Adjusting idle DOWN on greyhound 6.5 clone

[dill_hole]

Hi guys. I've tried to find an answer to this but it isn't happening.

HF 6.5 clone. Turning idle screw doesn't do anything. The black lever on the carb that presses against the idle screw doesn't contact the screw at idle. Or if you like, the governor rod is holding the carb open at idle.

If I reach behind the carb and press the black plastic lever against the idle screw, it will idle down and run well at that idle until I release the lever.

I have a max-torque clutch installed. It is necessary to hold the rollbar or the brake when starting so the kart doesn't walk away.

I do have slack in the throttle spring that goes from the throttle lever to the governor underneath the tank.

I have the same situation on another HF 6.5 clone so I do not believe it is a defect in this particular engine on the kart.

Please help and thank you

 

[danc9]

dill,

a few things to look at...first, have you loosened the nut that the throttle pivots on? If the nut is tight it can cause the lever to not return all the way. Second, you may want to look into adding a small return spring to assist the idle down.


DAN

 

[joekd]

My newest clone was the same way, it would never idle all the way down unless I pressed the lever all the way by hand (even after loosening the top nut) so I had to add a second spring, once that was in place it worked fine

 

[dill_hole]

Thank you for the replies. Sorry it took me so long to get back.

Here is what I have done to modify the lever. Remove all the crap holding it on and underneath it and throw it away. But one nylon spacer that will slide over the base of the lever mount and cut it so it sets just above the shoulder. Buy a flanged nylon spacer that fits over the threads and cut it down so that it provides just a little play for the lever to pivot. Put a fender washer and a nyloc on. Add a return spring from the lever to the muffler as a backup.

What I probably didn't make clear is that the spring that activates the throttle, the one that goes from the throttle lever under the gas tank and I expect to the governor arm is SLACK when the lever is at idle. That eliminates the throttle lever from the equation.

Thanks again for your help!

 

[supernova]

Thank you for the replies. Sorry it took me so long to get back.

Here is what I have done to modify the lever. Remove all the crap holding it on and underneath it and throw it away. But one nylon spacer that will slide over the base of the lever mount and cut it so it sets just above the shoulder. Buy a flanged nylon spacer that fits over the threads and cut it down so that it provides just a little play for the lever to pivot. Put a fender washer and a nyloc on. Add a return spring from the lever to the muffler as a backup.

What I probably didn't make clear is that the spring that activates the throttle, the one that goes from the throttle lever under the gas tank and I expect to the governor arm is SLACK when the lever is at idle. That eliminates the throttle lever from the equation.

Thanks again for your help!

The spring of which you speak is the connection between the governor arm and twist grip and is supposed to be slack at start-up and idle on a governed engine. It only sees tension momentarily at startup and then only under acceleration. Take it out of the picture and you bypass the governor. I'd have to see pics but really a return spring alone would have solved the problem. I did remove the nylock nut and put some nice washers stacked in such a way it allows free movement then used two 10mm nuts and locked them together. My throttle arm has no slop like it would had I simply loosened the nylock fastener. Little tricks you learn along the way, mine are stock governed engines that perform far better than most due to some adjusting.:thumbsup:

 

[dill_hole]

supernova,
Thanks for the reply. "... a return spring alone would have solved the problem." Yet the problem remains. I used the bushing because the throttle arm the chinese use has a huge hole that makes the lever slide and pivot instead of just pivoting. Glad you found another solution.

"Take it out of the picture and you bypass the governor. " I'm not sure what you mean here. The governor functions fine without that spring. My understanding is that spring allows us to overcome the governor at idle (accelerate) while still allowing the governor to prevent over revving of the engine.

This is the only engine I have ever worked on where the idle speed screw doesn't do anything. The governor rod is holding the carb open at idle when it should not be. This creates a gap between the idle adjustment screw and the wing on the carb that it is supposed to press against.

I'm going to pull the gas tank and see what I can see. I was hoping someone had been under there and could point me in a direction.

Thank you to everyone for your assistance!

 

[Falcone]

I've had the same problem with all the ohv's i've bought recently. Two used GX160's and two new gx200 clones. The throttle is always half open, no matter what. This is what I did. All you need to do is add another spring to the gouvernor arm,to pull it all the way back, making the throttle close.


this is what you do, crappy pic, but you'll get the idea, take off the tank (ignore my linkages, they have been changed big time)

after

 

[Baseballdude2915]

I found the stock linkage WAY too troublesome. Cut it all off.

