrench.
 
ogygopsis

ogygopsis

#11
#11
Karen, If all else fails....drill as large of a hole as you can in one of the flat surfaces of the lock nut. Then take a sharp cold chisel and split the lock nut and remove it. Turn the motor on its side so that the exhaust is pointing up toward the ceiling. Then lightly heat the angled pipe and melt some bees wax on it allowing it to penetrate into the threads. Once it cools you can use as big of a pipe wrench as will fit on the angled part of the pipe and work it back and forth. I've used this trick on some of the worst rusted nuts and it's worked every time. Let me know how you make out. Ogy
 
manchester1

manchester1

#14
#14
@notsomini I think your right about that Karl, no threads left on the nut.:no: I'm going to try what Olgy said. [MENTION=5]ogygopsis[/MENTION]. Thank you everybody.
 
FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#15
#15
Okay I will give you the way I would do it with zero destruction.

Put it in the oven... I know, OMG, but I have one in my shop.... Heat the entire assembly as hot as the oven will get. Slide it out with a pair of welding gloves and big pliers or anything else to grab it. Immediately take a candle like you would use in a table setting. You know the long ones. Stick it to the exhaust pipe but keep it off the block. It will suck the heat out of the exhaust pipe so fast that you should hear it pop loose. Then just thread it out. The key is to heat the entire assembly. That's the hard part. I saw this done with 4 rosebud torches on a track hoe hub and a double handful of candles applied right in the center of the hub after it was as hot as they could get it. It went POP and the outer ring feel off in the floor.

I bought a used oven for the shop many years ago after stinking the house up curing some wrinkle painted valve covers... Took days for the smell to go away... I still offer to use the oven to heat things or cure paint but I get this funny look....


Doug
 
mini one

mini one

#16
#16
:thumbs: x2 on the "fire wrench" & candle idea, wish I tried it years ago. I had the same angled muffler fitting corroded in a H50 block and just sprayed it for 10-12 months every time I went by it with d40/liquid wrench etc... and kept tapping it with a drift and no luck.

So I figured I would try that old candle trick with another old school combo that an old farmer who never bought wd-40 told me years ago: before heating it and hitting it with a candle you mix up Automatic Trans Fluid mixed with acetone and soak it anyway you can for a while (I did a week with the whole engine tipped sideways so the head was submerged in the ATF/acetone mix). Once I heated the area around the fitting for a few minutes I put a cheater pipe on the pipe wrench and figured if I break the block, I brake it, I couldn't use the engine with the fitting pointing straight up anyway, and the fitting turned out of the exhaust port. (the engine was bolted to a frame for more leverage).

Disclaimer: Your results may vary. Do ALL of these steps outside away from everything the entire time, mixing these things together may have been done successfully for years but you don't want to take a chance, especially when you heat up that treated block outside. You might even not have to heat it up at all. I think mine would've come apart without the torch. I'm not a chemist but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last week...
 
electrathon

electrathon

#19
#19
I am betting that the fitting is not all that stuck. Stuck is a relative term, the pipe fitting is still intact, has a big wall thickness and has enough there to get a pipe wrench on it. The lock ring is not even an issue, loosen the fitting and the lock ring goes with it. When things are stuck you start with minor force and ramp up as you progress. Heat, penetrating oil (blaster is my favorite, kroll is good too) and properly applied force will get that off quickly.
 
Outlaw Ace

Outlaw Ace

#20
#20
I broke the port not knowing any of these tricks, patience and research is your friend. Anything but horsing it, I proved that does not work on a good H50 I could have gotten good $ for.
 
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