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Try placing an ad here........ Vintage Snowmobiles Classifieds on VintageSleds.com These vintage snowmobile guys will know what your looking for.

Anything new?

Manuals http://www.vintagesnow.com/Engine_manuals_files/1971_ccw_290_sm.pdf http://www.vintagesnow.com/Engine_manuals_files/1972_ccw_290_pm.pdf

What's the serial number starts with? 3000000 4000000 500000

That really looks nice............

I can help you with an engine for this. Tecumseh or a Briggs.

Lots of them on Minneapolis craigs list...............

If I understand what your talking about. Get a hot plate and warm up some water, near boiling. Soften up the tube and push them on. Be carefully, they break easily. There is a fine line between to soft and to hard to press into place. Good luck.

Skol Vikings.......... I think it's going to be a long season:doah:

I know nothing about the Doodle bugs. However, couldn't another engine be used? Tecumseh or Briggs of the appropriate size.....

Go for it......... Something to play with for awhile. :thumbsup:

Thanks......... Much appreciated.

I see a 8C....... What color or number should the cover have. I'll go dig thru the pile and see if it's out there. As I mention on another post this engine is from an estate of a gentleman who repaired small engines. Thanks for the help.

What model/HP Briggs is this? All I see is the sticker on the carb side of shroud and can't read it. Runs, could run better with a carb cleaning.

My bad......... It does say H50 on tag.

About a year ago, we cleaned out an estate of a gentleman who repaired small engines, took about 30 engines. So little by little I've been getting them running. So I dug another engine out from under the tarp. After a leak down test (50%), pulled the head off and lapped the valves, now have a...

48 Hp stock.... In the snowmobile chassis it will do close to 80-90 MPH depending on the gearing.

Hello; Good to see someone from my neck of woods on here. Show me a picture and I'll bring some tools by and help remove that clutch. Curly...

If its as he says......... Fair enough.

Is the switch metal (Ground it the frame or common ground)? Got an Ohm meter? With the switch in the off position, should be continuity between the M and the switch. In the on position, should be open (no continuity) between the M and the switch. In the start position, should be continunity...