Run a cable back there, drill a hole in the plate by the butterfly valve for the cable to go through, but not the hose. I hooked the cable up to the butterfly valve and then attached a return spring to bolt. The bolt too was drilled into the plate and locked in with a nut. Works like a champ, no governor, and idle adjustment is simple.

 

[RobK]

I found that I couldn't lower the idle enough to keep the clutch from trying to engage. It's a ungoverned clone. If I lowered the idle, it stalled. If I kept it from stalling the clutch grabbed. The fix was a new, higher rpm garter spring on the clutch. Worked like an absolute charm. Starts right up and idles fine with no clutch grabbiness.

 

[dill_hole]

Thank you everyone!

Falcone, I think that is the first thing I will try. I'm ignoring your linkage but I don't see a connection to it for you throttle. Are you running throttle directly off your carb?

RobK, I've contacted mfg. Hope they have a higher rpm garter spring.

Baseballdude, As Red Foreman would say, kids are dumbasses. I don't think I want to remove the governor just yet.

 

[dill_hole]

FIXED! Well, at least the idle is done.

Here is what I found. I played with the angle of the governor lever on where it attaches to the engine. That seemed to get the idle down a bit. I wish I could say exactly where I ended up but there aren't any reference points. I believe what I ended up doing was, 1)loosed pinch bolt 2) push governor arm all the way forward 3) tighten pinch bolt. It was obvious when I didn't have it in the right place as when I started it, the engine would over-rev.

After that, I found that the throttle spring (from the throttle lever to the governor lever was now under tension at idle. I was able to lengthen the spring until there was a little slack in it with the engine idling and VOILA! We have adjustable idle.

Sweeet. I hope that helps someone else out.

Kids gave very positive feedback on how the throttle works now. Until the front wheel bearings puked their balls. Alas, back to working on old toys.

 

[Oldschool]

FIXED! Well, at least the idle is done.

Here is what I found. I played with the angle of the governor lever on where it attaches to the engine. That seemed to get the idle down a bit. I wish I could say exactly where I ended up but there aren't any reference points. I believe what I ended up doing was, 1)loosed pinch bolt 2) push governor arm all the way forward 3) tighten pinch bolt. It was obvious when I didn't have it in the right place as when I started it, the engine would over-rev.

After that, I found that the throttle spring (from the throttle lever to the governor lever was now under tension at idle. I was able to lengthen the spring until there was a little slack in it with the engine idling and VOILA! We have adjustable idle.

Sweeet. I hope that helps someone else out.

Kids gave very positive feedback on how the throttle works now. Until the front wheel bearings puked their balls. Alas, back to working on old toys.

Very few people here actualy go to the trouble to fix a governer problem.

As I have stated before there are 3 adjustment on the governer and you have figuered them out.

Dam good show!!!!!!:thumbsup:

As for those that perfer to remove the governer completely be warned you may blow an engine unless you keep your revs under control. Kids are not good at this.....

 

[dill_hole]

Thanks Oldschool.

One thing I might add. The engine is not as responsive now. This would be easily fixed with a heavier actuation spring as long as it allowed the governor arm to retract fully. However, I'm going to leave it as is for now. It still spins the tires and I'd prefer the kids get a few 1/2 throttle crashes under their belts before we kick it up a notch.

 

[v6steeda]

I loosened up the nut on the throttle arm because that was not returning to the full closed position. Also, I used the promodraceparts kit and the spring is not exactly the best choice. It needs alittle more tension to get the throttle to close instantly. Oh the idle screw has a plastic cap on it. Take that off and use a screw driver on the idle adjustment screw. Go counter clockwise untill it idles down. I bought a mini tach and mine sounds great at 1520-1600rpm.

 

[littlemotorkart]

I found that I couldn't lower the idle enough to keep the clutch from trying to engage. It's a ungoverned clone. If I lowered the idle, it stalled. If I kept it from stalling the clutch grabbed. The fix was a new, higher rpm garter spring on the clutch. Worked like an absolute charm. Starts right up and idles fine with no clutch grabbiness.

wheres the idle screw? the little one on top of the carb??

 

[mckutzy]

:freakout::freakout::freakout:

:001_huh:

First 3 posts, and all are necro posts.....